It would be hard to guess that this came from the same vineyard as the recent Faiveley Santenots. The Faiveley was more butch, and perhaps longer – an ‘hommage’ to the style of Lafon – but the width and complexity of fruit here seems more ‘Volnay’ though the oak needs to fade a little more. Today I’d drink the Faiveley, tomorrow the Rossignol, though at the weekend I’m not sure – choice is no bad thing!
2005 Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay 1er Santenots
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour with some purple still at the rim. The nose was overwhelmed by dark, slightly toasty oak for the first couple of minutes, wait and there’s a lovely width of beautiful fruit but it unfortunately still holds onto a slightly reductive-style oak base. Good intensity, and again the fruit is lovely, complex and occasionally shows a little creamy edge. Very well balanced but again with plenty of background reduction/oak – that said, it’s almost gone after about 90 minutes. This is lovely and if the oak fades further, it will be even better than that! For drinking now, open 2 hours before, or decant 20 minutes then pour.
Rebuy – Yes

2003 Lignier-Michelot, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose is forward, maybe a hint porty and certainly very ripe but generally the fruit talks of pinot. Ripe, plenty of concentration and very well mannered tannin. The understated acidity provides good balance and just enough freshness. It’s riper than I prefer, but if the nose talks of pinot then fruit on the palate clearly says burgundy. A good effort.
Rebuy – Maybe

I don’t often buy wines from Maison Latour, and whilst I’ve had so-so bottles from them, it has more been due to lack of local availability than quality reasons. Now I’ve found a relatively close merchant, so two or three bottles might appear over the next days.
2005 Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour. The first sniff seems architypal Gevrey; dark fruit against an earthy, almost grainy nose. With open time it becomes higher toned with more red fruit, seems much softer if a little less interesting. Decent concentration and certainly it’s more red-fruited in the mouth. Good acidity and late appearing tannin with a little grain. Not the glossy fruit and concentration of many 2005 Gevreys, but at a decent price this is worth buying.
Rebuy – Maybe

2004 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gammaires
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is understated but shows good depth and there’s no ‘2004 character’. In the mouth it’s serious, with good mid-palate dimension and a good persistence of ripe flavour. Very nice – I bought some more.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 F et D Clair, Santenay
Medium cherry-red colour. A very nice width of high-toned fruit on the nose, slowly it takes on a clear red berry complexion. Good depth and a furry texture on the palate. The acidity is nicely balanced and the medium-weight flavours last very well. A six-pack offered for 93 Swiss francs is a bit of a bargain for a wine with such personality.
Rebuy – Yes