a little wine, weekend 7, 2017

By billn on February 20, 2017 #degustation

2001 Albert Bichot, Vosne-Romanée
This was actually the wine the ‘turned me on’ to Albert Bichot as a producer – bought in 2003 – this could also be my last bottle of those 2001s – but what a bottle to finish on! It has simply a beautifully aromatic, and is beautifully complex, gorgeously tasty wine – no villages from Engel, that I’ve had, has been particularly better. Actually this wine has lasted much better than some I can mention from 2001 – here’s looking at you, 2001 Mugneret-Gibourg! Actually that MG was last drunk over 3 years ago – maybe it’s filled out again(?) – I should check that out, I’m sure I’ve at least one more. But, back to this one: modest colour, everything else is on a level that you’d assume you were drinking a 15 year-old 1er cru, not a villages. Bravo! Do you still remember being able to buy Villages Vosne for €22?
Rebuy – I wish!

1976 Reserves des Dieux, Richebourg
The cork looked like it would be welded into the neck, but with only the slightest touch with the end of the corkscrew it started to slip down the neck – there would be no saving this one – prepare the funnel and decanter, and push the cork all the way in!
This is my second (and last) of these bottles – and both showed remarkably similarly despite about 4 years separating their consumption. This is only very modestly coloured, but with a real core of red colour – not brown. The nose is round, sweet, and still quite toasty – there’s a suggestion of brett, but it’s the tiniest accent and it never gets bigger. It’s an interesting if not completely gorgeous nose. The palate has volume and a weight of sweet flavour – more than the colour would suggest. There’s still a little oomph and some latent tannin in the finish, though clearly much of the original tannin now adheres to the inside of the bottle. Always interesting, never great, but very easy to finish!
Rebuy – No

2008 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi
Assuming the worst for the previous bottle, this was already waiting in the wings…
Deeper colour than the Richebourg, but still not much more than medium colour. Bright red berry freshness, and a faint herb too – but not much depth of aroma. Fresh in attack – really much more acidity and less sweetness than the Richebourg. This takes two sips to accustomise, then all is well. Still the fresh palate, despite very nice depth of flavour, has just a little less/under-ripe finishing herb about it. A very drinkable wine, though not great, even in a Corton context.
Rebuy – No

well that was a quick change!

By billn on February 15, 2017 #beaujolais#travels in burgundy 2017

Last month in Chablis, my visits were largely in a window of -3°C to -12°C.

This week in Beaujolais, Monday/Tuesday p.m. temperatures were about 12°C, and I’ll admit to having used the aircon in the car at one, seemingly, stressful point as I struggled to find a domaine – often an address in no more than a ‘lieu-dit’ in Beaujolais! But this afternoon, we hit 17°C – that’s summer in the UK! Fortunately, at least today, I knew where I was going 🙂

A few pics from the last couple of days:
 

a little wine, weekend 6, 2017

By billn on February 14, 2017 #degustation

A very modest selection last weekend, but in their own way, all delicious.

2009 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Créot
Red St.Aubin. I bought this in what I thought would be a very handy size – 500ml! Actually, it seems that they just empty faster – at least in this delicious case. Domestic management helped more than usual, as she thought it delicious too! Red fruited, and the freshness of St.Aubin dovetailing beautifully with the vintage – still a little richness of flavour but balanced until it was gone!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Jean-Marc Bouley, Volnay 1er Les Carelles
What a big fruit bomb this currently is! The texture is great and there is much richness of fruit-forward flavour – it’s delicious – though today watch out for a sneaky vanilla aromatic which is at best distracting. Otherwise simply a great thing!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Clos de la Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie
Just like last week, to prepare my for the week ahead – but here an early 2015. What a luscious and deeply flavoured wine – layered and absolutely delicious (again – 3 from 3 this weekend!) wine. 2015 is about separating out the hard to drink (just now) from the far too easy to drink – and this is in that latter category!
Rebuy – Yes

week 1 of bo-jo-lays visits…

By billn on February 11, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017

A few faces from my first week of February visits in Beaujolais – and there are two more weeks to come.

I’m sure you noted how quiet it was here last week – the internet in my Beaujolais hotel is basically non-existent – pff! Not much I can do about that, and it won’t be any better in the two weeks to come, but occasional tweets via my phone still seem to escape the hills of Beaujolais…

last week’s wines…

By billn on February 08, 2017 #degustation

A nice mix of bottles, drunk the week before I went to Beaujolais:

2013 Clothilde Davenne, Chablis Bougros
What a lovely, lovely wine. None of the overt botrytis apricot and fast development of a lot of Chablis in 2013 – yet – this was open and frankly delicious. Good scale and lots of sweet freshness. Super-easy to appreciate – which is anyway the vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

2015 des Malandes, Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
Ooh… That’s nice! There is a just a little richness of texture – and that’s exactly what the doctor ordered, because – this has such a brilliant line of pure minerality – there are accents of citrus, but this is a finely textured, linear, mineral wine with just enough ‘extra’ to avoid any suggestion of austerity. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay 1er Caillerets
Actually quite a big nose; round, fruited – not the clarity of a great year – but inviting, all the same. Broad, lovely texture and a good weight of flavour. tasty wine!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Jean Raphet, Clos de Bèze
A lovely, complex nose to start – some early notes of maturity – tough eventually they hover very close to a hint of brett – never enough to put me off though 😉 In the mouth this is simply excellent – maybe it could have a little more weight, but this is beautiful over the palate, changing, complex flavour. Really super.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos Marion
My last bottle from a case of 12; if I remember correctly, one was corked, the rest have all been lovely. This, the last, was really the best. In terms of ultimate deliciousness, it was even better than the Raphet, though less complex and mid-palate weight. Just a great bottle. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

And just to get me started for a week in Beaujolais…

2014 Clos de la Chapelle des Bois, Fleurie
Really a different aromatic register. full, open bright and floral red fruit. The texture is good, the concentration is good – everybody at the table said ‘yum!’ – You can’t ask for more for €10!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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