olivier 2008 santenay 1er beaurepaire

By billn on August 31, 2010 #degustation

olivier-santenay-beaurepaire-2008

Well the last one was really good – so what’s to lose in trying again? Another bit of humour on the top of the cork – I’m definitely warming to this producer. I think I need to try their bourgognes – that’s usually the acid-test!

2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay 1er Beaurepaire
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts almost too forward but slowly settles into a fine and deep expression of red and black fruits and something that almost touches on aniseed. Concentrated and certainly intense this has more padding than the villages Santenay so never hints at anything mouth-puckering. The texture is very good indeed. This premier cru essentially delivering more weight without any penalty in terms of fineness or focus. Really very accomplished.
Rebuy – Yes

antoine et rachel olivier 2008 santenay ‘les temps de c(e)rises’

By billn on August 31, 2010 #degustation

lambrays-2000

A slight name-change since I last tasted a bottle from this domaine, but the quality is just as good. Maybe I should pay a visit. Anyway I like the sense of humour for the cuvée name!

2008 A&R Olivier, Santenay ‘Les Temps de C(e)rises’
Medium-plus, bright cherry red colour. The soft red fruit has width and impressive depth, a faint musty/stalky element to but it’s more complexity than a negative – it is anyway gone after 30 minutes of air. Full, bright, perhaps a hint petillant to start – I’ll let it settle for a while. Settle down it does; there is depth, impressive intensity and a clarity to the fruit that you don’t always find with Santenay. The acidity is just about covered, helped by quite some velvet texture, but still gives a lip-smacking effect – better than mouth puckering I suppose. I like this a lot for it’s ebullient ‘crunchy’ fruit, but when it loses some flesh it will be more challenging. Factor in a price of just over €10 and it is an absolute winner – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 clos des lambrays

By billn on August 30, 2010 #degustation

lambrays-2000

A tasting recollection – drunk over dinner with friends on Saturday.

2000 Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays
Medium, medium-pale colour. A little warmth of alcohol in the nostrils but chocolate, good stems and clean undergrowth too – it was very pretty. In the mouth there is sweetness, good balancing acidity and a tannin that just occasionally shows itself in the quite long finish. Dry stuff that description – often the problem with recollections – it doesn’t tell you that everyone around the table was oohing and ahing and saying the same word – ‘lovely’. Showing very well now but with the balance to last and last…
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Henri Boillot 2009s

By billn on August 24, 2010 #other sites#the market

In brackets are the 2008 price and even the 2007 price from the same offer where available.

DOMAINE HENRI BOILLOT – millésime 2009 (Subscription)
VILLAGES BLANCS 2009
BOURGOGNE Chardonnay 75cl 22.00 (22.00) Swiss Francs
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 75cl 39.50 (40.00)
MEURSAULT 75cl 42.00 (42.00 2008) (54.00 2007)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 75cl 44.00 (45.00 2008) (56.00 2007)

PREMIERS CRUS BLANCS 2009
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Les Embrazées 75cl 59.50 (59.00)
MEURSAULT Les Charmes 75cl 69.50 (68.00 2008) (85.00 2007)
MEURSAULT Les Perrières 75cl 85.00 (78.00 2008) (95.00 2007)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Clos de La Mouchère 75cl 72.00 (72.00 2008) (89.50 2009)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Caillerets 75cl 79.00 (78.00 2008) (89.50 2009)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET Les Pucelles 75cl 79.00 (78.00 2008) (99.00 2007)

GRANDS CRUS BLANCS 2009
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 109.00 (109.50 2008) (149.00 2007)
CRIOTS BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 178.00 (175.00 2008) (215.00 2007)
BIENVENUES BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 199.00 (209.50 2008) (249.00 2007)
BATARD MONTRACHET 75cl 259.00 (269.50 2008) (295.00 2007)
MONTRACHET 75cl 429.00 (449.00 2008) (499.00 2007)

