Given the long run of Alex’s 2007 and 2008 Bourgogne Chardonnay chez nous, I casually asked Alex how his 2009 was tasting – ‘delicious’ was his answer. Okay, an introductory 6-pack was comandeered – so, is it up to scratch?

2009 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Chardonnay
The nose is rather rich for the appellation, showing a little brioche and with a swirl some ripe fruit. More than a hint of minerality and with a nice initial acidity before filling out in a richer vernacular. It does taste very nice but from the mid-palate onwards I’d just like a hint more acidity. I have to say, the wine was easily despatched, and Alex was right it is very tasty, but based on the mid-palate and finish I would probably would look elsewhere when it comes to re-stocking the cellar – probably to the 2010 now the 2008s are exhausted!
Rebuy – Maybe

What better way to start the day than with a trio of Blair Pethel’s Beaunes? All were tasted with Blair last Wednesday (21st).

2007 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs
I still have a few bottles of this and it has been unremittingly lovely at home. The nose offers of a wide perspective of relatively complex but perhaps a slightly diffuse interest. In the mouth this is the lovely middleweight I recall; wide, subtle and complex – just a very pretty glass of wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs
There are aromatic similarities between this and the 2007 – wide, interesting yet perhaps just a little diffuse – the fruit just needs a little polish to bring it completely into focus. In the mouth this is a little less like the 07 – clearly there’s another level of intensity, the flavour just grows and grows. Different in character but with similar interest.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Dublère, Beaune 1er Les Blanches Fleurs
Today there is more obvious barrel note on the nose, some herbal complexity too – I find more clarity though than for 07 and 08. Apparently not the same level of intensity delivered by the 08, but there is an understated complexity and a very impressive finish indeed.
Rebuy – Yes

Overall, Blair has faithfully translated the vintage characters into his wines; 07 is softer and very pretty, 08 riding on its acidity is the more intense, whereas 09 delivers extra depth (and perhaps concentration too) but without the intensity that an extra drop of acidity brings. A very fine trio!

Okay, I’m not quite comparing the same wine as the vintages are not quite a match, but they are new wines in my cellar, so…

2009 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers les Dents du Chien
After the 2010 Bouton, this has a little brioche on the nose with higher-toned, faintly agrume fruit. There is more depth and concentration than apparent in the Bouton, if slightly less acidity – so there doesn’t seem to be quite the intensity – but there remains despite the extra richness, balance, and more to contemplate. Very good wine, but then it should be for twice the price of the Bouton 😉 Still an easy rebuy for me.
Rebuy – Yes

The Bouton 09 St.Aubins became the cuvée maison chez Nanson last year – let’s see how some 10s stack up…

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er Murgers les Dents du Chien
Pale colour. High-toned, fresh, crisp with a fain creamy depth to some herby fruit – rather engaging. Fresh, but not overly so. A decently silky texture and a very nice intensity in the mid palate. Slightly green-tinged fruit in the finish. Tip-top wine for the price.
Rebuy – Yes