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des perdrix 2005 vosne-romanée
My experience of this domaine rests only on a few mid-age bottles from the 97-98 era, and all were woodier than I liked. This wine shows a very different face…
2005 des Perdrix, Vosne-Romanée
Deep colour. Initially diffuse aromatics hinted at a spicy depth but also showed a little mustiness, over about 1 hour there is more focus and clarity offering-up clean black fruit and some minerality. Mouth filling, concentrated, then bursts across the mid-palate with typical Vosne flavours if far from subtle, but to good effect. The tannins are quite well mannered and the finish lingers with an element of oak flavour – but it’s the only woody note. Fresh and tasty, and without overt oak character, but more obviously in need of cellar time than many.
Rebuy – Yes
morning call
I’d never heard anything quite like it, and despite there being (still) several minutes of the morning left, I decided to get out of bed and check.
In the garden was this very pretty and wonderfully vocal zebra finch. I presume it had escaped from its cage and would not be long for a world without hand feeding – even in summer – but it made (the last few minutes of) my morning…
offer of the week
William Fevre – and they’ve come a long way since the 2001 vintage – the price too, it’s just over double:
PREMIERS CRUS
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 37,5cl 22.00 Sfr
CHABLIS Montée de Tonnerre 2007 75cl 39.50
CHABLIS Fourchaume Vignoble Vaulorent 2007 75cl 55.00
GRANDS CRUS
CHABLIS Valmur 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Bougros Côtes de Bouquerots 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Les Preuses 2007 75cl 79.00
CHABLIS Les Clos 2007 75cl 89.50
changes at christies
From Decanter:
Christie’s is set to announce the departure of its long-standing head of wine auctions in the US.
Christie’s vice president Richard Brierley has returned to the UK after nearly eight years running the auction house’s North American division.
Brierley, a British subject, will now oversee preparations for the yearly Hospices de Beaune auction in France, alongside Christies’ long-running Burgundy specialist, Anthony Hanson MW.
olivier guyot 2005 gevrey 1er champeaux
Another bottle from the man and his horse. A good wine, but it suffers in comparison to the wines of the last evenings…
2005 Olivier Guyot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux
Deep colour, some purple at the rim. After the two wines of Marchand-Grillot in the last nights, the nose is a little more diffuse with oak influenced coffee notes over an espresso depth. In the mouth this is intense and shows lovely acid balance and quite some extension into the finish. The flavours reflect the nose in that they are a little diffuse and oak dominated – no oak texture, but plenty of toasty coffee. Today this is more than a nose behind the M-G wines but I suspect will be much more together in a year or two. I’m undecided on this, hence the rating.
Rebuy – Maybe
marchand-grillot, gevrey 1er petit-chapelle
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petit-Chapelle
Deep colour. The nose starts quite savoury, only slowly offering a deeper black-fruit core that has a faint white pepper coating. In the mouth this is much more mineral, the acidity is more obvious but retains good balance. The tannins are a little more visible and help the flavour stain your tongue. Good, mineral length with a twist of coffee. Overall a little more (obvious) structure and much less comely than the Perrières today, but qualitatively its equal. Another wine I shall buy.
Rebuy – Yes
vines: bought and sold…
From the BIVB:
Maison Louis Latour arrives in Régnié
Owned by Maison Louis Latour since early 2008, Henri Fessy (St-Jean-d’Ardières) has bought up 15 hectares of the Château des Reyssiers vineyard in Régnié (69). Maison Fessy now owns 35 hectares of vineyard. The aim of the chairman and managing director, Louis-Fabrice Latour, is to reach around fifty hectares. “We succeeded in Burgundy by being an owner-trader, and we hope to do the same in Beaujolais”, he explains. Fessy sells around 2 million bottles.The Devillard family in the Mâcon region
The Garenne estate in Azé (71) has joined the Devillard estates. This 4.5-hectare estate has been bought by the Beaumont family (in-laws of Amaury Devillard) in partnership with Robert Vernizeau, expert winemaker from the Perdrix estate (Nuits-Saint-Georges) and technical adviser to the Devillard family estates.
The wines of the Garenne estate will be produced to the same quality requirements in force on the Devillard family estates, and will be added to the range of estate wines distributed by the Devillard family: Château de Chamirey in Mercurey; Domaine des Perdrix in Nuits-Saint-Georges; Domaine de la Ferté in Givry, and Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, also in Givry.
www.domaines-devillard.comJoseph Drouhin: new vines in Savigny-lès-Beaune
Maison Joseph Drouhin (Beaune) has purchased 1 hectare of AOC Savigny-lès-Beaune Village and Premier Cru Fourneaux vines. A purchase which, according to the management, is “part of our supply quality development policy”. The Joseph Drouhin estate comprises 73 ha, and features some of the great Burgundy appellations: Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise.
marchand-grillot 2005 gevrey-chambertin 1er perrières
Apart from an itinerant Chambolle and Morey Villages, Marchand-Grillot are a source for site specific Gevrey villages, a couple of 1ers and a Ruchottes. Not a producer I know well, but if this wine is anything to go by, they are worthy of more attention.
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières
From 50 year old vines. Deep cherry-red, perhaps a little purple at the rim. An open and forward nose of minty, earthy, brambly blackcurrant fruit that falls into a creamy and eventually a redder depth. Ripe, a little lush, lightly grained tannin and excellently balancing acidity. The fruit flavour is very tasty in the mid-palate, almost a crystaline ‘black jelly’. Decent length. No tightening here I think – absolutely delicious right now.
Rebuy – Yes