Drunk as a counterpoint to the Leroy 2004 Vosne-Romanée – but 24 hours later. Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is dense with tightly bound red fruit, only faintly spicy, just a trace of cedar, quite wide; totally different and more fruit driven than the complex, forward, smoky stems of the Leroy. The palate has lots of forward acidity, the fruit extract is only-just enough to cover this, but
there is still an element of tartness in the finish. The Leroy had better balance, but this seems to have more fruit, plus a little grainy tannin. Open for several hours this crosses the border from almost good to good and seems to have improved in balance, perhaps not a wine to fill your cellar with, but worthy of a few bottles for future reference.
Bichot Albert
2002 Bichot Albert Nuits St.Georges
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose soars with red cherry fruit, nice depth too. Fresh, forward acidity that provides a lift to the finish – nicely mouthwatering. A trace of tartness to the fruit, but chilled, this will be lovely summer drinking. Pure and fresh, only the acidity closely avoids rusticity but it’s got a super nose.
2002 Bichot Albert Savigny-lès-Beaune
Clear medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The wide nose starts with a hint of barrel-spice and high-toned cherry fruit. Fresh acidity brings sour-cherry fruit to the fore – fruit that has good intensity in the mid-palate and enough sweetness. Well-textured tannin shows just an edge of dryness. I enjoyed it very much, in fact it just hints at a raisiny edge to the finish which could further develop, but this will most likely remain a little on the tart side – a world away from many 2003’s. At this price I bought a couple more.
2004 Bichot Albert Saint-Romain
2004 Bichot Albert St.Aubin
2004 Bichot Albert Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes
Amply demonstrating the challenge that vignerons faced with this vintage, in 2002 Bichot were able to produce 10,000 cases of this wine – for the same quality in 2004 only 2,000 could be made. Fresh, bright cherry nose – almost a Ribena aspect. Sweet and clean it nicely fills the mouth. A little grainy tannin, but a very well-crafted Bourgogne.
2004 Bichot Albert Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées
2004 Bichot Albert Nuits St.Georges Les Crots
2004 Bichot Albert Vosne-Romanée
This vintage also contains young-vines from Les Malconsorts. The nose is not so deep, but has super width – very stylish. Sweet palate with lots of interest. The acidity is good, though there’s a slight grain to the tannin. Frankly this is a really excellent villages and a good showcase for the 2004 vintage.