Medium-plus red, perhaps starting to lose some of the colour of youth. The nose is lovely; invitingly deep, dark fruit with a hint of mineral. Mouthfilling, with excellent acidity and still slightly sticky but smooth tannin. There’s plenty of flavour here and a mineral length too. Drinking very well right now – I’m tempted to try some of the other cuvées. Lovely.
Berthaut
2004 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.
2005 Berthaut Fixin Les Arvelets
1988 Berthaut Fixin Les Arvelets
A deep, dusky and musky nose – in the short time we’re together the fruit slowly comes more to the fore. Very soft entry, it’s wide and and interesting with plenty of dimension, power and is quite ripe. There’s a little more grain to the tannins than the previous wines, but this is long and lovely – à point and a treat!
2005 Berthaut Fixin Les Crais
2005 Berthaut Fixin Les Arvelets
2005 Berthaut Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux
Delicate, fragrant and focused, it’s a lovely nose though not what I would guess to be Gevrey. Some fat, this nicely
textured wine again shows an additional creamy edge to the fruit. The tannin is less transparent than the previous
‘Arvelets’, but it’s fine and ripe. Finishes long and fresh. Excellent villages.
2000 Berthaut Fixin Les Clos
A little paler. Ripe, baked fruit with some pot-pourri spice background. A sweet palate that avoids being cloying – plenty
of red confiture. Soft, with good apparent concentration. Not quite so decadent as the 2003 ‘Crais’ but still with a twist
of hedonism! I’d say that this would still benefit from 1-3 years more in the cellar.
1988 Berthaut Fixin Les Arvelets
A deep, dusky and musky nose – in the short time we’re together the fruit slowly comes more to the fore. Very soft entry,
it’s wide and and interesting with plenty of dimension, power and is quite ripe. There’s a little more grain to the tannins
than the previous wines, but this is long and lovely – à point!