2005

2005 Lécheneaut (Philippe et Vincent) Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A nice, bright medium-plus colour. The nose shows plenty of spicy, deep-toned oak and eventually higher toned, slightly diffuse red fruit. The palate is less dense than the best 05 bourgognes and certainly less sweet/ripe than the majority, but still with a decent intensity, if lots of oak flavour. Actually pretty good with food, less interesting without. Cheaper, but short of the quality of last week’s Jayer-Gilles

2005 Comtes Lafon Volnay Champans

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Dark fruits, a little oak and floral tones – violets on the nose. Meatier tannins and good dry extract too though the tannins aren’t quite covered. The length is very impressive, dark and interesting.

2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Chambertin

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A deep and initially tight nose slowly evolves higher-toned and precise red fruits. Very good acidity and really palate staining flavours – very, very impressive – there’s a body of tannin that is deftly submerged by the fruit. The finish is excellent, even in this company.

2005 Giroud Camille Chapelle-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A wide and interesting red and black fruit mix on the nose. Lithe and athletic with plenty of structure but matched to very nice fruit. Tannic for sure, but excellent.

2005 Romanée-Conti Richebourg

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A wide nose – not so deep and focused as the Vivant, but rather fine and edged with higher-tones and caramel. After 30 minutes there is more definition and focus with a lovely floral aspect. On the palate the effect is very specific; it stains your tongue with complex flavours – but without apparent weight – now that’s impressive. Faintly furry tannin, super-wide and beautifully textured. I don’t think this wine is showing all it has, but what it does show is completely stunning – a wow wine.

2005 Lejeune Bourgogne

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little backward yet at its base there’s sweet red fruit – almost jammy – and some musky-floral notes, the last drops are fine and red though. The palate has good concentration and smooth acidity that leaks darker, ripe fruit flavours into the finish and there’s some well-submerged tannin. In any other vintage this would be a super bourgogne, in 2005 it’s only ‘above average’. I find it’s just missing a little zing and zest, but I’ve had other Lejeune Bourgognes that turn out very well so I would say that despite it being not totally engaging today, this could get into quite a nice place in another 3-5 years. I think the odds are easily in my favour if I put a few in the cellar, if only for their handy 50cl size.

2005 Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du Milieu

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Dark aromatics that are a little wilder-fruited than the Champans and again with a higher-toned floral background. Mineral concentration – and plenty of it! Lots of grainy tannin and a river of length. Very impressive wine.

2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Latricières-Chambertin

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Deep aromas edged with a little dark oak. Some spritz, linear and perhaps not as fat as some but linear and muscular and shows excellent length.

2005 Groffier Robert - Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. A wide, toffee-inflected nose that’s sweet. The palate is just a little less fresh than many, but it’s concentrated and savoury. The finish, versus what’s gone before, is rather modest. In isolation this is a very nice wine, in the context of the other bottles tonight it is on the second level.

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