(Magnum) Medium-plus colour. The nose is understated – actually quite tight. The palate is equally tight, the only forward aspect is the grainy astringency of the tannin, the fruit gives little away, though it’s ripe enough and shows no roast characteristics. In this format I wouldn’t be rushing to drink bottles, but I wouldn’t be searching them out either.
1997
1997 Lafarge Michel Volnay Clos des Chênes
1997 Chandon de Briailles Pernand Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses
1997 Chézeaux Griotte-Chambertin
Much more fruit on the nose (vs Drouhin’s 97), in fact it’s so deep, pure and intense, it’s unlike any other wine here. The palate is concentrated and seems to harbour more dry extract than most others. The acidity is a little bright on the finish but it’s a minor blemish on a very fine face. The most ‘un-97-like’ wine in the show.
1997 Boillot Jean-Marc Pommard Les Rugiens
1997 Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du Milieu
(Magnum) The nose is mainly about understated black cherry – but few ’97’s have such quality of fruit. The first impression on the palate is the tannin – there’s plenty – but not too astringent and forecasting a long life. The ample concentration lingers on a fine finish. More than enough balance here, this is one of the most successful 97’s and firmly recommended.
1997 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
1997 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
1997 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus
The nose is reasonably fresh and quite wide. In this company the palate is very fresh yet still appears balanced. The fruit is tight yet ripe, but is wrapped in fine tannin that adheres to your teeth – they seem ripe enough. This is the youngest wine I’ve yet come across in this series of ’97’s, I would not hesitate in saying leave these for another 5 years. Seems to have real potential.