A shade darker and less amber thane the ’97 Varoilles. A little coffee and slowly evolving black fruits on the nose. Again there’s good fat, but this time the fruit has a less obviously roast character. Tannins are pretty much resolved. Tasty and drinking now.
Varoilles
2000 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
The 2001 disappointed slightly after the 2002, but we’re back with a bang here. Medium cherry red, just fading a little at the rim. The now characteristic high-toned nose supported by cherry red fruit is in evidence. Lovely fruit with real depth – much friendlier than the last wine, but certainly not a ‘short-termer’. This is a really fine effort for a 2000, has everything it needs for 5-10 years of development.
1999 Varoilles Charmes-Chambertin
Just a little deeper coloured than the des Varoilles Gevrey 1er. There’s a little toasty oak but this is very well done as despite the young age, it already provides a good cocoa topping to the dark cherry fruit. The palate without showing great weight manages to produce an intense young fruit profile with well balanced acidity and buried tannins. Starting to close up a little but a wine worth following.
1996 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles
Medium ruby red, just a trace of amber at the rim. Not as high-toned as many and no spice, but the red cherry comes through just like the others from this vineyard. Concentrated with fresh acidity and good tannins – in fact lovely concentration. The finish doesn’t linger as long as the ’97 Varoilles but this is very much my preferred style.