A beautiful ruby colour when it catches the sun. Roasted raspberry nose, just a trace of spice too. Neither the concentration nor tannin of Grivot’s 1995 VR Bossières, but this is very smooth with medium concentrated fruit. The palate was also very dry – but became more friendly with time. Almost good today, but I think much better in 2 or 3 years time.
1997
1997 Laurent Dominique Vosne-Romanée
No mention on the label, but the cork has V.V. embossed on the side – so we’ll assume vieille vignes. Medium-plus ruby colour with just a sign of maturity at the lighter rim. The nose has a residue of sweet toasty oak and a slightly funky note. Given some aeration the funk recedes revealing deep plummy fruit. Bursts across the palate with concentrated fruit, but harsh and prickly acidity. Medium-plus length and nice tannins. Another curate’s egg.
1997 Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Rouge
It looks like I should have bought much more Bourgogne in this year. The temperature is 33°C so I chilled this to 10°C and let the bottle gradually warm up as we sat and drank in the garden. Deep ruby colour with no signs of age. The nose is a very forward mix of red berries and cherry, leaving the glass to rest provides a little vanilla. Very smooth palate with good acidity. The fruit is again red with beautifully resolved silky tannin – can this be a bourgogne? Medium-plus length finishing with a trace of vanilla. Excellent.
1997 de Montille (Hubert) Bourgogne
A wine that never ceases to surprise me. Medium cherry red still – it could easily be from 2000. The nose speaks of Volnay, it’s soft and welcoming with smooth and primary red cherry and raspberry. Despite only 12% alcohol the palate is nicely fat with strong cherry fruit and very good acidity. Whilst the tannins are still a little astringent, they’ve lost the harsh note they had two years ago. Medium length, but frankly if this was re-labelled as 1er Cru Volnay under a négociant name (that you never heard of) you probably wouldn’t be disappointed! Forget the Bourgogne label, this is better than many village Volnays from 1999 – can you buy better Bourgogne?
1997 Potel Nicolas Volnay Vieilles Vignes
1997 Colin-Deléger Meursault
1997 Dugat-Py Bernard Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
1997 Potel Nicolas Pommard Les Arvelets
Bright, medium ruby, already a trace of brick at the rim. Nose starts with chunky oak but this disappears after about 20minutes leaving sweet, alcoholic raspberry. The palate is as wide as a motorway, very silky with good fruit. The high but well covered acidity and tannins that creep up on you. Very impressive length. You can happlily drink this now, or leave it another 5 years. Very good.
1997 Jadot Louis Beaune Les Grèves
Still cherry colour, tending to ruby at the rim. Nose is ‘full-on’ red and black cherry with top notes of raspberry. The palate is very dry, good concentrated cherry fruit and excellent acidity for the vintage. Tannin is still there if you look. Still young, but ‘forgiving’ – wait another 5 years if you can for an excellent Beaune.