For 2005 there are some cosmetic updates from the domaine; now we have a more flared bottle shape and a it’s heavier too. The price has gone up quite a bit, which made me want not to like it, but…

2005 Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er La Dominode

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts as a sumptuous swirl of deep cherry and well-integrated oak, an hour from opening and it’s tighter with edges of tobacco and cocoa. Like the nose, this starts hyper-concentrated yet plush, but like the nose it’s a transitory period before it tightens to show its inner self; intensity, excellent acidity and furry tannin before a good finish. Sumptuous and hedonistic for 25 minutes, underneath there’s the power and structure for 25 years of development. Given the tightening I would suggest drinking only over the next 6 months before sleeping for at least 10-plus – but buy all you can find, and that’s despite a 30% price increase over the last 4 vintages.
Rebuy – Yes

A nice piece from Eric to start us off.

This is the last note from my small sojourn into the world of 1997’s – I’m sure that’s probably enough for this year – so tonight I begin dipping into the younger 2004 and (mainly) 2005’s that are newly populating the cellar. But back to the Damoy – this was actually a bit of a surprise; unheralded producer, relative underperformance of the cru, weak vintage – yet overachieving versus expectations. Almost enough to become a ‘buy’.

1997 Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin
Wide and interesting, just a little diffuse but there’s plenty of complexity and a little earth. Relatively fresh, starting wide and narrows/concentrates into the finish – and it’s a good creamy finish. The overall stance of this wine is one of understatement – but it’s very nice and if seen at a good price…
Rebuy – Maybe

1997 Lambreys, Clos du Lambreys
A forward nose, leafy, tobacco. The palate is subdued, relatively balanced but shows a nice little burst of interest in the mid-palate before fading. It’s quite nice, but not more.
Rebuy – Maybe

1997 Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots
A wide, slightly diffuse, earthy, mineral nose with fruit shaded to the red. Some reasonably fresh notes that overlay a dense, tight core – almost separated from the rest of the wine – comes together more in the glass. Some grainy tannin and a reasonably long finish. This is almost good – not as dense but fresher and more interesting than his Richebourg in this vintage.
Rebuy – Maybe

1997 Dominique Laurent, Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
Medium colour. The nose starts a little unusual, green boiled vegetables – asparagus – slowly takes on a more classic pale red nose at the core, actually it was better than it sounds! Quite fresh, though the acidity is a little spiky and penetrating but there’s a mineral edge too. Mouthwatering with a mineral length. Interesting but I wouldn’t buy any…
Rebuy – No

1999 Denis Pommier, Chablis 1er Côte de Lechet
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Worryingly deep colour. The nose, however, is restrained, waxy and showing only the merest suggestion of oxidation – in short it’s a nice, older and ready wine. The palate is balanced and mineral, without showing obviously mouthwatering acidity. The old-timer’s oxidation is there on the finish but it’s very, very mild. A nice wine that is more advanced than a 99 should be, but is not ‘dulled’, or ‘tired’ – it is tasty now and should be drunk quickly – we also drank (and enjoyed) the second bottle quickly!
Rebuy – Maybe

1998 Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is soft, wide and red – perhaps with a hint of mint to go with many layers of fruit. In the mouth there is plenty of ripe, red-shaded fruit which shows an excellent length – I do, however, find the acidity sticking out just a little. There’s still some well-grained tannin that has plenty of balancing extract.
Only the less than perfect acidity means that I don’t unreservedly recommend this. Still a more than interesting wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Roncières
From a half-bottle. Medium-plus ruby-red. A nose that remains relatively understated; faint red fruit overlain with equally faint, sweet caramel. Some fat, concentrated and with perfect acidty – this really dances across the palate. The tannins retain some grain but are on the wane. I rather fell-out with c.97-98 Grivots as unbalanced tannic monsters, but this is lovely – I’m happy to have a few in the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes

An interesting counterpoint to the Faiveley – one might expect the Chambertin to need more time than a Corton, but producer style counts for much. Also opened and then poured 1 hour later:
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chambertin
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts deep and wide – still primary – slowly providing a soft, savoury bacon-fat background. In the mouth this is intense, wide and mouth-filling. There is still plenty of tannin, faintly astringent and with a bitter chocolate edge that adds a little cream before going very long in the finish. There is a ton of structure here but it’s very well matched by the extract. Excellent, and wait a minute – hmm – I can still buy this cheaper than some ‘mid-range’ 2005 premiers…!
Rebuy – Yes