Dry River: Martinborough’s Cult Pinot Noir

By William Rusty Gaffney on February 15, 2010 #degustation#rusty's posts

martinborough-dry-river-pinotThere is nothing else quite like Dry River Pinot Noir in New Zealand, or even in the world for that matter.  Dry River, located in Martinborough, North Island of New Zealand, was the name of one of the oldest Wairapa sheep stations in New Zealand, dating to 1877. It was later named Dyerville, and it was here in 1979 that Neil and Dawn McCallum planted a vineyard.  The area subsequently became known as the Martinborough Terrace, now famous for Pinot Noir.

McCallum is an opinionated winemaker, a committed “terroirist,” who is highly respected by his peers.  His wines have achieved cult status in New Zealand, although he never submits the wines for judging.  At Dry River there is no tasting room, yet the wines are quickly sold to an eager mailing list of customers.  A few bottles are exported to the U.S., Asia, and the U.K.. The wines of Dry River are known for their longevity.  A tasting McCallum staged with Bob Campbell MW in 2004, and reported in The World of Fine Wine (Issue 19, 2008), revealed that older vintages of Pinot Noir dating back to 1989 were still youthful.  Campbell enthusiastically described the wines as showing “high levels of flavor intensity and ripeness, and impressive longevity.”  McCallum uses little oak (20%), and the Pinot Noirs have high levels of grape tannins, requiring 3 to 4 years to start opening up.

In 2002, the winery and 30 acres of vineyards were sold for $7 million with the new owners infusing cash for expansion and updated equipment.  McCallum has remained on as the chief winemaker.  McCallum writes extensively and his musings are posted on the Dry River website under the “Jottings” heading (www.dryriver.co.nz).  You fill find these essays very scholarly, informative and insightful.

2006 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., $80.
Approaching Syrah in color and structure.  Very contemplative nose showing nuanced scents of a variety of wild dark berries, with noticeable oak-derived notes of spice, browned marshmallow, brandy and vanilla.  Utterly amazing intense and saturating flavors of plums, blackberries and currants with a savory, woodsy undertone, and a hint of tangerine peel on the extremely long finish.  Easy to mistake for a young Grands Cru Burgundy with the tip off being the amazing persistence at the end.  A truly unique Pinot Noir of great distinction that stands out from the New World crowd.  Serve this wine blind to any of your Pinot geek buddies, let them try to guess its origin, and you will find many surprised as well as happily satiated winos.

1995 rené engel vosne-romanée 1er les brulees

By billn on February 14, 2010 #degustation

engel-brulees

Yes I know it’s (yet) another Vosne, but my 1999 Pavelot Dominode was corked – honest – at least this is a good bottle 😉

1995 René Engel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Brulees
Medium rusty-red colour, more rust than red at the edges. Forward aromas of part fresh, part baked red fruits over a sterner and much more mineral depth – a raspberry jelly aroma is one of the last from the glass. Impact in the mouth – this isn’t a wine that widens across the palate, it starts at full width. Velvet tannin that is faintly edged with astringency and a fresh burst of dimension across the mid-palate. The mineral aroma is also reflected in the flavours. A success! The fruit flavours remain relatively primary, take that together with the slight astringency and I would guesstimate that this is at least 5 or 6 years from being ‘mature’
Rebuy – Yes

Interesting eh? A premier cru that needs 20 years to be mature, yet most publications tell us to drink in the first 5 years…

this week’s reading…

By billn on February 13, 2010 #other sites

Just a few things that have passed over my desk in the last week:

  • Tim Atkin has more free time. I really don’t know if it due to the growth of wine-writing on the internet, or whether it is the more simplistic (general) loss of revenue suffered by traditional news media at the hands of the internet, either way, one of our best wine communicators has found himself with more leisure time. I read that he regularly received 500 emails a week from the paper’s readers – I wonder how many of the paper’s remaining journalists are so ‘interactive’ with their audience(?)
  • The cork industry is preparing a €20m advertising campaign using cork’s ‘scientific background’ to convince the public of its benefits.” It seems that they have (already) largely lost the battle for the ‘pop and pour’ market, only great performance will (eventually) save them in the high-quality area. I am the first to admit that DIAMs are great and that quality bottles seem to have a much lower incidence of TCA in the last vintages – but my 99 Pavelot Dominode was corked yesterday!
  • Romanée-Conti 2007. It must be that time of year, the first notes for the 2007s are beginning to creep out. Looks like I didn’t get my invite this year after declining last year – though I did only decline due to a heavy cold – I assumed it would have be frowned upon to cough and sniff over Aubert 😉
  • Eric LeVine’s CellarTracker. I can’t believe Jancis didn’t mention that I was partnered up with CellarTracker long before Burghound and Vinfolio 😉 Anyway this is a nice portrait of a genuine and enthusiastic guy…

my NoteFinder sucks…, so…

By billn on February 11, 2010 #site updates

As mentioned in a post last week, the original notefinder application is becoming close to useless – killed by the rising number of users.

