ponsot’s 2009 griotte

By billn on April 12, 2017 #degustation

A cellar search for something ‘disruptive and belligerent‘ – Laurent Ponsot is certainly disruptive so this was not a bad choice. Actually I was surprised to note that even the 2009s bear his domaine name stamped into the base of the bottle – I had assumed that this was, relatively, a more recent change. I went back through some older bottles to see when it started – the 2008s are stamped, the 2007s not…

2009 Ponsot / des Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin
The colour is relatively modest – it least with 2015s in mind – though not brilliantly bright. The first sniff is round and tight but within minutes the aromas open their arms with complexity and depth, first with a silky and deep red cherry and then adding mineral complexity and even more width and depth – ooh – this is one of the best things that I’ve sniffed in a long time – it’s that good! Medium weight, silky wine but with a growing intensity of fine flavour that persists as well as a 2015. For such a baby, this an über-covetable wine. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines – week 14 2017

By billn on April 09, 2017 #degustation

The sun was out and I’d also spent some time with wines from Mâcon last week – so why not keep it going over the weekend?

2014 Château des Rontets, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Birbettes
Medium yellow colour. The nose is fresh waft of lemon curd – very attractive. Lovely in the mouth, incisive enough but at the same time perfectly textured – direct, modestly mineral, refreshingly intense. Just a really great young wine. Only the finish has an extra accent of oak, but really nothing that would put me off and the flavour is so mouth-watering. Really a high-class PF…
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Domaine de la Sarazinière, Bourgogne Aligoté Clos des Bruyères
A wine that starts with a little toasty reduction, but as it opens it becomes an ever finer and bright, pure citrus nose. Silky, bright and with just a little citrus and mineral length – don’t let this get too warm or flavours broaden and become less precise. With cheese or with barbecue, this was just a super wine – very yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Céline et Laurent Tripoz, Crémant de Bourgogne Nature
A modest golden colour. The nose has hints of sherry, beer, apple and a fine mandarin note too. In the mouth this has a really fine width of flavour, super freshness and a fine cooked apple. Extra complex in the finish and it’s a fine and long finish. Despite some parts of my note, this is not really an oxidative style in the mouth – like many champagnes today – simply a very delicious wine. The bottle won’t last long!
Rebuy – Yes

the last few days on tour…

By billn on April 07, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017

A collection of images from this week – the obligatory bud-burst picture above from today in Mâcon-Cruzilles – so chardonnay. Cruzilles is a relatively cool spot, so not so advanced as Meursault, for example. Versus an ‘average year’ the vines are about 10 days ahead so far in 2017. I toured some of the vines with Emmanuel Guillot-Broux and found the horse working in a parcel of Cruzille called Le Chassagne – nothing to do with the Côte d’Or, rather old French for the oaks at the top of the hill – les chênes…
 

2009 château des jacques oak-a-go-go

By billn on April 06, 2017 #beaujolais

2009 Château des Jacques, Moulin à Vent
Champ de Cour

Still quite a deep colour, not too much maturity. The nose is large, forward, sweet and cushioned – but this potentially delicious red fruit is still completely wrapped in vanilla oak – how did that happen?! This is supple and round with juicy, sweet fruit on the palate – like the nose this is seemingly delicious until the finish catches up with you – which is also a long line of vanilla flavour. I’m frankly amazed – first and last this wine still has too much vanilla – it seems that it will never fade. Beware all your gamay-based wines that ‘seem‘ to have too much vanilla but you decide to give them the benefit of the doubt because they are ‘young’ – it seems that they actually do have too much vanilla oak. Stuck!
Rebuy – No

another gratuitous bud burst…

By billn on April 06, 2017 #vintage 2017

Yesterday Volnay, today Moulin à Vent’s (Jadot’s) Clos du Grand Carquelin – all here is clearly a week or-so ahead of the Côte d’Or, and apparently we are about 2 weeks ahead of a ‘normal year‘ – whatever one of those is…

Despite the blue sky and sunshine, today was markedly chilly – a strong north wind – it felt much colder than the 15°C on the thermometer. Beaujolais doesn’t seem to be suffering from all those bud-eating caterpillars in the Côte d’Or. I can see a day in the Mâconnais coming tomorrow – all in the interests of science – oh, and drinking wine! 🙂

weekend wines – unlucky week 13? (2017)

By billn on April 04, 2017 #degustation

Actually very lucky!

2014 Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay Clos du Roy
Ooh that’s a lovely nose – deep but round – forward fruit but really only modestly accented with a little roses from the whole clusters. Supple, round but with depth and energy too – great texture. A wine that might best most 2015s from Marsannay. Simply Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Camille Giroud, Corton
Always a secret which lieu-dit this came from! Not the deepest of colour. This has a beautiful nose – direct, fresh, attractive. In the mouth – oof – boy this has zing, juicy zing, a super line of fresh and red-fruited flavour. Less fruit density and this would be verging on too acidic – but here, today, this is simply singing. Bravo again!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Camille Giroud, Corton-Charlemagne
Truth be told, my last one of these was a little brown and massively advanced – I’m now in ‘drinking mode’ as far as this cuvée is concerned. Deep colour, but not the pale brown of the last bottle. Actually quite a fresh nose, if with a faint whiff of cooking apple. The palate is full, mouth-watering and delicious – very long. Not quite the dream wine of its youth, but very good – though for obvious reasons, not a re-buy…
Rebuy – No

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