the sun has got his hat on – my last week in Beaujolais…

By billn on March 01, 2021 #beaujolais#travels in burgundy 2021

Côte de Brouilly 26 February 2021My Beaujolais visits are in the bag – and today, is my first visit to Beaune since 11 December – report writing and a large tasting. Not to mention airing the apartment and checking that the heat still works and no problems with the pipes!

My three weeks of Beaujolais visits started with snow and minus temperatures – midway through it plumbed the lowest temperature of the winter at home, minus 14°C, it was also as low as minus 9°C in the Beaujolais hills. Jump forward to last week, and the mercury was nudging 20° – like in each of the last 3 years in February – shorts and sunglasses weather for those out pruning. Because of this ‘heat,’ I bought less wine!

??? you ask. Well, I can’t keep it in a hot car all week – some of it had hardly a gram of sulfur…

I should say that I’ve bought quite a lot of 2019 Beaujolais – those cuvées which weren’t already sold out. I’m a very big fan of this vintage – which you will see when my report is published at the end of March…

Now – around here somewhere must also be some anecdotes of wines tasted at home in the last couple of weeks – let me have a look around and come back to you on that…

La Romanée – how about a ’62? – it’s just a question of which century…

By billn on February 25, 2021 #events#the market

la romanee memories
Images from Baghera

Remember this? Well, the catalogue is now available – you can bid online, or just electronically thumb the pdf…

baghera-la-romanee-1862We can quibble about pricing – and who’s to say the catalogue doesn’t underestimate the hammer prices? Particularly when you consider a sought after vintage of the wine from today’s maker – Louis-Michel Liger-Belair will easily approach US$10,000 for a single bottle. With that in mind the prices, considering both age and provenance, are damn-near respectable.

I considered maybe a birth-year wine? but I forgot that Bouchard didn’t have the contract in the 1960s – I’ve seen 1962 La Romanée from Camille Giroud though! So what about adding a century? Okay I know what hair I have is greying, but it’s not that grey!

this week’s snaps…

By billn on February 24, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

Let the sun shine…

Today was just over 20°C, but because of an almost constant wind – it felt chilly after my lunchtime run – still, never forget, it’s February, despite what my (jogging!) shorts and t-shirt might suggest!

It’s the final phase of my 3 weeks in Beaujolais – it looks like almost 70 domaines will be in the bag at report-time – all hopefully published before the end of March. The most comprehensive Chablis and Beaujolais reports there are – so people tell me – the Côte d’Or selection is not bad either 😉 That will be over 280 domaine’s wines profiled for the 2019 reports – so far…

Anyway, some of this week’s snaps:

Beaujolais, so far this week…

By billn on February 17, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

Spring has sprung!

At home in Switzerland, after a week of snow and minus temperatures, we hit this winter’s peak frost early on Sunday morning – minus 13°C. Directly when arriving in Beaujolais mid-morning on Monday, the temperature was 7°C. Whilst they also had a little snow and minus temperatures last week, this afternoon it was almost 15°C with a beautiful blue sky and fine views of Mont Blanc – the wild bees were flying too.

Speaking of flying things, I found some people working in the vines in Chiroubles this afternoon – and they were clearly lost – as both have domaines in the Côte de Beaune to look after. Benoit Moreau and Eric Germain are sharing 2 hectares here and right from the start they are managing their plot with biodynamics – I’m already looking forward to their 2021s 🙂

The weekend is forecast to hit 20°C in Beaujolais. Whilst it’s too early to read anything into it, one vigneron told me today that the vines are behind 2019 and 2020 at this early stage. But life is awakening – and things can quickly change.

Anyway, just to show that I’m still alive, here are a few images from this week, so far…

2019 White Burgundy – part 3 – Chablis

By billn on February 15, 2021 #reports

2019 White Burgundy - part 3 - Chablis

The fifth in my series of 2019 Burgundy Reports is now online. To recap:
1. The whites part 1 – Mâconnais, followed by
2. The whites part 2 – Côte de Beaune
3. The reds part 1 – Côte de Beaune
4. The reds part 2 – Côte de Nuits

Now my latest report, covering the whites of 2019 Chablis is now online – here. This is Part 3 of my three 2019 White Burgundy Reports.

This report covers the visits to taste 2019s at domaines #151 – #216 in my campaign of 2019 visits. It, naturally, includes both what I like and who I like, and rather than ‘just’ scores, I actually recommends which wines to buy!

I hope that you enjoy this in-depth look. I’m now underway in Beaujolais, also tasting 2019s to start my Red Burgundy Report – Part 3! – 55 producers to visit – so that will then be 270 domains visited to taste their 2019s – of course with more to come before the new wave of 2020s starts in around July or August!

weekend wines – yes it’s an early start!

By billn on February 12, 2021 #degustation

weekend - an early start...
Thursday night can be classed as the start of the weekend – no?

