Full and forward notes that offer some minerality. Nicely textured; intense and complex – fun, fun, fun. I like this a lot.
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2009
2009 Mischief and Mayhem Meursault Les Genevrières
Toasted bread and yellow fruit aromas that tend towards the savoury. In the mouth this holds your interest with a good mineral undertow; perfectly balanced there are flavours of fruit and more stones but they only appear in the mid-palate. Long and lingering, the last drops in the glass offering classic Meursault aromas. Super.
2009 Boillot Jean-Marc Puligny-Montrachet
The nose is relatively tight; very understated high toned flowers, perhaps pear-drops. This is surprisingly fresh and mineral for a 2009 – too much so? – certainly it’s a little austere. The flavour does expand in the mid-palate, and it’s clearly quite fresh but I’m not entirely convinced this is a great wine for the price – this is relatively expensive for a villages. The last part of the mid-palate and finish has plenty of extract and flavour – I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt but I’d only buy at a much better price.
2009 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet Sous Le Puits
2009 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles
2009 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet Le Caillerets
The nose has more width than depth, but the whole of that width has notable intensity. Likewise in the mouth this seems super-wide; the texture is just a hint plush and the mineral flavour is hard to contain in your mouth as the intensity grows. Flavour very impressively clings to the side of your mouth. Grand Cru standard…
2009 Mischief and Mayhem Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Bottled in July 2010, this wine is blend of grapes from Aloxe, Côte Chalonaise, Hautes Côtes de Nuits and Brochon. A bright and friendly red cherry nose jumps from the glass to greet you – it’s almost cordial. Uncommon weight and concentration for a Bourgogne, the ripe fruit is edged with a hint of tannin – all things you hardly find in a Bourgogne.
2009 Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite different to yesterday’s M&P Rion; narrow, yet it plumbs impressive depth; redder with a note of cherry stones – blind, you would be unlikely to pick this as a 2009. In the mouth this has some fat, but there’s also a beautiful line of acidity that runs through the core of the wine. The crystalline fruit seems equally bright and quite fleet of foot too – nothing vaguely ponderous here. Quite long on a fading mineral note. Considering he’s such a late picker I have no idea how Laurent delivers such minerality in a vintage like 2009, but chapeau! Excellent wine that is far from the vintage stereotype.
2009 Rion Michele & Patrice Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a heavy musky fruit of impressive depth and quite some layers. Lovely texture that has just a hint of fat followed by a growing intensity of flavour – the intensity is turned-up by having understated but rather good acidity – given three or four years and the shrinking of the fruit’s puppy-fat and this could have just about perfect balance. The last part of the mid-palate, heading into the finish shows a good whack of extract and just a hint of bitterness in the finish, a very good length of finish. Full, frank and yet cuddly today, this has everything to deliver a compelling performance, but I expect that performance is the best part of 15 years away…