bertagna 2005 clos saint denis

bertagna 2005 clos saint denis

I’ve always had a ‘special’ love for Clos St.Denis, and a bottle such as this does nothing to assuage my predilection! It’s still surprisingly ‘wide open’ and ‘giving’, it’s really a beauty.
2005 Bertagna, Clos St.Denis try to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Whilst not the deepest, the nose offers many layers of fruit; red, bluer and blacker and then with a swirl you release violets – it’s a real beauty – give it time and it does deepen, showing a musky edge to the fruit and a faint caramel note. In the mouth it’s not over-ripe, and the first attack comes from the acidity, dragging with it a lovely intensity that peaks on the mid-palate before slowly decaying in a very long finish. The tannin is all-but hidden in the all-enveloping, nicely textured, extract from the fruit – it’s currently more about texture and density than layers or complexity. There is a hint of oak flavour in the finish but it is a minor component next to the lingering creamy fruit. It may only be the 7th of January, but, drunk over two evenings, this is, by a very wide margin, the finest wine I’ve opened this year!
Rebuy – Yes

3 responses to “bertagna 2005 clos saint denis”

  1. Richard Brooks

    What a beautiful note. I love CSD as well, and in fact find it generally more interesting than CDLR, which I know many think is the superior vineyard.

    I’ve not had any Bertagna wines. How would you describe their wine making approach? Is this a negociant or domaine bottling?

  2. Mark in Pernand

    With you Richard, & thanks Bill for the note.

    We are not alone either as, whilst I was laughing with Sebastian Thomas of Howard Ripley Ltd last evening about my Arlaud vendange piece (see Bill’s Harvest 2008 tab for my ramblings), which Sebastian has kindly read, he told me he also loved the aspect, terroir etc of Clos St Denis – which I most certainly did whilst picking there. Gorgeous escapism that morning – very special. Guess which wine I’ll be looking to spend pennies on from the 08’s.

    Romain Arlaud also freely admitted to me it is very, very special to him also.

    P.S Bill, I adored the 07’s tasted last night – lovely juicy, fruity, mineral, acid whites (my style) and some fabulous real surprises amongst the reds – Faiveley’s Clos de Beze was………. Louis Michel’s Chablis’ – yum, yum – Wow !!

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