1999 morey-blanc meursault (yuk!)

By billn on March 02, 2010 #degustation#p.ox

morey-blanc

1999 Morey-Blanc, Meursault
Inspecting the half-bottle, there’s some very fine sediment at the base and the wine is not perfectly bright. Under the capsule it is completely black, it looks like you could plant potatoes! The cork comes out and has pink and blue lines down it, the dark coloured wine is – quite obviously – oxidised! Not to an undrinkable level, but not far away. The nose has a little ginger mixed in with the oxidised aromas. In the mouth it seems clean and fresh. The acidity seems a little separate from the rest of the wine, but it is quite fine, but it’s oxidised…
Rebuy – No

offer of the day – domaine denis mortet 2008

By billn on March 01, 2010 #the market

Regional
BOURGOGNE 2008 75cl 30.65 (Swiss francs)
BOURGOGNE BLANC 2008 75cl 25.10
Villages
MARSANNAY 2008 75cl 46.45
FIXIN 2008 75cl 53.90
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2008 75cl 73.40
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VIEILLES VIGNES 2008 75cl 82.70
Premier Cru
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1er CRU 2008 75cl 116.15
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CHAMPAUX 2008 75cl 116.15
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LAVAUX ST.JACQUES 2008 75cl 116.15
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY AUX BEAUX BRUNS 2008 75cl 116.15
Grand Cru
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 2008 75cl 250.00
CHAMBERTIN 2008 75cl 360.00

Whilst I like like the approach that a 1er cru costs ‘x’, it’s an expensive ‘x’. It seems to me that the prices straddle two concepts: ‘offering little value’ and ‘outrageous’.

georges mugneret-gibourg bourgogne 2006

By billn on March 01, 2010 #degustation

mugneret-gibourg-bourgogne

2006 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgogne
The second from this case. Medium-plus colour. The deep nose shows plenty of dark cherry. More concentrated than you expect given the label, with a velvet texture and showing an extra dimension of flavour in the mid-plate. A decent finish too. This wine is in an excellent place right now!

2007 bonneau du martray corton-charlemagne

By billn on February 28, 2010 #degustation

bonneau-martray-charlemagne

2007 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne
Very pale yellow colour. Perhaps it was a little cold, but this was very tight to start with. Eventually the nose starts to give up fresh apple fruit backed by cold (trifle) custard. In the mouth this is absolutely linear, firing into an understated but very long finish that has a little sweet vanilla attached. Only if you keep the wine in your mouth do you appreciate the weight of extract and feel the mid-palate intensity. This is a very tight but very good wine – to be honest I’m impressed, but I really expected to be ‘wowed’!
Rebuy – Yes

nicolas potel 2000 savigny-lès-beaune les peuillets

By billn on February 27, 2010 #degustation

2000 Potel Nicolas, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les PeuilletsFeb. 2010
Medium colour – salmon pink at the rim. The nose, right from popping the cork is wide-open, brimming with coffee-laden, musky aromas, maybe a hint of brett too but it’s only part of the complexity. Quite well textured, decently balanced with unseen but slowly mouthwatering acidity. Lovely extension and intensity in the mid-palate that fades into a decent finish. Very much enjoyed!

offer of the day – domaine ferret pouilly-fuissé 2006-2008

By billn on February 26, 2010 #the market

POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2007 37,5cl 18.00 (Swiss francs)
POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2007 75cl 32.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2008 37,5cl 18.00
POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2008 75cl 32.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Tête de Cru Les Clos 2007 75cl 42.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Hors Classe Les Ménétrières 2006 75cl 49.00
POUILLY-FUISSE Hors Classe Les Ménétrières 2007 75cl 49.00

Now part of Jadot, these wines have never been cheap, or should I say ‘as cheap’ as others from Pouilly, yet, based on what I tasted at Jadot I almost see some value here, if I forget Chablis for a moment…

two recent clos from fevre…

By billn on February 26, 2010 #degustation

fevre-clos

With all the bruhaha of p.ox surrounding wines from Fevre in 2002 – typically, a vintage I have something close to 12 bottles of – I suppose that I will have to make those bottles my house wine for 2010, despite strong competition from Gambal’s 2006 Bourgogne!

Anyway a 2001 and a 2002 were opened last week, and those bottles were absolutely fine. The 2001 seems the more muscular and dense. The 2002 has a little more barrel vanilla and dimension in the mid-palate – it seems a little riper – perhaps that’s just the sweetness of the barrels(?) Both bottles were drunk over 3-4 days, left unstoppered in the refrigerator each night – the 2001 really did seem bullet-proof. Today I have a very slight preference for the 2001, tomorrow, who knows?

Without the elephant in the room I might buy more, but big ears is hiding behind the sofa, maybe there are not so many tomorrows left for these bottles…

white wines with a red nose…

By billn on February 25, 2010 #degustation#p.ox#travel#travel pics

klosters-madrisa
Impressed with my dexterity in Photoshop? Actually it is just a moody (blurred!) image from my phone…

klosters - dog tiredOnly a few days after a day-trip to Mürren we find ourselves in Klosters – well it is the season! Mainly blue sky, but getting a little warm with sticky snow by lunchtime – good for delivering the characteristic red nose though!

The long-legged redhead went to ‘doggy-daycare’ with 12-13 other daytime-abandoned dogs, delivering the perfect evening example of ‘dog-tired’.

A couple of evening wines – both 2003 whites – might be of interest for you. First up was the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Corton-Charlemagne which delivered an even better performance than this last bottle – whilst not ‘fresh’, I certainly wasn’t longing for more acidity. To follow, came the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Chevailier-Montrachet and what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty, but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…

Burgundy Report

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