I bought a case of this in ‘98 and that first bottle majored on mouth-puckering acidity; time has worked a little magic. Medium ruby red. The nose is a mix sweet red cherry and not too heavy plum. Nicely textured, this is elegant, again nicely plummy red fruit with very good but certainly not overstated acidity. The finish is understated and interesting. The table finished this bottle in double-quick time! There’s lots of life left in these bottles.
Bourgogne Rouge
2004 Leroy Bourgogne Rouge
Medium-pale colour – surprisingly pale considering it contains (lots of) Grand Cru juice. The nose is fantasticly penetrating and floral, eventually turning very smoky from a high percentage of stems. The palate is lithe and athletic, perhaps a little thin for the forward acidity. I really expected more intensity given the provenance of this wine. A fantastic nose, in the end it really reminded me of Dujac’s ‘95 Clos de la Roche, but for this bottle the palate has a lot of catching up to do. The nose compelled me to buy a couple of bottles but I’m still not convinced of the value.
1998 Leroy (Maison) Bourgogne Rouge
Medium ruby-red – still some cherry at the rim. The nose is a little unusual to start – freshly struck matches – not uncommon in whites, but rather rarer in reds. Slowly this dissipates to reveal sweet, meaty fruit of some depth. Very good texture and reasonable concentration, but the overall impression is mainly one of tartness coupled to medium length. None of the astringent tannins of the vintage but could still be better.
1999 Barthod Ghislaine Bourgogne Rouge
Medium, medium-plus cherry red – holding its colour very well. The nose is a little tight; mainly glossy red cherry, but not very expressive. The palate is reserved yet quite sophisticated. Good acidity, some fat, a little grain to the tannin and very good concentration in the mid-palate. A wine that is currently hiding much of its wares but is clearly a very ‘above average’ bourgogne.
1996 Leroy (Maison) Bourgogne Rouge
Drunk directly after the 1999 Barthod Bourgogne Rouge. Medium ruby red. The nose is sweet red cherry with just a little extra secondary dimension. I remember that this was quite acidic on release but has padded out beautifully – if anything it’s now just a little fat. There is tasty fruit and a nice finish. Doesn’t have the extra dimension of a good villages, but a very nice wine in it’s own right – there’s no rush to drink these.