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Degustation

weekend wines – week 23 2018

weekend wines – week 23 2018

I see that Chézeaux have reverted to the slightly different 1990s labels with the faint image of the family house in the Clos de Chézeaux in Gevrey-Chambertin… 2015 des Chézeaux / Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin Hmm, for a 2015 there’s a lot of freshness here – a silky, round fruit is more reticent but present. In the […]

a few weekend wines – week 22 2018

a few weekend wines – week 22 2018

2014 Françoise André, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses There’s a little curl of vanilla to what is otherwise a nice line of aromatic freshness with faint lime citrus. A sheen of fresh minerality over the palate – again accented with vanilla – but it’s a much fainter accent than the nose. Lovely incisive minerality. Fresh and […]

my #ChardonnayDay – 1993 voillot, meursault les cras

my #ChardonnayDay – 1993 voillot, meursault les cras

1993 Joseph Voillot, Meursault 1er Les Cras A too often forgotten premier of Meursault – it can only be because of the small quantity of bottles – the wine today is brilliant, it’s lost all the strictness and rigour that it had back in 2010. The colour is deeply golden, but not quite orange! The […]

a little mid-week griotte – another successful 1997

a little mid-week griotte – another successful 1997

The 1997s have been a revelation in the last year; they were quite good when young but then entered a long phase of spicy, leathery aromatics with neither focus nor distinction – for a long time 1997 was aromatically one of my least favourite vintages. Today it’s quite different for the better wines because their […]

weekend wines – week 20, 2018

weekend wines – week 20, 2018

A long weekend – in much of Europe the Pfingst/Pentecost weekend means an extra day. My choice of wines saw a poor start but getting better: 1997 Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Malconsorts Oof – not a great nose – balsamic and with brett. If you can get the wine past your nose and into your […]

2015 reds from jules desjourneys

2015 reds from jules desjourneys

Samples shipped to me by Fabien Dupperay’s PR company – there’s €10 there, just in corks… I tasted some of these just one year ago with Fabien (here for subscribers), but they were still in tank as he bottles late – he was planning for August 2017. Here I get to try the finished product. […]

the decadence of fourrier’s 2003 clos st.jacques

the decadence of fourrier’s 2003 clos st.jacques

I bought the wines of this estate from about 1998-2005 – usually a mix of village Gevrey and Chambolle VVs plus the ubiquitous Clos St.Jacques and the Griotte – I think there may have been a couple of Morey Clos Solon purchases afterwards, but even that got to a price that I wasn’t prepared to […]

weekend wines – week 19 2018

weekend wines – week 19 2018

The Spiess was a cheap and super-cheerful wine with sweetness but balanced, gushing acidity – one to be careful of in the sunshine as the bottle will empty very quickly! 1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis Bottle one – such a brutal level of TCA – I didn’t like how the cork smelled when pulled, and […]

a replacement for the shocker…

a replacement for the shocker…

2005 JC Boisset, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Hautes-Jarrons ​As ‘understudy’ to the poor Ecard Savigny I looked to see if I had the same vineyard/vintage from another source – almost – it was a super-sub more like! A deep colour and still quite young-looking too. The nose is fresh, wide and direct, dark fruit and faint spice. […]

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