Medium-plus colour. Ooh, depth, silky fruit and hints of violets. The texture starts with silk but quickly changes as the ripe tannin shows its face. Plenty of fruit and some minerality in the mid-palate too. Very good length. Clearly this is significantly above the standard suggested by the label, but given the contents of the bottle that’s surely no surprise. Another ‘Bourgogne’ that begs time to mature…
2009
2009 Pataille Sylvain Bourgogne Le Chapitre
Medium-plus colour. The nose is hard to love at the start – it seems more like cola than wine – with time the cola slowly transforms to a musky, smoky, creamy red-black, almost blue fruit. Good concentration, plenty of freshness too. This wine is almost textured from the tannin but there’s hardly any astringency. Surprisingly (after the nose) this is far from the easy and sweet vernacular of 2009, it is a serious wine and I wouldn’t touch another for at least three years.
2009 Potel Nicolas Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes
A little green mint-leaf twists through the red fruit – it’s not a particularly ripe nose, even before you factor-in the 2009 vintage, but there’s nothing off-putting. In the mouth there is lots that is unripe, sone greenness to the flavours and although there’s not a lot of tannin, it has some astringency attached. Drinkable, but a long way from interesting…
2009 Bellene Bourgogne Rouge 'Maison Dieu' Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The mose has a hint of sweet, smoky, musky red fruits; it pulls you in for a sniff and then an exclamaition of ahhhh… In the mouth this is really round, sweet fruit, decent underlying acidity and even a hint of tannin. This is all puppy-fat today but I perceive steel below the surface. I would have drunk a little more but everyone-else liked it so much that I didn’t get the chance…
2009 Giroud Camille Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows quite some powdery aspects but with flashes of fresh raspberry fruit, occasional barrel-notes too. In the mouth there is a really nice balance of fruit, acidity and concentration – a little CO2 exacerbates the tannin making it a little raspy and rustic to start with – you need an hour-plus for the gas to fade – soon it becomes smooth and the extra depth of fruit flavour then comes to the fore. The flavours are long, with some fruit mouth-watering fruit elements but majors on a mineral, stony fruit. A wine to wait for.
2009 Giroud Camille Corton
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is at first reticent but the array of pretty red and black fruits is certainly enticing. Eventually there’s a more savoury soil note which isn’t so nice – I hope that’s just a phase. Silky entry, with good freshness. There is a wiry strength to this, linear until the flavours grow in the mid-palate then decay in a subtle but long finish. Overall this has quite a mineral personality and largely submerged tannins – but it’s certainly less involving than the 2008 was at this time last year. A good wine but with a question-mark over the aromatics…(?)
2009 Michelot Alain Nuits St.Georges Champs-Perdrix
The nose is quite different to what I remember of the Chaignots – different vines so a good thing – certainly higher toned though perhaps a little more diffuse because of that. This is quite full, with plenty of tannin – yet the fruit comes through very well indeed – super-engaging personality. I think this excellent.