the wines of burgundy, hw yoxall (1968)

By billn on July 27, 2007 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

yoxall burgundyFirst published by The International Wine and Food Society (Pitman) in 1968, this copy is from the slightly updated 1978 second edition. Compared to the last book I posted on, by Philip Youngman Carter (1966), this 190-pager by Harry Waldo Yoxall is a little more studied and less spontaneously amusing, but Harry has his nicely self-deprecating moments and like Youngman Carter before, retains the BBC grammar of a bygone age. To balance, there is more depth and in some areas considerable insight.

Harry certainly knew his stuff; he was a ‘Grand Officer de la Confrérie des Chevailiers du Tastevin’, chairman of the society responsible for publishing the book, and for 40 years was also the head of the London office of Vogue magazine and a contributor to others.

Overall, a book with some interesting areas; how to serve the wines, the question of adulteration of wines etc., broad enough in it’s coverage that it could have been an early template for the much revered book and probably still reference point in the subject by Anthony Hanson. I leave you with a few quotes:

“Halfway through the 15th century some Côte d’Or wine was evidently reaching the French court, for Louis XI praised the 1447 vintage of Volnay. (I liked the 1947)”

“This côte produces a light, fresh rosé at Marsannay, quite pleasant, if you like rosé, for picnic lunches – if you like picnic lunches.”

“My advice to the civilised tourist who is not in great hurry (and civilised people should not be in a hurry) is to keep off the main roads as much as possible.”

[Talking of Le Montrachet]“…Alexandre Dumas was inspired to declare that “it should be drunk kneeling, with ones head bared”. Personally I drink little wine with my hat on and, with my rheumaticky frame a kneeling posture would not enhance the pleasure of drinking even Le Montrachet.”

cheap as chips? 1875 romanée-conti (possibly)

By billn on July 24, 2007 #the market

conti 1875 romaneeNovember 9, 1875. Indian Wars: In Washington, D.C., Indian Inspector E.C. Watkins issues a report stating that hundreds of Sioux and Cheyenne associated with Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse are hostile to the United States (the Battle of the Little Bighorn was fought in Montana the next year).

That same year, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was quietly going about it’s business in the era where reports of phylloxera were finally being confirmed in the burgundian vineyards.

Here is the quote from the Christies catalogue of last week:

TWO RARE BOTTLES OF NINETEENTH CENTURY ROMANEE-CONTI
Lying at Christie’s South Kensington

Some years ago, Etablissements Nicolas sought to authenticate some old bottles of Romanee-Conti, resembling the bottles in this sale, which they had in their Paris cellars. These were itemised in their stock records, but without the bottles themselves carrying any distinctive sign; notably, the corks were not branded. It was impossible to have them authenticated.

In 1875, at the time of the oldest of the two bottles in this sale, Romanee-Conti was being tended and bottled in Santenay, in the cellars of the de Villaine family’s ancestor Duvault-Blochet. They normally did the bottling entirely at the property. It is possible that there were some barrel sales, but no records now exist to confirm this. The major part of the archives of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti disappeared during World War II.

I have spoken with the grand-son of Etienne Nicolas, who founded ETS. NICOLAS. The firm did not exist in 1875. It was started by his maternal grandfather in the early years of the 20th century. Etienne Nicolas was born around 1870. The company he founded began as a shop selling wine from the barrel (magasin de vin ‘ la tireuse).

It is possible that these wines were reconditioned by the Nicolas company during the 20th century, from bottles which had come back to them from the cellars of collectors. Alternatively, it may have purchased stock from another merchant, then labelled it with Nicolas labels (a perfectly legal practise). Today, we have no means of finding out.

These bottles are intriguing rarities, with excellent levels. For a passionate Burgundy collector, they will be unique, fascinating additions to the cellar. We look forward to hearing news of their opening, hopefully accompanied by fearless, in-depth evaluation and tasting notes !

A.H.
Romanée-Conti Grand Cru–Vintage 1875
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Corroded and damaged capsule. Label good for age, slightly bin-soiled. “Establissements Nicolas” at base of label. Level 4cms. below base of cork
1 bottle per lot

Well, that 1875 Romanee-Conti sold for £4,500 ($9,250), including the 12.5% buyer’s premium, about three times the venerable auction house’s estimate. In the same sale, the younger 1899 Romanée-Conti achieved £3,375 pounds – about the same as a decent modern vintage – why so cheap?

Anthony Hanson (AH), senior consultant to Christie’s wine department, had described the bottles before the auction as “curiosities” with “an element of risk” because their provenance was obscure. I would read that in the following way: Likely to be cooked so likely undrinkable (80%), possibly fake (19.5%) – some of you might choose to reverse those percentages, but the result remains the same – overall a 0.5% chance you could drink a decently stored 1875 Romanée-Conti. I might be an old cynic, but on the other hand, $9,000 for an objet d’art / chattel is not so bad, also if you fancy the 200 to 1 shot – that was incredibly cheap compared even to a recent (good provenance) bottle of 1990 or 1999…

Interestingly this seems such a common wine; Arvi has some, as does Everywine HERE.


