offer of the day – marc morey 2019

By billn on August 06, 2021 #the market

As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. I don’t find any older prices for comparison.

This is a very good, seemingly often overlooked, producer. I always love the Virondot – and you can’t buy it anywhere else! 🙂

Domaine Marc Morey 2019

Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2019 75cl 48.00* (Swiss Francs)
Chassagne-Montrachet 2019 75cl 59.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 72.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2019 75cl 74.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 37.5cl 47.00
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2019 75cl 88.00
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2019 75cl 92.00

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…

3 whites for hot days – remember those?

By billn on August 04, 2021 #degustation

3 whites for a hot day...

2019 Jean-Charles Fagot, Bourgogne CĂ´te d’Or Les Champs Huillier
Is Jean-Charles a restauranteur, a winemaker or drummer? – we should know! This from vines close to Chassagne
A very attractive citrus nose, green-citrus. A nice vibration of energy in the mouth, slightly saline and a little mineral too – refreshing and delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Chablis 1975
Not the domaine’s oldest vines but they are separated into a cuvĂ©e because it’s the birth year of both CĂ©line & FrĂ©dĂ©ric!
A more compact nose, still with citrus but the salinity is more to the fore here – as it should be! A wave of concentrated flavour and freshness in the mouth – at the same time it seems a more direct energy too. Delicious again.
Rebuy – Yes

2016 François André, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Vergelesses Blanc
A much broader and more concentrated aromatic than the last two – though not even a suggestion of ‘heavy‘ only ‘more.’ In the mouth this is similarly concentrated with super-impressive depth and width of flavour too – so complex – bravo! Yet. For me, there’s still far too much creamy oak flavour in the middle and finishing flavours. Such an excellent wine but after 4 years in a bottle it’s still too oaky.
Rebuy – Maybe for my taste but yours may vary…

weekend stuff – week 30 2021

By billn on August 02, 2021 #degustation

weekend wines week 30 2021

the good, the bad and the ugly...You could call the seals to the right the good, the bad and the ugly – but those names don’t tally with the physical appearances:

The clean-cut Nomacorc is the villain of the bunch – the first incarnation of this cane-sugar development was an utter disaster for all the wines I bought that were sealed with it – this Alsace grand cru is, I hope, the last Nomacorc in my cellar to be completely oxidised – far, far worse and much more consistently oxidised than with cork. Everyone tells me that the latest development of Nomacorc is working well – which I can accept – but I won’t forget all the bottles I poured away. The semi-rubble of the Pommard Epenots still did a proper job for 30 years so complaints. As for the Brocard DIAM – the Gautheron wears DIAM too – nothing to complain about, as usual…

So you already know that the Seppi Landmann Alsace Grand Cru was irretrievably oxidised and you’ve already seen a note for the Pommard. The 2019 Gautheron Chablis Emeraude remains consistent with previous notes and was delicious. The 2018 Brocard Chablis Boissinneuse is starting to come good – I initially found it a little too easy and insufficiently taut – I think it’s going to come around fine – assuming I have sufficient patience!

So, to the two Beaujolais:

2019 Frederic Berne, Régnié Aux Bruyères
The first vintage of this wine chez Frederic…
There’s a little more fruity oomph about this nose than I saw at the domaine but still the pretty dark fruits are in play. Good initial impact and a sophisticated delivery of texture and flavour. I see a little less energy here than I remember but, all the same, it’s a completely delicious wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
The classic cuvĂ©e of this domaine…
Instantly attractive nose. The impact and silk of the last wine with just a little more energetic zip. Mineral, mouth-watering depth of very fine fruit – yes, Fleurie fruit – this is already showing better than when I bought a six-pack at the start of the year. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

two reds…

By billn on July 29, 2021 #degustation

Lapalu Alma Mater - Vaudoisey-Creusefond Pommard Epenots1992 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard 1er Les Epenots
This cork required some dexterity – one major piece but with multiple fissures and plenty of smaller parts – only one larger one dropped into the wine and it was easy to ‘fish’ out…
Medium colour and obviously a wine with some age to that colour. The nose has a little mustiness to start but that fades with air – there’s still fruit here – even a little strawberry! In the mouth, this starts direct and mineral – structural – but I keep my concentration on the sweetness of the unfolding flavours – again a little strawberry-tinged now graphite minerality and an appealing width of ‘sweet but not too sweet.’ The finish starts better than the start but the start keeps getting better – as Donald Rumsfeld might have said! Thats a lovely wine, still vigorous and one that slowly transitions from subtle to ever-more impressive with air. Lovely!
Rebuy – Yes!

2019 Jean-Claude Lapalu, Alma Mater
JC’s amphora cuvĂ©e – he’s been playing with these containers since 2009. All is gamay from Brouilly or Cote de Brouilly – or both – and it’s labelled as Vin de France. This wine also nbeeded some dexterity on opening – this time it was the modest disc of red wax over the cork that fractures into hundreds of pieces!
The nose starts a little dissociated but in only 5 minutes we have beautiful purity of fruit – the aromas redolent of the best of pinot with fruit and flowers – but the flavour is not that of pinot. Vibrantly pure, still framed with a modest texture of tannin but almost juicy finishing too. That’s a beauty!
Rebuy – Yes in a shot!

Well, it was too quiet today!

By billn on July 28, 2021 #the market#vines for sale

Let me know if you’re shocked at such unsubstantiated drivel in these pages or whether you’d like to see much more 🙂

I’ve been storing up the rumours and other ‘non-announced’ changes for some time, so why not let’s run through a few of them – I can only get in trouble for suggesting such heresies!

