1998

1998 Guyon Antonin Corton Clos du Roy

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. When cold, this is wide and fresh with good purity. As it warms there is a touch of herb and the fruit has a more jammy edge. The tannin seems a little more prevalent when cold, linear, expanding into a very long finish. Warmer, it is fatter, the tannin sits better and the acidity is just right. Not a great grand cru, but it’s tasty and almost good value.

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on March 31, 2006 #asides

Deep ruby-coloured. High tones over a glossy base, plus some meaty and faintly herbal notes – great at the start, interesting but not great at the end. Depth, freshness and density, plenty of tannin, but only faintly astringent. Very nice fruit and length, needs at least another 3 or 4 years.

1998 Guyon Antonin (Hyppolite Thevenot) Corton Clos du Roy

By on March 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. When cold, this is wide and fresh with good purity. As it warms there is a touch of herb and the fruit has a more jammy edge. The tannin seems a little more prevalent when cold, linear, expanding into a very long finish. Warmer, it is fatter, the tannin sits better and the acidity is just right. Not a great grand cru, but it’s tasty and almost good value.

1998 Latour Henri Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

The back label suggests that this should be reaching it’s peak 3-5 years from the vintage – hopefully it’s not past its peak! Medium-plus ruby-red colour – looks very purposeful. The nose is deep, a little meaty, sugar coated fruit and short-lived oak-toast. The palate is clean and precise with plenty of acidity and fruit that’s starting to show some maturity. No really dense fruit here so it’s better with food, but very svelte tannins for a 98. Super price at ~12 Euro.

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Genevrières

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Golden. The nose is understated, sweet with faint vanilla but quite sophisticated, some depth too. The palate is nicely fresh also very understated too. The acidity is good and there seems to be good concentration – but of what? – what’s missing is a little flavour. Actually there’s suddenly a bit of a burst on the mid-palate and reasonable and quite flavourful length too. So, a surprisingly mineral Genevrières – I normally think of it as more sumptuous – quite nice, and worth buying if you get a good price.

1998 Dauvissat Jean Chablis Fourchaume

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale golden. There’s a hint of the oxidative on first sniff, but it’s soon gone, replaced by honeyed, waxy aspects and faint pineapple, nice high tones with plenty of width. In your mouth the first impression is a little dilute but the wine expands with a real kick at the back, even hinting at caramel. Good wine that gets ever better with time in the glass, definitely 1er cru quality.

1998 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts with lots of char effects and cigarette ash – not particularly appealing. Given time (needs 2 hours) the fruit becomes purer and coffee edged – plums and macerated red cherry. Very nicely textured with good acidity and high-toned fruit, the tannins have some grain if you chew long enough. The finish has an edge of licorice with medium-plus length for the cru. Thirty minutes of air is all that’s needed for this to show very well.

1998 Roty Joseph Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

A bright medium colour, somewhere between cherry and ruby-red. To start, the nose is an absorbing and deep mix of faint mushroom, absorbed creamy oak and a sweet, almost impenetrably deep, musky fruit. Good acidity, if perhaps a tad tart, and a real kick of intensity in the mid-palate onwards. No rough or astringent tannins here, just a very above average finish.

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