Medium colour. Fermented and then aged 10-12 months in casks. The nose is clearly more mineral. In the mouth there’s a smooth almost waxy texture – there quite some density and extract here. Just enough acidity to balance and shepherd you into a good finish. Lots of wine here – quite impressive.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is darkly-fruited, a little mineral and spicy – it almost smells tannic – very interesting and open, time makes it a little creamier and just a shade redder. Despite ’smelling’ tannic, the considerable structure is almost entirely hidden under a smooth, slightly linear but intense dark fruit. There is an impressive extra dimension of faintly creamy, dark fruit that forms a reprise in the finish. Today it’s far from an elegant pinot – you will have to wait for that – but it is an exciting and rumbustious mouth-full of Morey – serious fun, in a glass.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The first vintage from Arnaud Mortet with some help in the background during harvesting from Claire Forestier. This seems a different interpretation versus what follows, but I add the caveat that this is also the youngest wine so showing the most young, fat fruit. Wide aromas of mainly dark shaded fruit and a faint hint at something volatile – at this stage, more fruit-forward than other vintages. This fills your mouth with plenty of fruity dimension and understated though balanced acidity. The almost saline, mineral quality of the other vintages starts on a much lower register though eventually begins to make its mark on the finish. The tannin seems very polished though this is the only wine here to show any oak texture on the good finish.
Medium colour. High tones, with pretty red berry and cherry fruit – it’s really lovely. The palate is not quite how I remember it; the texture is reasonably silky with just an edge of fat, but the acidity is much more in the ascendant than when I first had it – it’s also quite tart. Mouth-watering length, not surprisingly, but with a sneaky creamy edge. The fruit on the nose remains super. I would not touch another of these for at least 3 years as I does remind me of the ‘96 Leroy bourgogne at the same stage, and that’s a beauty now!
A relatively rare ‘Diam’ cork-amalgum seal. Medium, medium-plus colour. A nice, forward blend of red and black cherry that with swirling concentrates more on the red – the last drops are super and redcurranty. A surprising amount of fat for the appellation, relatively fine tannin and good acidity. In the mid-palate I have the impression of some savoury flavour that goes into a decent finish. Very superior Bourgogne and perfect for pouring now. Excellent.
Wide with a forward black-cherry note, even a hint of Sage – slowly a beautiful clear note of fruit runs through the middle – very precocious, very impressive. Fine tannin with good acidity that forms the basis of a lovely mouth-watering finish – and there’s even a little reprise after a minute. Wide on the palate with fruit that’s almost as good as nose. A really super wine that had the density and presence to walk all over the ‘95 Pomerol (Lagrange) that preceded it.
Pale to medium yellow. The nose is just a little tight, ripe but tight. In the mouth there’s width, density and a very sneaky extra dimension in the mid-palate – it’s very impressive. What’s less impressive is an apparent lack of energy – I think it really needs a bit more acidity. Very nice, but no wow.
A whiff of SO2 defines the first interaction – it’s even still there after about 20 minutes in the glass but on a much lower level. The fading of the sulfur reveals a width of aromas and some very pretty higher tones and eventually a little caramel. For the vintage there’s very decent acidity and a really beautiful width of creamy, dreamy ripe fruit – it seems to go on and on. No fireworks – if anything it’s a little tight – but it’s a very, very competent demonstration of a grand cru.
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