2014 Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault
DIAM5-sealed
A young colour. The nose starts with a slightly savoury, almost saline reduction – it’s a baby – with air the aromas go deep with a ripe but still fresh fruit. Vibrantly flavoured wine of beautiful fresh balance and fine texture but there’s concentration here too – the finishing line of flavour is really super – such an engaging pure intensity. Great villages, from a great vintage in equally great, still young, shape…
Rebuy – You bet!

2017 Boursot, Gevrey-Chambertin
This starts with a forward, comfortably textured nose of ripe – but not too ripe – fruit and a creamy vanilla oak – a bit too much of the latter, today at any rate. I only took one glass on the first night – a good decision – the oak is seemingly quite volatile as on day two it has reduced to a faint accent. The wine, like most Côte de Nuits in 2017 is amply concentrated and very forward/attractive. Deliciously layered, pure fruited, easy wine. Very enjoyable indeed but for the sake of my dislike for vanilla, I wouldn’t open another for 2 years.
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
The cork comes out no problem, though sniffing the wet end implies a problem – not TCA, rather with brett, let’s see…
Ouch, that stinks – DNPIM! In the glass as it aerates it smells marginally less bad with time – against my better judgement I take a sip – that’s actually not bad(!) – I can hardly taste the brett. Fresh, nice energy and dimension of flavour – that’s super – but the wine still stinks! If you wait long enough – a minimum of 25-30 minutes – the brett aroma is almost gone and now you have something really very nice. Of course, once you refill the glass, you are back to square-one so will have to wait another 30 minutes – that’s like a dry February!
Rebuy – No
Fortunately, this was my last bottle of a 6-pack; clearly this was no outliner

offer of the day – 2019 l’Arlot

By billn on February 11, 2021 #the market

In my inbox – I offer the comparison with the previous prices (in brackets) of the 20018s, 2017s, 2016s, and 2015…
— signifies ‘not offered’

Domaine de l’Arlot

Nuits-Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru 2019 75cl — (69.50, 59.00, —, 59.00)* Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Hors Ligne’ 2019 75cl — (—, 79.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de l’Arlot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.50 (88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2019 75cl 89.50 (88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2019 150cl 184.00, (181.00, 175.00, 175.00, —)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2019 75cl 135.00 (129.00, 119.00, 119.00, 109.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2019 150cl — (263.00, —, —, —)
Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2019 75cl 498.00 (—, —, 486.00, 445.00)

A more compact offering of the domaine’s wines this year.
*Note that an additional 7.7% sales tax is also due, but the delivery cost is included…

la romanée-a-go-go….

By billn on February 10, 2021 #diary dates#the market

Baghera-blog-main-image-Article- la romanee memories

Whilst I’ve had plenty of open questions for wines in multiple sales by this Swiss auction house, Baghera continues to push the boundaries as to what a great sale can be.

Irreproachable sales of the last bottles from the Engel and Jayer estates are now complemented, if not augmented, by this.

An online catalogue will be available on February 18, 2021 for the sale on Sunday 18 April, 2021 – I think that I will try to attend…

“On April 18, as part of its “La Romanée Memories” sale, Baghera/wines will have the immense honour of presenting a set of nearly 2,000 bottles from the cellars of the Maison Bouchard Père & Fils to the public. This extremely rare collection of 1,926 bottles, magnums and jeroboam contains wine in an irreproachable state of preservation withdrawn from a long rest in the Château de Beaune cellars.”

Quote and image above from Baghera

offer of the day – bruno clair – 2017 & 2018s

By billn on February 09, 2021 #the market

From my usual Swiss merchant. In brackets, where offered, are the previous prices of the 2016s:

Domaine Bruno Clair
Marsannay Blanc 2018 75cl 28.00* (Swiss Francs)
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018 75cl 145.00

Marsannay 2017 75cl 32.00
Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes 2018 75cl 39.00
Marsannay Les Longeroies 2018 75cl 40.00
Aloxe-Corton 2018 75cl 46.00

Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarrons 1er Cru 2017 75cl 48.00
Savigny-les-Beaune Les Jarrons 1er Cru 2018 75cl 48.00
Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominode 1er Cru 2018 75cl 59.00

(Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2016 75cl 115.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2017 75cl 105.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2018 75cl 119.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru 2017 75cl 139.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru 2018 75cl 145.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2017 75cl 189.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2018 75cl 215.00

(Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016 75cl 325.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2017 75cl 298.00
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 75cl 335.00

(Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2016 75cl 385.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 75cl 298.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2018 75cl 335.00

As opined about the 2016 – the Bèze price was much too high – I don’t know what the ideas were there. So, far from cheap at the top – great wines as they are – for me, I see a lot of value in a mixed-case of (red) Marsannays and the Dominode!
*As always with this merchant – there’s an additional Swiss purchase tax of 7.7% to add, but then the prices are delivered…

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