2005 Lejeune, Pommard 1er Les Argillières![]()
Tested from a half bottle. Medium-plus colour. The nose is wide with dark fruit, and a little spice with a chocolate edge, unfortunately a resting glass shows just an edge of cork taint. You don’t really taste it on the palate which is wide and concentrated, with plenty of reasonably grained, ripe tannin and again a hint of chocolate. Swirl the glass and you can just about ignore the taint. The length seems a little compromised, but this wine was good enough despite that contamination for me to still finish the half bottle – I can’t think of a much better recommendation!
Rebuy – Yes
Degustation
jayer-gilles 05 bourgogne ‘hcdn’

Continuing my tour through a few recently delivered 2005 bourgognes:
2005 Jayer-Gilles, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits![]()
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose that has plenty of oak – dark, slightly toasty and sweet with fainter higher tones. Equally flavour-packed as the previous day’s Lejeune but less fat despite the oak quotient. Good acidity that leaks sweet flavour across the tongue. Plenty of oak but it certainly diddn’t turn me off. This is a very tasty, darkly fruited drink right now.
Rebuy – Yes
But note that the price of this varies widely from good to bad value – for Hautes Côtes anyway.
pint-size 2005 lejeune bourgogne
This is from a cute and sexy looking 50cl bottle – it’s a shame this size is so hard to find as it’s just right for an evening – even when sharing.
2005 Domaine Lejeune, Bourgogne![]()
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little backward yet at its base there’s sweet red fruit – almost jammy – and some musky-floral notes, the last drops are fine and red though. The palate has good concentration and smooth acidity that leaks darker, ripe fruit flavours into the finish and there’s some well-submerged tannin. In any other vintage this would be a super bourgogne, in 2005 it’s only ‘above average’. I find it’s just missing a little zing and zest, but I’ve had other Lejeune Bourgognes that turn out very well so I would say that despite it being not totally engaging today, this could get into quite a nice place in another 3-5 years. I think the odds are easily in my favour if I put a few in the cellar, if only for their handy size.
Rebuy – Yes
At only 11 SFr each I bought another 12!
Interesting pieces in the press:
the return of the green meanie…
If I’m relatively happy with the reduction of the green component in the 2004 Georges Mugneret then this wine begs a question or two. If it has improved to the same level (I don’t have a 1 year ago reference point) then it must have been quite a challenge. It is rather green today and will have to have quite a turnaround to achieve a rebuy rating.
2004 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny![]()
Medium colour. The nose is dominated by that cedar-green note, it does slowly recede over 2 hours, revealing more of the ripe red strawberry fruit below. In the mouth it’s ripe and sweet, full of red fruits, a nice texture and a good burst of concentration on the mid-palate – but it’s also here that you can taste the green element. It’s soft, sweet and nicely concentrated, but with this level of green I can’t recommend it…
Rebuy – No
cornu 2005 savigny saucours
Another recent wine that confounded my expectations. My recent Cornus (2003’s) were deep and darkly oaked, couple that to the persona of many 2005 Savignys and I epected a big wine:
2005 Domaine Cornu, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Saucours![]()
Medium, medium-pale cherry-red, hints of purple. The nose has a wide red-fruited conserve impression. Entry in the mouth is narrow, swiftly widening into the mid-palate where the acidity comes through late coupled to a extra creamy vanilla dimension. This a beautifully detailed, light-bodied with all-but absent tannin, and it’s a very fine villages wine. It’s delicious right now but with the balance to gracefully age.
Rebuy – Yes
ponsot 2005 bourgogne cuvée du pinson

2005 Ponsot, Bourgogne Cuvée du Pinson![]()
Deeply coloured with a twist of purple. Wide, with a high toned and slightly estery nose. The palate is well concentrated and certainly well textured. High-toned, ripe fruit in the mouth with good acidity and good length. There is plenty of wine here, but today I find the high-toned flavour and aroma profile just a little odd (I remember a Dominique Laurent like this), in fact I didn’t want a second glass. Day two was much better – less high-toned and ‘chemical’. I very much enjoyed the last two glasses. A couple of bottles can sleep in the cellar…
Rebuy – Maybe
Drank directly following the Ardhuy 1er Cru Pommard (below), the Pommard doesn’t show a great deal more concentration but is a significantly more interesting wine for not dissimilar outlay.
d’ardhuy’s pommard 1er fremiers – 2005
2005 d’Ardhuy, Pommard 1er Fremiers![]()
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is pregnant with dark oak and soft spice, quite sweet but avoiding toast and only hinting at vanilla – all this covering black cherry and berry notes. The palate is concentrated without fat, intense in the mid-palate, and with acidity that pushes the finish quite some way. The fruit has dark oaky elements for the first minutes, but the tannins are completely buried. I’d leave this a couple of years to lessen the oak-derived aromas, but it is a medium-weight, complex and rather cultured Pommard.
Rebuy – Yes
louis carillon’s pitangerets 2004

Guess why I bought this – correct – because I’d never heard of the 1er cru and thought ‘let’s have a look’. Even after I found out it was red, I still thought ‘why not?’ 😉
2004 Louis Carillon et Fils, St.Aubin 1er Les Pitangerets![]()
Medium ruby red, already a little development at the rim. The nose starts a little like roast red tarts with an overlay of herbal, slightly cedarish notes. In the mouth there’s nice enough texture but the tannins coupled with the acidity will certainly make your mouth pucker – it’s an interesting contrast to the ripe fruit. A nice middle-weight wine with food, but more challenging without. I’m not unhappy to have drunk my first Pitangerets, though I’m not straining at the leash for the next, at least not from 2004…
Rebuy – No
hallo wien
No, not a reference to Freddy Kruger! Our weekend was spent in splendid spring sunshine (in February!) in Vienna.

Friday evening was kicked off in style; 1996 Dom Ruinart followed by 3 2005 Puligny ‘Folatières’ before the main event of 20 2005 grand crus from Gevrey-Chambertin – a mouth-watering selection of Chambertin, Bèze and other grand crus. Actually 25 bottles were consumed by the modest group, together with accomplished cooking and excellent service – I must admit one down-side; I felt rather ‘slow’ on Saturday morning…
I’ll make a full report in the Spring burgundy report, but opened at 4pm then decanted just before serving (they were all blind) between 8pm and 12pm – all were open, and all but one showed well. Second-guessing the producer caused more than a few surprises!
Saturday was filled to bursting with the Spanish Riding School, lunch in the giant glasshouses of the Burggarten, a tour of the opera house, Viennese coffee and cakes in the ‘Café Mozart’ and then the Karlskirche. I needed a short sleep (no surprise) before Wiener-Schnitzel in a back-street restaurant followed by a glass of wine in the deep cellars of a Weinkeller.
Sunday took in the Riesenrad (ferris wheel), a walk through the gardens and lunch at Palace Schönbrunn and then finally St.Stephen’s church before a fast train to the airport. Vienna has a lot to offer for about a 3-4 day break, and is very competitively priced versus other European capitols – unless all you want is a Jimmy Choo bag…
