weekend wines – week 12 2020

By billn on March 24, 2020 #degustation

The variety of Burgundy in 3 bottles:

2013 Comte Liger-Belair, Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Cras
Like Louis-Michel’s 2013 villages Vosnes, there’s a little reduction here – but here it’s on a much lower level than those wines. The wine starts round – both the aromas and the flavours – I find a surprising amount of fat and depth here. This wine needs about an hour of aeration to deliver the more classical aspects of this vineyard – more flowers, less fat and an excellently developing line of flavour – here is the structure that I’ve been waiting for but not at the expense of texture – and it’s why I buy this wine. If you are tempted to try one of these, decant. Really super…
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Clotilde Davenne, Saint-Bris Vieilles-Vignes
Screw-cap.
Now here’s a little more colour than recent wines. The aroma is of more impact but also invitation than the young Saint-Bris of Gueguen, last week. In the mouth too – broad, well concentrated, deliciously flavoured with good intensity to boot. Here is a delicious wine that’s far too easy to drink – at its apogee? Maybe – the bottle drains far too quickly!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Thillardon, Chénas Coup Double
The name is a nod to the young twins of Paul-Henri Thillardon.
Modest colour. A nose of easy invitation – red-fruited with a suggestion of flowers too. Ooh – that’s a palate to sink into – easy, open but still with depth of flavour. It’s a sweet wine like many from the vintage, but it’s never intense, always cushioning. Love…
Rebuy – Yes

it’s that frosty time again…

By billn on March 24, 2020 #vintage 2020

Images abound of fat vine buds, even some first unfurling of leaves, plus – of course – like other recent vintages, the threat of frost.

Chablis seems to have avoided the low temperatures this week, Beaune (and environs) had some minus temperatures overnight with occasional plots (owners) lighting candles. So far nothing in Beaujolais, but there’s concern there for tomorrow. At least the weather has been dry, which means – probably – no damage until you reach -3°C.

The world outside of sports-stadia and hospitals continues…

offer of the day – 2018 l’Arlot

By billn on March 23, 2020 #the market

In my inbox – I offer the comparison with the previous prices (in brackets) of the 2017s, 2016s, and 2015…

Domaine de l’Arlot

Nuits-Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru 2018 75cl 69.50 (59.00, — 59.00)* Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Hors Ligne’ 2018 75cl — (79.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de l’Arlot 1er Cru 2018 75cl 88.00 (85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2018 75cl 88.00 (85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2018 150cl 181.00, (175.00, 175.00, —)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2018 75cl 129.00 (119.00, 119.00, 109.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2018 150cl 263.00 (—)
Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2018 75cl — (—, 486.00, 445.00)

*Note that 8% sales tax is also due, but the delivery cost is included…

2018 Beaujolais – it’s where the value lies

By billn on March 23, 2020 #beaujolais#reports

Burgundy Report - 2018 BeaujolaisMost wine merchants are still making deliveries to self-isolators – so what are you going to drink at home?

If you’re looking at 2018s, then the value – and often the consistency of quality – is more often with Beaujolais than the Côte d’Or. So with that in mind:

Newly online is my February Report – 2018 Beaujolais.

62 domains, well over 400 new wines from an, often, great vintage. That’s now over 3,000 wines tasted from 260 domaines for the 2018 vintage reports of October 2019 to February 2020, and in each case with vintage commentary from their winemakers.

Now, who’s going to be the first to buy my mixed case recommendation? – That’ll keep you perky at home!

a few recent wines to isolate with…

By billn on March 21, 2020 #degustation

2017 François Carillon, St.Aubin 1er Pitangerets (Red)
Like many from the south of the Côte d’Or in 2017 – no more than medium colour. Aromatically, here’s a lovely core of sweet and attractive red fruit – swirl long enough and I even think we have little violet flowers in here too. I like the energy very much here, it’s also a wine with a satisfying but not austere structure. Mineral finishing. This is very satisfying wine – I like it a lot.
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Clos de la Poulettes, Côte de Nuits Villages Chardonnay
A bounding puppy of energy here. A wine with a certain attractive sucrosity to balance the energy – both aroma and flavour. It’s an endearing wine, with its forward pineapple-style flavour, though by the third glass(!), maybe I’m starting to tire of it a little. Still, a big and tasty mouthful of wine that delivers a fine quality for a good price.
Rebuy – Maybe

2002 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts
Of course, it’s a direct comparison with the 2002 Hudelot-Noellat Suchots from a few days ago. This wine is the less complex, easier-going sibling. The nose is inviting and reasonably complex – though far behind what you can find in the Suchots. In the mouth, however, this is a wine that’s much more readily attractive due to an extra sweetness of fruit. Clearly less complex but a tasty wine that’s more moreish than the Suchots at this stage – it’s completely ready. I remember Jacques Lardière telling me that Petits Monts was only a ‘second division’ Vosne 1er – maybe the fruit that he had access to? – but in this comparison, he’s got it right. But this is also the more drinkable of the two at this age. A small amount of wine left for day 2 was less interesting – so drink all on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price!

2017 Céline et Frédéric Gueguen, Saint-Bris
I think that it must have been our apero of cheesy-biscuits, but here’s a wine that began in an anonymous way – little flavour or aroma from opening. After about 20 minutes it was either opening, or we were becoming more open to the wine. Modest sauvignon character with a little mint. Fresh with good energy. A tasty wine, though still a slight wine. Refreshing and interesting all the same – also good value wine too!
Rebuy – Maybe

hudelot-noellat’s 2002 vosne 1er les suchots

By billn on March 18, 2020 #degustation

Hudelot-Noellat Les Suchoty

2002 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Here is a good depth of colour and – what a nose! Wide, it pulls you in, so complex; leaves, tobacco, smoke, fine fruit – age – no, maturity! Fine energy in the mouth, complex too – reflective of that great nose. After the vintages of 2015-2019 you’d be forgiven for thinking that this lacks a little sweetness – but it’s completely classic and ‘ready.’ A wine I enjoyed very, very much. Excellent stuff!
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price!

offer of the day – william fevre 2018

By billn on March 18, 2020 #the market

From my usual Swiss importer source. The prices of the 2017s, 2016s and 2015s from previous years are in brackets for you to compare (— means not offered). If you’ve read my 2018 Chablis report, you will know which ones of these I covet!

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2018
CHABLIS Village 75cl 22.00 (22.00, 22.00, 19.00) Swiss Francs*
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 75cl 48.00 (48.00, 45.00, 42.00)
CHABLIS Vaulorent 75cl — (54.00, —, —)
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Preuses 75cl 78.00 (78.00, 75.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Preuses 150cl 161.00 (—)
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 75cl 79.00 (79.50, 79.00, 65.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 75cl 94.00 (89.00, 89.00, 75.00)
CHABLIS Les Clos 150cl 193.00 (—)

Relatively a steady period for the prices here – unless you’re a Les Clos buyer – despite advantageous yields in 2018.
*The prices are ‘delivered’ but will attract another 8% Swiss purchase tax.

Burgundy Report

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