So whilst my new version is not (functionally) complete – ie the links to appellations, profiles and websites etc. are not currently working, and the tasting dates are wrong – the note finding part itself seems to function absolutely fine.

So please feel free to point your searching habits to the NoteFinder (2) here – let’s call it the ‘alpha’ version 😉

d’ardhuy 2005 vosne-romanée 1er les chaumes (+ being boring!)

By billn on February 10, 2010 #degustation

I realised that I have become rather predictable after tidying in the cellar this weekend – I started to dig out bottles that needed revisiting, only to realise that almost every second bottle came from Vosne-Romanée. I had a similar feeling last year when most came from Gevrey…

I suppose that I have at least made a token move south in the Côte d’Or, but maybe I need to to make a late new year resolution – only to buy wines from south of Vosne for the rest of 2010! I certainly don’t have enough Nuits, Ladoix, Aloxe, Pernand, Beaune………

2005 d’Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes
Deeply coloured. The nose has dark, brambly fruit and plenty of spicy, herbal aspects. In the mouth the acidity has become a little forward though far from overwhelming. A lovely borderline ripe flavour that has a hint of mint to go with its piercingly long finish – there’s added depth through the mid-palate. Rather smooth, this is very good now – even if it’s on its ‘sleeptime downslope’. Very-much enjoyed.
Rebuy – Yes

2001 chandon de brailles corton maréchaudes

By billn on February 09, 2010 #degustation

chandon_marechaudes

2001 Chandon de Briailles, Corton Maréchaudes
Medium, medium-pale. The nose is oh-so scented, an obvious note of stems is intertwined with floral aspects over warm, red fruit – raspberry. Smooth and balanced, with an almost ethereal melting flavour impression. Like the nose it’s a warm red ‘comforting wine’ impression. It’s very ‘giving’ but that’s far from the same thing as ‘mature’ – tasty now but will live and growfor many years in the cellar…
Rebuy – Yes

great info…

By billn on February 07, 2010 #other sites

It’s easy to throw bricks at the demenour of many participants on the eRobertParker web-forum, but it is (sans doubt) one of the best sources of info – provided you follow the right people 😉

Kevin Harvey is a winemaker whose posts on burgundy I enjoy following. Here he is, just back from a trip to burgundy with tons of useful and interesting information; 2007,2008,2009 vintages, p.ox and even “Gout Moisi-terreux” – frankly something which I haven’t heard very much about. It’s worth you working your way through the (currently) 2 pages as conversations develop and are added to by other winemakers like Blair Pethel.

NB: I didn’t point you in this direction just because everything he says is pretty-much in-line with what I’ve been writing here for months 🙂

david clark 2006 passetoutgrains

By billn on February 05, 2010 #degustation

clark-passetoutgrains

2006 David Clark, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Deep colour – plenty of purple too. The nose shows lots of reduction – about 90 minutes is needed for it to fade though it is never completely gone – deep brambly fruit and a herbal top-note. Linear entry and rather fine tannin – good balancing acidity that amplifies and widens the flavours across the mid-palate – it finishes really impressively. This is a relatively big wine – much more so than the domaine’s 2006 Morey St.Denis for instance. Well-done!
Rebuy – Yes

updating for the next days

By billn on February 04, 2010 #other sites#site updates

Just a quick apology and pre-apology!

The apology is for those users of the NoteFinder:

Leider benötigt Ihr Web im Moment 260 MB RAM. Ihnen stehen laut Vertrag jedoch nur 64 MB zu. Daher haben wir uns entschlossen Ihr Web auf 160 MB RAM zu begrenzen. Dies ist aus Schutz, da Sie sonst im schlimmsten Fall den ganzen Server für andere Kunden blockieren bzw. die Performance erheblich beeinträchtigen.

That basically mean that the ‘application’ is too successful so they will now make it fail in order to push me to spend 10x what I currently spend to make it work – nice huh! So sorry to those users that are fed up with how it works right now.

The pre-apology is because a few things could get quirky around here while I move it – TADA! – to a new solution. Hopefully it will be online by the weekend and will work 🙂

Apology mode over!

And now, from The PourA bargain at half the price

Burgundy Report

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