Why Big Red Diary?
447 notes
Vintage information 2006:

The reds: Impressive in the Côte de Nuits - almost 2005 quality. Côte de Beaune's are typically more reticent, many are fine, but it's better to test before you buy full cases. Quality spreads between good, sophisticated medium-term drinkers - tasty wines - and more structured medium-plus term wines from later bottlers - buy if you're happy with prices.
For Whites: there are plenty of overblown, flabby wines from later pickers, but the best straddle a divide between the rich 05s and the fresher 04s

2006 Château de Marsannay, Gevrey-ChambertinApr. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose begins with deep but narrow aromas with a little mint-leaf and occasional but very pretty flowers and cream. There seems not too much tightening of flavour yet – there’s still a little rasp of tannin and a reasonable width of flavour too. Good acidity, which helps further expand the flavours in the mid-palate, which also shows a nice floral aspect. A more than adequate wine for the label!
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-MontrachetApr. 2012
Golden colour. The nose has more than a little butterscotch and a core of floral aromas – eventually an appealing, if slightly disconcerting balsamic note that reminds me more of a red wine. The has a whack of quite powerful flavour, waxy silkiness and sufficient (plenty in a 2006 context) acidity for good balance. The finishing flavour is long with a hint of mineral, but also a trace of oxidation. Fully enjoyed, that oxidative note certainly not spoiling things but it would remind me to finish these up and replace with a younger vintage.
2006 Mugnier J-F, Nuits St.Georges Clos de la MaréchaleJan. 2012
Medium-plus colour once more. Here the nose is really about pinot (oops – Nuits! – well, maybe…) with a top to bottom elegance, plenty of floral, violet, references too. In the mouth this has extra sweetness and also is much more silky; yet roll it around in your mouth and you’ll find lovely acidity and no lack of velvety tannin – you just need to look for it. The fruit in the mouth is quite high toned, but very pretty. This is actually very lovely now, but has a reserve of balance – which I hope will allow me to still enjoy my last bottle in at least another 20 years. It’s not super-long, but it is super-tasty. Yum. A point worth noting is that if the wine reaches the heady heights of a mere 20 degrees, it becomes a bit diffuse an less impressive – keep to 18 or below and all is well.
2006 Monnot Xavier, Pommard Les VignotsJan. 2012
Medium-plus colour, still with purple highlights. The nose is reasonably forward but a bit burly and bulky with hints of cola, only after the bottle has been opened a couple of hours do you start to get some clear, clean and quite pretty fruit notes but it’s only from the last drops in the glass. Like the nose, this a broad-shouldered wine and it wears it’s tannin without a hint of reserve – but the tannin is ripe and not too grippy. There’s a nice breath of fresh acidity and a reasonable length, but I’m missing some excitement – not sure if it’s this wine or also a bit of 2006 thing – will have to check on some.
2006 Mikulski François, Meursault PoruzotsJan. 2012
The nose is wide, faintly caramel and shows a certain sweetness. In the mouth this is full and round, it also shows quite some cushioning – initially the acidity seems almost borderline, certainly after the last bottles – yet alone this is a wine that won’t leave you unrefreshed. Some herbs in a finish that has a certain sweetness – not unlike the nose!
2006 Camus, Charmes-ChambertinNov. 2011
The nose is mineral and understated – yet there is quite some depth. In the mouth, this has a nice racy stance with good texture and a nice depth of flavour that slowly expands before decaying in the finish. This wine has much to commend it – it is neither simple nor ‘fruity’, but it is engaging.
2006 Bouton Gilles, Blagny Sous Le PuitsJun. 2011
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little tight but shows a dark core of glossy fruit. Silky with a slowly building tannin – it remains subtle and has a bitter-chocolate edge. The dark fruit flavour grows in tandem and is really quite impressive in the mid-palate, it holds quite well too. Tight yet with clean lines and a decent depth of fruit. Very nice.
2006 Comte Liger-Belair, EchézeauxMay. 2011
Much aromatic complexity – warming the glass brings more density of fruit. Full but balanced, supple concentration – another wine of understated but impressive length. Less ‘woody’ than a bottle last September – just lovely, covetable wine.
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Vosne-RomanéeApr. 2011
A beautiful aroma rises from the glass; there is a little spice but it bubbles below with red berries and violets – lovely. The palate is becoming tight, but it retains just enough generosity that there is balance. It’s a little mineral in the long finish. Very good, but either just sniff or be prepared to wait a few years.
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