PREMIERS CRUS ROUGES 2009
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE Les Lavières 75cl 39.50 (42.00)
BEAUNE Clos du Roi 75cl 48.00 (49.00 2008) (59.50 2007)
VOLNAY Les Fremiets 75cl 59.00 (60.00 2008) (75.00 2007)
VOLNAY Les Caillerets 75cl 69.00 (69.80 2008) (79.00 2007)

GRANDS CRUS ROUGES 2009
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 109.00 (99.80)
CHAMBERTIN 75cl 159.00 (159.00)
BONNES MARES 75cl 168.00 (165.00)

Mixed messages. Whites – certainly at the top-end – are down on 2008 prices. At the high-end it is the reverse case for the reds. This is probably in-line with the respective qualities of vintages i.e. an average red being better in 09 whereas and average white being better in 2008….

Lastly, I will leave you with a story about concrete eggs 😉

nada…

By billn on August 23, 2010 #other sites

alex-gambal-bourgogne-chardonnays

It’s all tumble-weed around here at the moment – the shock and surprise at finally finishing typing the Summer report meant that my body decided it was a good time to catch a cold! Probably just as well, as aided by neighbours and friends I only seem to have left one bottle each of the Gambal 06 | 07 | 08 bourgognes – now how did that happen? – I’m not planning to go back until harvest too. Quel cauchemar!!

Clearly no drinking around here for a a few days, so first, maybe a little Beaujolais 2009, then maybe you can learn something about Burgundy from Jamie Goode and his barking dog!

2007 chambolle les bussières – l&a lignier

By billn on August 18, 2010 #degustation

la-lignier-chambolle-bussieres

I typed the last few sentences of the summer report while sipping on this. There’s no slacking here!

2007 L&A Lignier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose doesn’t have much width, but from top to bottom there’s plenty of depth with high floral tones and deeper dark red/black cherry in the basement, slowly a creamy width starts to fill out the nose. Silky texture, the flesh of the fruit is successfully hiding much of the acidity, then comes a really nice cream-edged fruit – this is very good. I’d drink it sooner or very much later, in-between I suspect the acidity might dominate for a few years. Enjoyed a lot today…
Rebuy – Yes

fourrier 2004 chambolle-musigny

By billn on August 16, 2010 #degustation

fourrier-2004-chambolle

2004 Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbal hints of mint and a faint cedar, but it’s hard to say if it’s part of the the 04 character, whatever, it’s on a very low level, overall a liitle floral and not too dense, eventually it delivers a nice acid cherry aroma. Fresh, with just a little astringency to the tannin. There is just enough sweetness to carry what would otherwise be mouth-puckering acidity. Not quite as clunky as the Clos St.Jacques currently shows and the good fruit flavour comes through well in the finish. Almost good.
Rebuy – Maybe

1976 tortochot gevrey-chambertin clos des corvées

By billn on August 14, 2010 #degustation

tortochot-clos-des-corvees-90

I’m a little slow mentioning this – it’s about 2 weeks ago that I opened it in Beaune with friends. The 1990 and 1985 had so thoroughly impressed this year that I though I wouldn’t be too unhappy if this was a failure….

1976 Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Corvées
It was twilight and we were outside, but the colour seemed medium – maybe a little more. On the nose, just like the 1990 and 1985 this was very nice indeed; just a little more baked fruit but fresh, clean and very moreish. In the mouth I initially thought the acidity was too spiky, but 15 minutes later it and I were more in harmony – still the acidity was slightly in advance but nothing to complain about, particularly given that it is a village wine approaching it’s 35th birthday. There was sweetness and no undue tannin. Almost certainly passed its best (unlike the 1985) but it certainly isn’t falling off a cliff either.
Rebuy – Maybe

I also opened a second bottle of the 1986 Confuron-Cotetidot Clos de Vougeot – but sadly it was corked…

Burgundy Report

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