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above average weekend wines…

There were only two – but when not going for quantity, what else is one to do? 😉

The ‘Gevrey was just perfect; only medium bodied but supple, open and super complex with a nose to die for – wines like this really don’t last very long.

So what about a ‘Chablis‘? Here is another wine that just hit the spot. This wine seems to defy aging, rather it just adds a twist more complexity to the nose each time I revisit. It remains a gorgeous thing…

And watch out – later today, my 2013 White Burgundy, EXTRA! report…

very rare birds…

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Perhaps I should save the word ‘dregs’ for another sentence, but here are the last drops of 2013 Musigny and 2013 Montrachet. It was a very good end to the week’s tastings…

living the dream…

Well, what a difference – Beaune tonight @ 23h00 – nobody!

It’s cool and a little shivery though – or maybe that’s just me, not yet quite recovered from my lunch on Monday. The food tasted great, the people were a hoot – and the wines? Well, at some point, adjectives lose their impact…

But something disagreed with me though, and I was totally frozen for the next 8 hours – including in bed. I don’t think I can blame that on the wine – though maybe my head today 😉

Anyway, some nice addresses today, and it goes without saying great wines too, but today I found it easier to spit – ah, living the dream!

Also, finally met up with @winewomansong tonight – it was great to have a bitch about almost everybody – but the poor girl was very tired. I told her to go to bed without wifi. What an old man I am!

Monday lunch:

Some visits today:

beaune on a busy weekend…

I thought the mass of people in Beaune might have peaked yesterday evening, but clearly THE Sunday has another level. So instead of fighting for a place to drink coffee we chose make a walking tour of Meursault, and like any Sunday afternoon in Meursault the place was completely dead – pretty but almost a ghost-town. Still, it meant that I could poke my nose into a few corners and see a few lunch preparations!

There’s been on-and-off rain all weekend, indeed it was pretty heavy on Friday – probably perfect for teasing-out all the snalls from their lairs, because mountains of snails seem to have been consumed in Beaune this weekend – I’m not sure it’s really rain-clouds above, they have a green tinge – I think it’s garlic!

Ah yes, now I remember what’s happening in Beaune!

First, Meursault:

And then I think this is Beaune! :

friday & saturday – busy, busy in beaune…

It’s hard to avoid the crowds in Beaune as you close in on the weekend – is something happening? Today was just manic in the centre. I find it best to try and find a quiet cellar – particularly when it has a nice 62 to taste – oops, I mean drink!!!!

Friday:

Today:

yesterday…

Today will be a busy day – perhaps over-exercising the palate! But the following were taken yesterday…

news for burgundy report…

I just wanted to keep you updated with content and news for Burgundy Report.

First – thanks to all my subscribers in this launch year – you are managing to make an old man very happy. Thank-you! I’m currently working through masses of 2013s to get the reports online in the next weeks. My time-table for you is as follows:
2014 EXTRA!
October Report: Focusing on ‘domaine’ 2013 vintage whites (next week)
November Report: Focusing on ‘domaine’ 2013 vintage reds (mid December)
December Report: Grands Maisons 2013s (before Christmas lunch – I hope!)
2015 EXTRA!
January: Chablis 2013
February: Mâconnais 2013

And for those of you who hated the Paypal approach to subscribing, there is now a new credit-card payment option. Hopefully this avoids the issues for those that who found things not to their liking! Here: https://www.burgundy-report.com/subscribe/?level=1

Second – for 2015, I’m working on a big Paulée event in the Swiss capital – Bern. More info for you on that very soon.

Lastly – The Burgundy Report site needs restructuring after 12 years of organic growth. Changes are afoot but it will be 2015 before a new face shows itself!

That’s all for now
Many thanks to you all, again…

a new domaine to follow…

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Another domaine to add to the Rebourgeon clan(s) of Pommard. I tasted the 2013s this week and found them lovely – not dissimilar to Rebourgeon-Mure (cousins) whose plots are often side-by-side.

The wine above was fresh and tasty – despite hailing from 2003…!

offer of the day – Faiveley 2013…

DOMAINE FAIVELEY 2013 – En Primeur

PREMIERS CRUS
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2013 75 cl 72.50 (69.80*) Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2013 75 cl 98.00 (98.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées 2013 75 cl 119.00 (119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2013 75 cl 119.00 (119.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2013 75 cl 228.00 (228.00)

Corton Clos des Cortons 2013 75 cl 139.00 (139)
Corton Clos des Cortons 2013 150 cl 283.00 (283)
Mazis-Chambertin 2013 75 cl 167.00 (169)
Grands Echezeaux 2013 75 cl 198.00 (—)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2013 75 cl 249.00 (235)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2013 150 cl 503.00 (475)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Les Ouvrées Rodin 2013 75 cl 598.00 (598)

Corton Charlemagne 2013 75 cl 169.00 (159)

*Same merchant, 2012 prices. As we can see, largely, steady as she goes…
(8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices)

fluffy clouds & autumn colour…


Perhaps a little sad on my part – but great clouds before it got dark yesterday 😉 Actually it was a very clear-skied night, so much so that the Hautes Côtes had their first frost of the Autumn – but beautiful skies and colours in abundance today, interspersed between tastings in Vougeot, Gevrey and Vosne. Dinner with Jancis and Neal where we put the world to rights too!