The highest category of unconfirmed rumour:
La Grande Rue & La Tâche(Right: La Grande Rue and La Tâche.) I recently visited Domaine Lamarche in Vosne – and what a beautiful range of 2020s Nicole Lamarche has produced!

Only afterwards, discussing my visits with others, was I exposed to the rumours of an imminent €800 million payment by LVMH for the domaine – this seemed to be corroborated by a second source who, according to them, noted that LVMH is currently interviewing for senior winemaking position for the CĂ´te d’Or – assuming they are not looking for the 3rd head of Lambrays in 3 years and that Domaine EugeniĂ© is remaining stable in its 15th year!

But from sources much closer (geographically) to Vosne-RomanĂ©e, it seems that maybe the domaine will actually be splitting without the intervention of LVMH’s financial largesse. La Grande Rue to Nicole Lamarche and all the remaining vineyards to Nathalie Lamarche – note that the domaine has labelled all the wines as Nicole Lamarche since 2018. Nathalie doesn’t have an ‘agricultural structure‘ so those who suggest that they are in the know are placing those remaining vines/appellations with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair in a fermage deal – let’s see – but it would be very good timing for his shiny new cuverie!

There remains the subject of the reported €800 million LVMH acquisition – if such a thing exists – which others suggest it still does – but they are now pointing their fingers in the direction of a famously under-performing domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin. Of course, if such sums of cash are to be believed, then it would have to be Gevrey’s biggest owner of grand crus – no?

And the following are not really rumours – there are simply no press-releases.

1. Domaine Bernard Moreau
For me, a doyenne of Chassagne. This domaine has been run for a number of years by the brothers Alex and Benoit Moreau. The split between the two, apparently, has been coming for a long time but with Benoit well underway building his new winery, possibly ready for the upcoming harvest, I’m awaiting some kind of confirmation on the way forward…

2. Domaines Duc de Magenta & Vougeraie
The Duc de Magenta’s choice slice of Chassagne, their 4.57 hectare 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle (Monopole), has been leased to Domaine de la Vougeraie from this 2021 vintage. The Magenta estate was 12 hectares, I’ve not heard that any other parts are on the move. It will be virtually the only wine in Vougeraie’s line-up that’s not certified organic – but they are already underway to start this (3-year) certification process.

A short 2021 update

By billn on July 27, 2021 #vintage 2021

This is the week that marks the outliners of veraison – the first berries are changing colour.

There’s been a consistent delivery of rain across the summer – actually dryness that has been punctuated by rain – sometimes heavy, causing short-lived rivers on vineyard paths. That said, coming from a Springtime deficit of rain, the CĂ´te d’Or is now just below or already above the long-term rainfall average – it just depends on the village. Despite many stormy incidents and plenty with hail in the region. the vines have, so far, avoided new incidences.

So far it’s not really been a hot year – plenty of days have exceeded 30°C but there have been many cooler days too. This mix of warm and humid then cooler is keeping the risk of mildew high and oĂŻdium remains an issue. Even a little botrytis can be found – but it’s too late for any treatment for the latter. The last treatments before the harvest will depend on the approach to viticulture of individual domaines but some have already made their last treatments before heading for their summer holidays and others will probably spray for the last time next week.

To date, the general timing of maturity in 2021 still resembles the trio of vintages; 2019, 2016 and 2012.

And, the best thing to do on a rainy Saturday in Beaune:

touring the cĂ´tes last week…

By billn on July 26, 2021 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2021

weekend wines week 28 2021

I suppose I should start with the weekend wines (week 28, 2021)

2019 La Grosse Pierre/Pauline Passot, Chiroubles Claudius
Average of about 80-year-old vines. I’m so glad to have bought a 6-pack of this.
A perfumed and energetic nose – suggesting crunchy fruit and minerality. Depth of flavour, nicely textured and with a wonderful mineral bite. A seriously great wine of energy and flavour dimension – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

1991 Unknow NĂ©goce, Clos St.Denis
Over the last years I’ve seen exactly the same packaging (capsule, short cork, label-font etcetera) on a number of auction bottles in Switzerland. My experience is that they are of modest quality at best, often not a lot better than Bourgogne standard – even the grand crus – some of them I’ve simply used for cooking. This particular bottle is a little better than average – I even chose to take a second glass on both the first and second evenings I tried it. Not bad…
Rebuy – No

2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
A nice long cork – 54mm and untreated it seems. For this bottle it’s done its job – most of my 2010s are dead but this is very much alive.
Alive, though a little tight: The nose is narrow but deep – flinty-mineral in style but almost absent of fruit. In the mouth it’s broad and complex – very mineral, not fully delicious, but impressively complex. The finish is very long. I assume a tight phase – it was certainly more delicious when younger but this particular bottle has held up well.
Rebuy – No

Just a few places from last week:

2007 L&A Lignier Gevrey Les Seuvrées

By billn on July 14, 2021 #degustation

2007 L&A Lignier Gevrey Les Seuvrées

2007 L&A Lignier, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées
This colour starting to add a little browner cast to the rim. The nose starts with a little white mushroom which fades to show that slightly sauvage Gevrey feeling, still with some faint barrel cream showing through – there’s a lot to find in here – eventually a balsamic/red-cherry fruit – lovely. Compared to more recent vintages there’s an off-ripe leading edge to the generous fruit and, here, is a more overt slug of creaminess from the oak. The finish is narrow but has fine length – minerally accented. The mid-palate oak is a little excessive for me but otherwise, this is a wine where I’m finding a lot to like.
Rebuy – Maybe

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