Sources; Bloomberg, Christies

1997 chambolles…

By billn on July 24, 2007 #degustation

chambolle musigny
The interesting thing about slowly writing up these 1997 notes, village by village, is that you notice that things get slowly better as you head further north. It was a rare red wine that stood out in the Côte de Beaune, but certainly more common as you head north. Shame then that I missed the wines of Morey and Gevrey – particularly Gevrey as the rest of the tasters found the Gevreys to be the outstanding village. There are the dregs of a few grand crus that will make the last instalment (probably) tomorrow.
1997 Jean Tardy, Chambolle-Musigny Les Athetstry to find this wine...
A high-toned, rather nice nose. The palate is understated, with faintly astringent tannin. Has good length though. Quite nice but not the full package.
Rebuy – No
1997 Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Baudestry to find this wine...
Lovely red fruit on the nose, high tones too. Plenty of dimension on the palate, excellent attack coupled to plenty of grainy but ripe tannin. This is very, very good.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 Thierry Mortet, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Beaux Brunstry to find this wine...
Soft but fresh red fruits on the nose. The palate is very good, fresh and tannic. This is interesting and full of personality.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Crastry to find this wine...
A little oak then tight red fruit at the base. Rather bigger in the mouth than the Thierry Mortet, with lots of tannin but more than enough dimension to match. This is rather good.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Crastry to find this wine...
Redder and faintly estery aromatics after the Barthod. The palate is less explosive but on the positive side shows a little more complexity. In the end I found this a very nice wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

2 good, 1 great: a trio of guyon chambolles

By billn on July 23, 2007 #degustation

antonin guyon chambolles
Drunk over about 5 days…
2001 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musignytry to find this wine...
Medium ruby red. The nose starts with a little deep oak and mainly red shaded fruit – just a little heavy and cumbersome. Slowly the oak fades (about 90% gone) and the impression becomes more high-toned and just a little more refined – by day two it’s quite fine. The palate is quite concentrated and dense with lightly grained tannin and just a hint of bitterness – but this seems derived from the faint toasty oak. The finish is faint but long. Overall this is no shrinking violet, rather a relatively powerful wine that could do with a little more delicacy. Certainly has a long life ahead.
Rebuy – Maybe
2002 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musignytry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus core of cherry-red colour. The nose is forward, deep, faintly oaky, a little savoury and initially a touch reduced. The palate is effusive and rather intense – pulled along with wouth-watering but balanced acidity. It starts better than the 2001 started, but not as good as the 2001 finished. Given enough time (about 90 minutes) the nose is dark, wide and soft, with brown sugar and eventually a fine red berry. The palate becomes more elegant, though like the 2001 is edged with a trace of dark, bitter oak. Overall I marginally prefer the balance of this to the 2001.
Rebuy – Maybe
2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Villagetry to find this wine...
It’s from a monopole walled area next to the 1er cru of Cras – from barrel tasting it had a super extra dimension versus the ‘straight’ villages Chambolle. I was concerned on opening – the cork smelled of taint, as did the headspace – furtunately not a trace on pouring. A super nose; its deep cherry fruit with an edge of cream reminds me directly of the taste and smell from barrel. The palate has fat and a silky texture, perfectly cut by the acidity. This is very long, majoring on mineral rather than fruit notes. The cream on the nose is there on the palate too. From any other vintage you would assume this to a be a top 1er – at least.
Rebuy – Yes and I did.

97 nuits and vosne

By billn on July 22, 2007 #degustation

1997 Robert Chevillon, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vaucrainstry to find this wine...
Plenty of oak still on a nose that narrowly avoids reduction. Where the aromatics don’t involve, the palate delivers more; good dimension set against a furry tannin. Overall this is almost good but no more.
Rebuy – No
1997 Jean Tardy, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Boudotstry to find this wine...
The nose has the 97 sweetness though unusually it’s coupled with a rather herby presentation but nice high-toned red fruits too. Actually quite appealing. The palate was grainy and red – I didn’t really think of much more to say…
Rebuy – No
1997 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanéetry to find this wine...
It’s a nice nose of dark fruit, ripe, but not overly so. The palate has real depth, length and good balance too. I rather liked it and would buy at a decent price.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 AF Gros & François Parent, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Réastry to find this wine...
Understated nose that slowly becomes redder and quite excellent. The palate is furry, slightly prickly and comparitively disappointing.
Rebuy – No
1997 Gérard Mugneret, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Bruléestry to find this wine...
High-toned nose, understated but very nice. The palate is rather linear, but lots of dimension and almost good length. It’s actually almost good.
Rebuy – Maybe
As noted, the Cathiard is also a rebuy from Vosne.

three pommard 1er crus – 1997

By billn on July 21, 2007 #degustation#random

montille1997 des Epeneaux, Pommard 1er Clos des Epeneauxtry to find this wine...
(Magnum) The nose is more interesting than the the rather ‘harder’ and stand-offish stance this wine often shows; high-toned with plenty of dried fruits – more interesting that the standard 1997 ‘roasted’ fruits – plus freshness and depth. The palate is sweet with grainy tannin and is very long finishing. It’s clearly a very young, but surprised me in that there is more charachter here than I find in many vintages of this wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Jean-Marc Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Rugienstry to find this wine...
(Magnum) The nose is understated and tight. The palate has plenty of tannin, but impresses with an extra dimension of flavours that adhere to your gums. Very young but a good bottle.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 de Montille, Pommard 1er Les Rugienstry to find this wine...
(Magnum) A lovely soft and sweet red fruit nose – still quite primary. Plenty of decent tannin and lots of dimension on the palate. This is young but in the context of the vintage, excellent – the pick of these Pommards.
Rebuy – Yes

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