Varoilles

1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red, no fading. Stewing cherries on the nose – little else. More density and definition than the 2000, still with mouth-watering acidity and little obvious tannin. Certainly not a stunner for the vintage, but very tasty in isolation and should last for a long time.

1995 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium ruby red, little fading and despite a little amber at the rim, still looks relatively young. A fresh raspberry and cherry tart nose with a pleasing, slightly estery, tertiary depth. The dominant style of this wine is the acidity, smooth but in the ascendant. The fruit is actually quite tasty with a piercing red fruit aspect. There’s just a trace of dryness on the finish but the tannins are well mannered. Not fully joined up this wine, but it’s clean, very drinkable and unlikely to go downhill soon.

1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Candied red fruit on the nose, red cherry predominates but it’s quite primary still. The palate is medium concentrated with very good acidity and almost absent tannins. Lovely balance to this wine, it’s sweet and tasty with good but not exciting length. A very worthy and enjoyable villages.

2002 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Well-rounded oak and mainly black fruit, even hints of black olive and coffee. Equally round, slightly fat palate. There’s excellent balance, good fruit and acidity plus tannins that are completely buried unless you do some serious chewing – if you do then the acidity becomes quite tart. I look forward to following the development of this wine.

1997 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium ruby red core just fading slightly to amber. Ash-notes overlay sweet, spicy and slightly plummy red fruit. There’s good texture that’s just a little creamy. The acidity is just a little harsh in the finish but the wine’s quite fat and the fruit has concentration and lasts very well though is quite cooked – reminds me more of Carneros than Gevrey…

2000 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée

By on February 28, 2005 #asides

Medium ruby red. High-toned, fresh and slightly powdery dry nose. Good, mouth-watering acidity, very little overt tannin. The red-shaded fruit is quite nice and has not-bad concentration for a 2000. A little 1996 in style but without the concentration of many from that vintage, good and clean but not really exciting.

1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Darker than the 2000 but with a watery rim. The nose also has a black stance, slightly spicy too. Soft on the palate with smooth, sweet and quite dense (for a villages) fruit – yet I have the feeling that there’s a trace of dilution – not sure why. The finish is satisfying and the tannin and acidity are first rate though there’s a trace woody-ness. Certainly drinking now, but much more structure than 2000. A wine that I would buy again.

1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Despite having more to offer than meets the eye, this wine visually disappoints. The colour is a medium-pale, ruby-amber – it could be a weak looking 1985. The nose blows off a few slightly cooked and woodland notes to reveal a still, quite primary red fruity base. The fruit could be more concentrated on the entry, but there is a kick in the tail – a surprisingly intense mid-palate – then a medium, not so exciting finish. Improves quite a bit overnight but frankly I don’t know what to make of this wine. If I had a few in the cellar I think I’d drink all bar a couple and check them out for academic interest in a few years.

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