friday in sunny chassagne before the autoroute

By billn on October 25, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Friends arrive for the weekend today – but in Switzerland! So time for just one visit this morning, in Chassagne, before heading home.

Picture-perfect blue sky. Still about 10° cooler – we didn’t really reach 10°C until lunchtime. Hopefully it’s still as pretty when I get back next Monday. Hopefully Beaune will be a little easier to navigate next week – this week, roads kept being closed for putting up the Christmas lights!

Hmm, only 5 visits in the diary for next week though – so far 😉

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cold, zalto, riedel…

By billn on October 24, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Ouf! Thursday was cooler – we’ve lost 10°C in 12 hours! Thursday had a brilliant sunrise (for those heading for early appointments in Maranges!) but stayed very cloudy until late afternoon. By 4pm there were the first flashed of blue sky – but don’t tell the people of St.Romain – it was already black as night when I left there!

In the evening I had a little play with, comparing a Zalto, a Riedel and a 2004 Volnay Champans from Count of Lafon. I didn’t find any pyrazines with either glass, but the aromas were a little more herbal in the Riedel versus the more floral and prettier Zalto. 1:0 to Zalto. In the hand though, I found the Zalto stem disconcertingly narrow and it seemed a little top-heavy. The Riedel seems more balanced in my hand – that could be familiarity of-course – the Riedel was more like an old friend. I prefer drinking with old friends!

But that doesn’t mean I won’t keep having a chat with the Zalto 😉

chevalier for breakfast…

By billn on October 22, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

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Well, somebody has to do it!

This morning the wind had dropped, but there was also a more noticeable chill: 7°C at 07h30. The light was lovely though, and the vines haven’t yet lost all their leaves from the wind! A mix of grander and ‘insider’ domaines today, including one that previously ‘could do better.’ I was invited for lunch – a shock I know – I’m unrepentant, but I don’t have a list of commercials ‘things’ that I have to avoid on my site, so I’m allowed – I consider myself too grown up for that 😉

Back to my apartment in the evening, it’s still chilly – I will have to jog faster – but first, it’s time to eat the Bolognese that I was too scared to eat yesterday while cleaning. Yum!

every week until christmas!

By billn on October 21, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

I arrived in Beaune today, just like I will every week from now until Christmas – some weekends will spent here along the way too. There are just so many 13s to taste and put into some sort of digestible format before the en-primeur offers hit your mailboxes – mainly in January, but some of the schemers (merchants!) are now even sending out their offers in December!

Actually I’d prefer to do all these tastings exactly as I have this year: I mainly tasted the 12s after assembly or bottling. But now I’m up and running with the ‘EXTRA!’ report, readers won’t wait for that – reduced or fizzy people want to know: to buy or not to buy, as Will S would say…

It’s still unseasonably warm here, but it feels just a little cooler because there’s such a gusting wind – occasional heavy downpours too. Still, I’m dry, and despite a little jogging too. I’d planned to crop and post the last of the images for my September report tonight – but it looks like it’s now slipped into Thursday – that’s because a public health imperative intervened! My lodgings were shared with winemakers doing a stage, but now it’s just me – actually not just me – there seemed a mountain of mouldy stuff in the kitchen. I really didn’t know where to put the food I’d just bought. So! Sleeves rolled up, I attacked, defrosted and cleaned the fridge and the freezer. The dishwasher looked frightful too – so all the things that didn’t look properly clean were loaded-up, the ECO program was junked and a long 70°C wash is ensuing as I type. I expect to be able to eat my breakfast from the inside of that machine tomorrow. Okay, gastroenteritis now avoided (hopefully!), I will return to more productive typing tomorrow – oh, but only after visiting 5 domaines…

And for the record, the EXTRA! timetable:

September Issue: This week, is the harvest info issue.
October Issue: Mid-November, is the ‘white domaines’ 2013s issue
November Issue: Mid-December, is the ‘red domaines’ 2013s issue
December Issue: Hopefully as a Christmas present will be the ‘Grandes Maisons 2013s’ as here
January Issue: 2nd half of February, will be the Chablis 2013 issue…

pavillon’s 2012 rugiens

By billn on October 20, 2014 #degustation

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Back into my ‘arrivage‘ stash of 2012 EP wines. I paid a little more for this than previous vintages as I knew it had been decimated by hail, but (Will L!) it still came in at £33 per bottle, delivered to my door…

