Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has some dark depth and the slightly musky, heavy perfume often to be found in 09s. Slowly the floral disentangles itself from the fruit – it’s lovely to follow. Likewise the palate is the archetypal full, round sweetness of the vintage – yet despite understated acidity it is completely balanced – I can certainly cope with its pleasure-seeking approach! The tannin is quite fine and very-much in the background – you’ll have to search it out. The flavour seems rather perfumed, slowly turning bitter in the finish and showing a hint of wood texture – both barrel derived though the texture (at least) will be gone in six months. Tasty as this is, I feel just a tweak more acidity might have given it the energy to reach another dimension – but I’m being really, really picky – it is lovely!
2009
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2009 Leroux Benjamin Chassagne-Montrachet Tête du Clos
2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Les Cras
Like the ‘en foule’ this has a little musk on the nose too., and it’s a very wide and interesting nose – it just seems to get better and better – I find something of the quality of a Musigny here – honestly! Lots of flavour and some complexity; it has the sweetness of the vintage but remains poised. Lovely, lovely wine.