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seven 97 volnays – not all are magnificent

lafon volnay santenots
This was not a bad group of wines, but was frankly dominated by the quality of the Lafon which I would unhesitatingly recommend. It was from a magnum, but then so were many others, so no advantage there.
1997 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Carellestry to find this wine...
It’s a soft and red nose – despite the softness it seems tight, or at any rate a little muted. The palate is medium-bodied and shows a very nice mid-palate intensity. The tannin is grainy but not too astringent leaving us with a good finale. It’s a nice wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 de Montille, Volnay 1er Mitanstry to find this wine...
Its a deep, young colour in the glass. Aromatically not much to say – very tight. The palate is far more expressive; lovely texture, fine tannins and understatedly long. The acidity is relaively low but there is also a good balance – I’d rather have this than ill-judged acidification. Good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay 1er Cailleretstry to find this wine...
An interesting nose, but there’s a cheesy element that’s spoiling the show. The palate is, however, sweet and sophisticated but I find an unusual flavour to the fruit – no suitable descriptor – just odd. The finish lingers well. A curate’s egg.
Rebuy – No
1997 Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenotstry to find this wine...
(Magnum) The nose is mainly about understated black cherry – but few ’97’s have such quality of fruit. The first impression on the palate is the tannin – there’s plenty – but not too astringent and forecasting a long life. The ample concentration lingers on a fine finish. More than enough balance here, this is one of the most successful 97’s and firmly recommended.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 François Mikulski, Volnay 1er Santenotstry to find this wine...
(Magnum) A nice black fruit nose. The palate is sweetly fruited and has ample grainy tannin. A wine that delivers concentration and good balance. I don’t really know Mikulski’s wines but this is a strong advert.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducstry to find this wine...
(Magnum) A soft, sweet and much redder fruited nose than the last bottles. The palate is medium intensity, coming across as quite sophisticated and with an additional creamy depth to the red fruited finish.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Lafarge, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênestry to find this wine...
Roasted red fruits on the nose. The palate is much fresher and tannic; mouth-gripping and dry. The nicest part is the lovely red-fruited length. For sure this is a very young wine but overall hard to like – perhaps it will have it’s day, but I will already have drunk the Lafon by then!
Rebuy – No

One response to “seven 97 volnays – not all are magnificent”

  1. Peter Brown

    I agree wholeheartedly with your comments on the 97 Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu. I opened my first bottle of the 98 vintage of this wine last week, simply because 98s are always referred to as best left untouched, rather like the black sheep of the family, and curiosity got the better of me. It had a fine rich red colour, good black fruit/cherry on the nose, a lovely depth of fruit, great complexity and grip, and long finish but the tannins were still a bit hard. I didn’t finish the bottle and left it overnight, with a cork in, slightly chilled and next day the tannins had completely softened. On this evidence I would say this wine will soon be making an outstanding bottle.

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