2009

2009 Leroux Benjamin Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs

By billn on April 02, 2011

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has some dark depth and the slightly musky, heavy perfume often to be found in 09s. Slowly the floral disentangles itself from the fruit – it’s lovely to follow. Likewise the palate is the archetypal full, round sweetness of the vintage – yet despite understated acidity it is completely balanced – I can certainly cope with its pleasure-seeking approach! The tannin is quite fine and very-much in the background – you’ll have to search it out. The flavour seems rather perfumed, slowly turning bitter in the finish and showing a hint of wood texture – both barrel derived though the texture (at least) will be gone in six months. Tasty as this is, I feel just a tweak more acidity might have given it the energy to reach another dimension – but I’m being really, really picky – it is lovely!

2009 Leroux Benjamin Chassagne-Montrachet Tête du Clos

By billn on March 30, 2011

From just under La Romanée, but unfortunately only two and a half barrels per year. More intense yellow fruit aromas. Fuller, certainly rounder than the taught Vireuls. The intensity grows – this is very, very impressive – indeed! I love this.

2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Les Cras

By billn on March 24, 2011

Like the ‘en foule’ this has a little musk on the nose too., and it’s a very wide and interesting nose – it just seems to get better and better – I find something of the quality of a Musigny here – honestly! Lots of flavour and some complexity; it has the sweetness of the vintage but remains poised. Lovely, lovely wine.

2009 Vougeraie Vougeot Clos Blanc de Vougeot

By billn on March 24, 2011

The aromas are not so deep but show an engaging width. Concentrated with good underlying acidity, this is rich – but not in any negative sense. Lovely length – super.

2009 Guyot Olivier Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées

By billn on March 23, 2011

Understated aromas, flowers and fruit – seems quite composed. This is very interesting indeed with impressively intense flavours that are long-lasting…

2009 Long-Depaquit Chablis Vaucoupin

By billn on March 22, 2011

Very nice aromas with hints of the sea. More lithe and fleet of foot vs. the 07 Vaillons. Lovely finishing acidity and flavour – an excellent finish!

2009 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses 1er

By billn on March 22, 2011

A blend of two premier crus. Nervous, quite wide then a darker depth with some mineral/coal – a very interesting nose. Good balance and a lovely, lovely length – actually the length is the defining feature of this wine – really super!

2009 Bichot Albert Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses

By billn on March 22, 2011

An earlier sample of this just seemed a bit dead, this is anything but. High-toned aromas of flowers – plenty of perfume. Full flavoured – very impressive despite a hint of coconut oak in the finish. The perfume pervades the flavours too – not just pretty, this is a wine of authority.

2009 Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By billn on March 22, 2011

Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbs mixing through plenty of high-tones. Full, more structure than the 08 Amoureuses, slightly sticky tannin and absolutely flavour-packed. The overall profile is very ripe but this is clearly a wine that rewards a little wallowing…

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