2006 Louis Chenu, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Talmettes
Medium, medium-pale cherry-red colour. The aromatics are wide, perhaps a little high-toned and alcoholic but over a denser slightly savoury fruit core. A little dissolved gas on the palate, good red fruits and young tannin – accentuated by the gas. There’s a nice burst of interest on the mid-palate and there’s good, if slightly prickly, acidity (gas again). This needs a year in the cellar, and the performance will be far better than described above if you decant an hour before serving. Excellent value wine in an elegant package.
Rebuy – Yes

2001 Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée
Medium colour. The nose is just a little alcoholic at the top over pretty, spicy red cherry and occasional wafts of coffee. Lovely texture but at this age the ‘puppy-fat’ has faded and the acidity is now more to the fore – the overall effect is now ‘only just ripe’. Cool red, tart cherry-fruit remains at the core and the finish is quite long. Just a little gawky now, but there are a few in the cellar for another day.
Rebuy – Maybe

I admit that I rather fell out with the wines from this domaine following the release of the 1997 and 1998 vintages, wines with hair-raising tannins and little redeeming features to balance – or at least to stake a case for patience – but the 1995’s and 1996’s I always loved. A handy half-bottle provides the opportunity for a status report – given the performance I’m sure my Richebourgs will not be touched before their 20th anniversary…
1996 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – with fading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Christophe Pacalet, Chiroubles
Medium-plus cherry-red. Beaujolais aromatics, but in the best sense – fruity but with a serious and quite dense core. Soft velvet across the tongue. Raised red fruits – a little plum – perfect acidity and a slightly savoury edge to the fruit-driven finish. Very tasty wine – of which I drank a little more than my usual share…
Rebuy – Yes

The thing about bottles like this is that they are only one thrid the price of most well-known producers’ villages wines from the Côtes – it’s clearly not pinot noir – at least it bears no relation at this age, but I’m seriously(-ish) considering whether I should replace a portion of my drinking (20%?) with BJ, I’d save plenty of cash…

2006 Roulot, Bourgogne Aligoté
Maybe it was because I was just back from a 10 mile run, but this is/was a wonderfully refreshing drink. Soft and high-toned. Perfect balance and reasonably concentrated in the mouth – the acidity plays wonderfully across the tongue. On the negative side it’s rather simple for its price-tag – I think all the Roulot Bourgognes are priced above their quality level now, at least from European retailers – but it is a super summer drink.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Guy Breton, Morgon – p’tit Max
Medium, medium-pale colour. A high toned, slightly volatile nose. In the mouth that hint of volatility remains but the mid-palate shows a nice depth and also good texture. Reasonably well balanced with little overt tannin, but at best, an okay wine.
Rebuy – no

This villages wine costs the same as the producer’s premier crus – why? – the words ‘vignes centenaire’ give the game away…
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier
Medium, medium-plus colour. A somehow silky nose the starts with chocolate then higher-toned herbal aromatics over a tight red-fruit core. Good fat in the mouth and fine texture, the acidity works very well but there’s just a little spritz (which stayed for the whole 3 hours it was open) which gave the faint tannins a little extra texture. Persistent flavour – this really is a superb villages wine, less complex but currently more enveloping than the producer’s premier crus. Expensive but super.
Rebuy – Yes

Anyone care to suggest a list of wines made from 100 year-old (plus!) vines for a grand tasting in 2025?

Having enjoyed the 2005’s from this producer I bought a few more including a couple of little seen village lieu-dits. I expect tomorrow’s to be a little more special, though this is not bad either:
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Jouise
A rarely seen villages name on this label. The colour is rather deep, as is the nose; dark, very faintly oaky cherry with a width of higher tones, as it warms there’s a latent hint of undergrowth. Poised, super acidity and a lingering, mouthwatering finish. There’s not the impact or intensity of the higher M-G wines, but this is a fine villages. So-far, up and down the range I’m very impressed by this producer – but okay, it’s ‘only’ the 2005 vintage…
Rebuy – Yes