1997

1997 Chézeaux Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Also from 40+ year old vines. Medium-plus ruby – just starting to brown a little at the rim. Starts with a waft of very deep and concentrated cherry, but a cedary/currant pie note gradually takes over. Fat and mouth coating, really super pure fruit, balanced acidity and absolutely the smoothest of tannin. There’s no denying the quality of the underlying material, but the woody/cedary note on the nose is also evident on the palate and is very similar in character to what I didn’t like about the 1991 Ponsot Griotte – it’s a transient thing though, as after two hours the cedary note is completely gone. There’s a super, ever changing finish, lovely wine.

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1997 Hospices de Beaune Pommard Cuvée Dames de Charité, Bouchard Père

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby, no fading. The nose is primary red and black cherry, mainly black. Excellent fat black fruity palate with prominent grainy tannins and good acidity. Medium plus length, finishing slightly creamy – an excellent example, I like this a lot – now where can I get some more!

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1997 Potel Nicolas Volnay Vieilles Vignes

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium, perhaps medium-plus ruby, but no colour development and only a little lighter at the rim. The nose shows nice raspberry but predominantly redcurrant with a little red cherry. Silky, fat palate with tannins that come through late on the finish. The acidity is almost good, helping the length somewhat. A wine I’ve tasted 3 times in the last year and each time it leaves me with the feeling I’ve wasted another bottle due to the excellent base material but very tight presentation. Will probably be very good, and I promise not to open another for at least 2 year

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1997 Mugnier J-F Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Not deeply coloured – a ruby core gently fading to brown. High red tones – slightly cooked – against a mild-toast background. Not fat, but splendid fruit which again is a little cooked with currants coming through. There’s lovely length, I really like the depth and persistence of the fruit. The tannins are still quite astringent and are coupled with good acidity. Very, very good wine. Despite the relatively light colour, I’d personally leave this another 3+ years.

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1997 Faiveley Joseph Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby colour – still looks very young. Lovely fruity nose of damson and black cherry – some coffee too – a blend of aromas to wallow in. Structured and fat, with big, still grainy tannins and plenty of acidity. Really excellent, creamy concentration. Hardly budged since last tasted 2 years ago – lovely now and has real potential to stay lovely for the next 15 years.

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1997 Clair Bruno Marsannay Les Longerois

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium ruby which seems to shine from the glass. The nose right from the start shows a beautifully deep fruit profile – red and black sweet fruits. Good, though slightly cooked, fruit on the palate – persistent too. The acidity is good with slightly grainy tannins. Great now and no problem to leave in the cellar – a bottle which was drained much too quickly(!)

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1997 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

A beautiful ruby colour when it catches the sun. Roasted raspberry nose, just a trace of spice too. Neither the concentration nor tannin of Grivot’s 1995 VR Bossières, but this is very smooth with medium concentrated fruit. The palate was also very dry – but became more friendly with time. Almost good today, but I think much better in 2 or 3 years time.

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1997 Laurent Dominique Vosne-Romanée

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

No mention on the label, but the cork has V.V. embossed on the side – so we’ll assume vieille vignes. Medium-plus ruby colour with just a sign of maturity at the lighter rim. The nose has a residue of sweet toasty oak and a slightly funky note. Given some aeration the funk recedes revealing deep plummy fruit. Bursts across the palate with concentrated fruit, but harsh and prickly acidity. Medium-plus length and nice tannins. Another curate’s egg.

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