2012 Domaine du Pavillon, Pommard 1er Rugiens
A deep, almost silky nose of red fruit and some creamy oak complexity. In the mouth there’s good, smooth, power and concentration – good balance too. The fruit is more red than black and shows a nice peak of flavour in the mid-palate – slowly fading on a little vanilla augmentation again. The Bichot house style shows through with this vanilla – though you only get in bottles, not the pre-bottling samples. Still, I’ve tasted enough verticals to know it’s gone before 5 years of age. Almost too hedonistic today, but it will blossom into really good wine with cellar time…
Rebuy – Yes

disappointing ‘wine-writers’

By billn on October 20, 2014 #warning - opinion!

The caveat here, is that I’m talking about some ‘generalist’ wine-writers who occasionally dip their toe into a region, tasting at a few well-manicured addresses, probably sponsored by some ‘body’ or other, and back that up by tasting a bunch of grand crus that start at €100 a bottle. I’ve not been involved in a similar roughing of Twitter feathers before, but these two troll-esque tweets (from writers with over 40k of twitter followers) annoyed me just as much as previous Decanter (harvest) stories that seemed, at the same time, sensationalist yet lacking any real depth of comment or apparent knowledge:
Well, that’s my perjorative, clearly biased opinion based on what I read, anyway 😉

I assumed the first was tongue in cheek – and I like to have a laugh – but prodding showed that this was indeed Will’s thinking despite initially teasing-out that he was talking about ‘only the very best!’ His views seemed to harden and widen in the ‘conversation’ that followed. Hopefully he goes out and visits in more depth than I fear will be the case. As for Jamie – sorry, but that comment does not come up to his usual standards. There is much more to this if you wish to follow the conversations in the links above. Unfortunately, Twitter becomes unwieldy and close to useless once more than a couple of people are ‘involved’ in a conversation…

I pondered writing this, mainly because it seemed too self-serving, but the fact is, you need specialists if you want to know what to buy. Jancis’s site is going that way with multiple contributors, but already you have Roy Hersh for Port, Chris Kissack for Bordeaux and Loire, Burghound, maybe Neal Martin, maybe me for Burgundy – but for god’s sake, don’t read magazine/newspaper style columns hoping get useful info. World of Fine Wine is an exception, but has such lead-times you could never describe it as a guide for buying.

My basic premise is: Yes indeed Burgundy has become expensive for a certain niche producer list, put another way ‘no shit Sherlock.’ But a journalist can’t just say ‘I’m telling it like it is’ without actually showing some groundwork on which their opinions are formed. Actually, I’d be much more amenable if they simply said ‘In my opinion, Burgundy has a vanishing level of relevance because of xxxx, yyyy and zzzz‘ substantiating their words…

But we all know the phrase about ‘opinions’ – mine too! 😉

patrice et maxime rion’s 2012 chambolle fuées

By billn on October 17, 2014 #degustation

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I’m delving into my small but perfectly formed ‘arrivage’ of 4 different 2012 en-primeurs. The white Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet from Dubreuil-Fontaine is already two great bottles down – only 4 left – will they see out 2014? – maybe not! Today there’s the Fuées from Patrice Rion – I note that son Maxime now has his name on this négoce label too!

2012 Patrice et Maxim Rion, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Hmm. A faint whiff of oak spice but it’s engulfed by smooth, dark-red fruit of fine depth – yum – even before it hits the tongue. Super-smooth on the palate with a faint undertow of oak, but such is the fineness of texture I expect even an oak-a-phobe will be purring. Full, round, and with perfect balance. There was no shame at all in opening this baby of a bottle.
Rebuy – Yes

birthday, sights and wines…

By billn on October 16, 2014 #degustation#travel

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Tuesday was an early start from Basel – we were in London by 09h00. Breakfast, hotel check-in, then to Fine + Rare wines for a fine and rare tasting; 38 bottles of 2011 Clos de Vougeot. Notes will be in My October EXTRA! by 20th November.

Did I mention a hotel check-in? I was led into the Shangri-la at the Shard, it wasn’t the hotel I thought we’d booked – what a birthday surprise! And, of-course the Clos Prieur was good!

Burgundy Report

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