This villages wine costs the same as the producer’s premier crus – why? – the words ‘vignes centenaire’ give the game away…
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier
Medium, medium-plus colour. A somehow silky nose the starts with chocolate then higher-toned herbal aromatics over a tight red-fruit core. Good fat in the mouth and fine texture, the acidity works very well but there’s just a little spritz (which stayed for the whole 3 hours it was open) which gave the faint tannins a little extra texture. Persistent flavour – this really is a superb villages wine, less complex but currently more enveloping than the producer’s premier crus. Expensive but super.
Rebuy – Yes
Anyone care to suggest a list of wines made from 100 year-old (plus!) vines for a grand tasting in 2025?