2005

2005 Bourée Pierre Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

A little more than medium colour. The nose is awash with iron-infused soil, milder stem smoke and minerals – it’s very, very nice. Medium bodied, with very good fruit that almost completely obscures the tannins. Depth and interest here despite it showing far from all it has. Good length. 2005 is clearly the perfect to vintage to buy from a producer with such a traditional approach – it may never be the greatest of 2005’s, but is a great alternative to (for instance) a Dujac from other vintages and it will surely last and last if that’s your wish. Very tasty.

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2005 Giroud Camille Volnay Taillepieds

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The colour is only a little more intense. The nose, however, is much more open – at least at the top-end with red fruit liqueur – below is a begrudging concentration of tight red notes, but there are occasional flashes of brilliantly pure red cherry. In the mouth this is plush, rather than plump – the still understated yet better balancing acidity seems to make the difference – much finer tannin than the 2006 and super intensity with several dimensions in the mid-palate. This shows a similar length to the 2006 but the oak has faded and you have a largely fruit-driven impression. If the 2006 is a fine 1er, then this vintage is by comparison a grand cru – what a shame that when I bought the last bottles at the domaine, there were only 3… – A superb Volnay.

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2005 Guillemot Pierre Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Serpentières

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium plus colour. The nose needs about 1 hour before it starts to become interesting; always clean but initially inconsequential, it gradually acquires gravitas with quality red fruit over a faint base of coffee. The palate starts quite roughly – carbon dioxide is to blame. Like-wise an hour from opening it is velvety, with plenty of kind tannin and good forward acidity. It is narrow in the mid-palate and narrows further into the finish. I would suggest this as being rather tight. From being uncouth and ’short’ in the first 30 minutes to becoming ever-more engaging, this wine slowly won me over. Probably 80/100 if freshly opened at a big tasting, 90 if you are prepared to sit, wait and negotiate. I’d leave remaining bottles at least 6-8 years.

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2005 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour, edged with purple. High-toned, and initially slightly diffuse and alcoholic but the aromas show a great depth of brooding fruit. Absolutely mouth-filling and complex. Very. very long with a mineral vein – superbly long – fantastic.

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2005 Latour Louis Aloxe-Corton Les Chaillots

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium colour. Limited high tones but decent depth of sugary red fruit. Medium density, slightly astringent but very fine tannin plus a super expansion of fruit in the mid-palate. This is surprisingly long, though much of that flavour is slightly bitter oak-juice. It’s far from seamless but it’s ebulliant delivery has made a friend of me.

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2005 Clos de Tart Clos de Tart

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Deep colour. Very tight aromas with dark, creamily oaked fruit notes at the core, slowly releasing raspberry notes. A little prickly carbon dioxide then tongue saturating flavours of coffee and roast nuts. Lots of structure, but balance too. As it loses the CO2 it becomes close to a complete wine.

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2005 Rapet Père et Fils Pernand Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose only gives hints of interest in the first minutes, but gradually offers up a beautiful mix of raspberry and violets with occasional traces of caramel, but these pretty aromas come and go. A very soft entry – maybe just a little too soft – but smooth tannin and decent acidity. The flavour gently builds into the mid-palate and decays just as gently. In the middle the fruit is clean, has reasonable depth and some extra creamy dimension. So I’m not sure about this – lovely aromatics and very pretty fruit, but I felt it somehow just a little too soft.

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2005 Rion Daniel Nuits St.Georges Les Grandes Vignes

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus young colour. Some oak, but also very pretty fruit with a faintly spicy width. Good concentration, the intensity builds aided by super acidity and equally super mouth-watering length. Very good.

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2005 Thomas-Moillard Pommard Epenots

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose retains a consistently understated mix of the mineral, plus dark, deep red fruit. In the mouth it’s a powerful blend of intense fruit that peaks in the mid-palate, decaying with a creamy edge, and showing just enough tannin to poke it’s faint astringency through the blanket of fruit extract – slightly exacerbated by hint of carbon dioxide. The finish is very understated, but lingering and entirely made up of non-barrel elements – you can’t say that for many. Not the ultimate in smooth sophistication that many 2005’s can display, but at a good price, this would be an easy rebuy recommendation. Built with the long-term in mind, but today (at least) relatively approachable.

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