a new manager at domaine bertagna

By billn on October 30, 2006 #the market

christophe vial bertagnaChristophe Vial is the new estate manager at Domaine Bertagna in Vougeot, he will be assisted by the new vineyard manager Arnaud Lecoeur and cellarman Denis Rozat.

For the last five years, Christophe Vial was cellar-master at Domaine de Montille in Volnay. He now takes over from Claire Forestier who left the domain in March and is now to be found at Domaine Denis Mortet. Christophe’s replacement at de Montille is Gaétan Marchand who was a cellar-master at the Domaine de la Vougeraie in Premeaux.

Swings and roundabouts!

magnum report pt.4

By billn on October 30, 2006 #degustation

geantet pansiot
1993 Géantet-Pansiot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Poissenotstry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Deep ruby-red colour. Even at 13 years-old the nose still has some fall-out from the toasty oak of its youth; mixed with sweet, predominantly black shaded fruit and a little coffee – it takes some time in the glass to lose the oak, but it becomes ever-more primary with a strawberry/raspberry impression. Instant impressions are of concentration and very good acidity but only average length. Despite the length, this very youngly presented wine is certainly the most interesting Géantet-Pansiot I’ve ever had, all that I tasted from 2000-2002 seemed too soft in the middle. Expanding well in the mid-palate I even get the impression that the length improves with time, but following the hights of the ’93 Rousseau Clos St.Jacques this is very-much on a lower level. Rebuy – Maybe
1993 Bertrand Ambroise, Nuits St.Georges 1er Rue de Chauxtry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite estery, masking any real depth – at least at the start – very slowly this lifts giving a 20 minute window of nice red fruit and the start of a cedar note, but later becomes very high-toned again. The palate has a fresh yet concentrated stance with a heavy emphasis of nice black fruit. The finish is understated but long. An interesting wine that for me – apart from that 20 minute window – was spoiled by the aromatics. Rebuy – No.

magnum report pt.3

By billn on October 29, 2006 #degustation

1997 Mugneret-Gibourg, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottestry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus colour. The nose is surprisingly meaty and spicy, opening ever-wider and at the same time denser red fruit and a more mineral, cedar note comes through. The palate is very fresh and interesting for a 1997 – no dodgy acidity here – though perhaps only medium-plus length. Like the nose, the red fruit on the palate is rather dense and wall-like (like some ’95’s) – little in the way of delicacy is available and I’m not sure if more time will bring it, but this is quite young and almost impossible to pick blind as 1997. It’s still a fine young wine. Rebuy – Yes
1993 Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacquestry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. A deep, intense, meaty nose that starts with a slightly diffuse width. There is also a faint oaky component to the depth, but it’s mainly consumed now – with time the fruit really tightens and focuses. In the mouth this wine is still immensely youthful – 10 extra years would provide ample benefit – the acidity is like a roller-coaster into the finish, and a very impressive and intense finish it is too. Bravo, but still a baby. Rebuy – Yes

icon bashing

By billn on October 29, 2006 #other sites

It appears quite a strange hijack of a posting.

I suppose it’s his house, so RMP can say what he likes, but it seems as if he’s undermining his new staffer David Schildknecht even before he starts, who will now (possibly) have to review the 2002 wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with one arm tied behind his back – it wouldn’t do to disagree with his new boss – or would it(?)!

PS I have no concerns about the wines I bought AFTER I tasted!

magnum report pt.2

By billn on October 28, 2006 #degustation

dujac roche1995 Dujac, Clos de la Rochetry to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but the complexity is there for all to see. Very impressive. Rebuy – Yes. (No question, I already did!)
1995 Méo-Camuzet, Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Murgerstry to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red. A dense and intense nose of meat, earth, blood and eventually red fruit – some of the effect is wood-driven, but it’s impressive all the same. Well-balanced palate of good acidity and relatively good texture for a ’95 – the tannin is well-controlled. This is a very young wine that was never embarassed for density vs Dujac’s Clos de la Roche though by comparison was missing both complexity and a little length. A very young wine that definitely surprised on the ‘upside’. Rebuy – Yes

magnum report pt.1

By billn on October 27, 2006 #degustation

The first from a magnum dinner – it will take me a few days to get them all to you…
2001 Ambroise, Bourgogne Blanctry to find this wine...
Medium yellow. The nose is quite reticent; sweet and creamy with well-absorbed wood and an almost sherbet top note. The palate is reminiscent of a 2004 with tight acidity that’s hardly covered by the extract. The finish is a little rough, but given that I don’t have an idea of the price I would say (overall) not bad, maybe even almost good if it’s cheap enough! Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Hospices de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Cuvée Albert Grivault try to find this wine...
(From magnum, Maison Ambroise) Golden colour. The nose starts in a relatively forward and creamy way with a little oak-toast in the background. Slowly the aromatics get wider and more fruit-driven, providing a real extra dimension. The palate is quite fresh and just a little petillant to start (this is soon gone). I find a faint oxidative element but the length is rather good. There is certainly a bitter element in the finish which is oak-derived and which I would have expected to have melted by now – though perhaps the magnum-size makes the difference. It’s a good if not great 1er cru that gets better all the time from an aromatic perspective, but remains relatively static from a taste perspective. Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagnetry to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the Meursault, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine. Rebuy – Yes

2001 ponsot morey st.denis

By billn on October 26, 2006 #degustation

Tomorrow will kick-off the first of about 8 days of concentrated tasting; I start with a dinner with 12 super wines – all from magnum – then Tuesday will see a large Pommard tasting, Thursday and Friday I have visits at a number of domaines. Saturday sees yet-more 2004’s. I won’t have time to write up all the notes before the next report – but c’est la vie!
2001 Laurent Ponsot, Morey St.Denis Cuvée des Grivestry to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. The first impression from the nose is of soft, dark oak plus an equally soft red and black berry fruit. The palate is red fruity with a little tartness to the acidity, medium density and reasonable length. The texture is almost good, just a little grain to the medium-minus tannins. This is another (junior) Ponsot from 2001 that misses a little ripeness – or at least that’s the impression from the acidity – though it’s a lttle better than the village Gevrey. Rather like that Gevrey (who’s aromatics I prefered) it’s a wine that I can enjoy, but I wouldn’t buy it again.
Rebuy – no

a much better gay

By billn on October 25, 2006 #degustation

francois gay ladoixDespite an occasional whiff of something more like cork taint – though never on the palate – this wine is that very rare thing; a perfectly stunning example of a cheap burgundy – and to die for…
1999 Francois Gay, Ladoixtry to find this wine...
Deep ruby red. The nose first shows toasty, spicy oak, straight high tones and occasional glimpses a lovely penetrating red raspberry/redcurrant fruit. In the mouth this is fresh, with black edged ripe fruit, quite linear all the way into the finish accompanied by a slightly astringent, grainy tannin. Excellent.
Rebuy – Yes – in quantity, though unlikely to find…

another fine 2004 white

By billn on October 24, 2006 #degustation

fontaine gagnard la romanee
2004 Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanéetry to find this wine...
Medium-yellow. Initially, wide but not deep aromatics that hint towards melon rather than the citrus paradigm of 2004; with time, higher tones start to predominate, perhaps with a hint of smoke and citrus! If the nose doesn’t leave you thinking of 2004 the taste does; classical acid-driven citrus notes that run perfectly into a finish that’s just a little more savoury. Versus the best 1er Cru’s of 04 this doesn’t have that painful, moreish intensity, yet it’s very tasty and enjoyable; I’d still be happy to drink this anytime. Rebuy- Yes

Burgundy Report

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