Probably no time to post anything tomorrow, but I’ll be starting in Pommard, moving to Nuits (to congratulate Jacques Desvauges, the (soon to be) winemaker at Clos de Tart and then finishing at an address in Marsannay!

to be, or not to be, 2004…

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I know, I know, ‘here we go again’ you are thinking. Well yes, and no…

I’ve actually tried a few very good 2004s in the last days – I looked very hard at them, but found nothing amiss. So everything’s alright now say some. Hold your horses say I! The three wines that were fine, in every way, have not suddenly got better and lost their pyrazines – not as far as I know anyway – because I’d never tasted these wines before (as far as I remember) so I don’t know how good or bad they were before. But let’s be fair to those good wines and note them here, because I’d happily drink all three again:

2004 Domaine Lafon, Volnay 1er Champans
2004 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
2004 Maison Lucien Le Moine, Clos St.Denis

But all is still not rosy. On Saturday, a gathering of friends delivered many bottles; some great, some sad, some in-between – it also, most importantly, delivered a great evening. It wasn’t at my house, so I’m not responsible – but I know all-too-well the urge, late in the evening to finish the evening off (maybe ;-)) with something special. So it was with our host: He returned with a magnum in a blind-tasting sock. My pour looked young in the glass but -ouf! – smelled strongly of pyrazines. I immediately said ‘2011!’ As I slowly pulled up the ‘sock’ I read the words Clos de Tart. I was pretty shocked – why would anyone open such a young magnum? But soon I found I was wrong, it wasn’t 2011, it was the 2004 in the headline image above. Okay, now I’m no-longer mad with my host – maybe there is a case for opening magnums of 2004! I was fooled by the young colour and the silky freshness of the wine – hard to believe a wine in such great, young condition was a 2004. It was also a great wine; a German winemaker amongst our number loved it but could also see and taste the character. But it was strong enough that (not only) I couldn’t enjoy it.

So another 2004 I hadn’t tasted before – but this time with a different result. Is the difference in this case only the format, and the relative youth of this wine, whilst all the others are getting older and better? Well, let’s see. Every couple of years I retest a number of retained bottles – but that’s not due until early 2016…

But let’s not forget a great evening:

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By the way:
1999 Roulot Bourgogne surprisingly fresh if a little rich – did somebody really say Corton-Charlemagne?
1993 Leflaive Bourgogne – brilliant, but (very!) unfortunately, it was my last. My white of the night.
Thevenot 1979 was just lovely in that indeterminable age-ness thing.
JM Vincent’s 2010 Auxey was also lovely – as would have been expected, if everything wasn’t blind! I couldn’t make my mind up if was Puligny or St.Aubin…
2003 Pommard was, well, quite nice and I can’t remember what I guessed, but not 2003.
Swiss Wolfer? I really didn’t like – I said Beaujolais as I thought carbonic maceration but really couldn’t place it in Burgundy (go figure…!)
1994 Drouhin Musigny? Given the general poorness of the vintage, this triumphed to be wine of the night – I thought it a rather beautiful 1985!
2008 Claude Dugat Gevrey was a wine I could drink all night – yes the acidity of 08 but like biting into fresh fruit – almost my (red) wine of the night.
JM Pillot’s 2009 in isolation would have been nice enough, but in this company – particularly set against the Dugat, it was simply too full and too ripe to take a second glass.
Dominique Laurent’s 1998 Gevrey Cazetiers – completely and overwhelmingly corked – ouf!
Gaunoux Pommard – I forget it – I think it may also have been corked!
Jadot’s 1993 Clos des Corvées is at it’s first plateau of maturity – it is lovely and still with a bite of Premeaux tannin…
Dubiously labelled Clos St.Denis – villages standard wine, maybe…
Jean-Michel Guillon’s 2003 (I think!) Gevrey VV – tasty but but a lot of funkiness on the nose…
Denis Mortet’s 2004 Lavaux was lovely, cushioned, fine wine.
Clos de Tart 2004 – well you already know – for some people, great wine.
Benoit’s Tante Berthe – well, it wasn’t really a great tribute to him – a bit hot with unbalanced, spiky acidity – shame.
And to finish, 2005 Francois Jobard’s Meursault Genevrières – now that was a nice wine!

de l’eau…

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I drove to the Côtes yesterday evening – it started dry in Switzerland, but it soon got very wet in France. Only the last few kms before Beaune allowed me the luxury of ‘intermittent’ windscreen-wipers! It seems that the department of the Côte d’Or got it (the rain!) quite badly – about 1 month’s rain in 24 hours. The Côte d’Or itself seemed to have only very limited patches of standing-water in the vines, but my first appointment today was at Vougeraie in Premeaux – Pierre Vincent was having to pump-out some of his cellar – “Perfect humidity” he quipped, also noting “That’s why it’s called Premeaux – it’s the first with water!”

Hard to believe, but it was actually dry today (post-7am!) and the first rays of sun shone just an hour before darkness. Cool dark clouds as a backdrop!

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