2005 des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a wild brambly black fruit – slowly goes deeper with faint caramel. Wide and intense – again with dark-hued fruit. Reasonably well-packaged tannin and very good length though the tannin resurfaces here. It’s still brusque and bruising in its intensity so will need a few years in the cellar – but I will buy a few for the ride.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Joseph Voillot, Pommard 1er Les Rugiens
Medium colour. Initially the nose is tight and thin, 10 minutes brings a savoury depth and faintly floral width. In the mouth it’s a narrow entry, the defining feature of this wine is it’s acidity – it’s slightly forward, but everything flows from it – soft texture and lovely expansion in the mid-palate before an impressively lingering finish. My kind-a wine.
Rebuy – Yes

I know that for years I must have been unlucky, but finally, a Barthod that impresses me! I wouldn’t propose that you drink it now, but…
2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Medium-plus colour. A heavily perfumed nose, high floral tones and low tones of good fruity depth – takes quite some time to take on a modicum of elegance. In the mouth it’s about balanced intensity – almost like the Bonnes-Mares which it borders. Deep red fruit, covered tannins and good acidity bubbling below the surface. It took a little time for me to warm to it but I really savoured those last drops. Leave it at least 5 years in the cellar as it’s close to grand cru quality.
Rebuy – Yes

PLUS: Showcasing Beaujolais

1993 Méo-Camuzet, Corton Clos Rognets
I last opened one of these Méo’s about 3 years ago and it was a big wine, I expected nothing less tonight, but this was not bright in the glass. The nose started very earthy, then went through a mushroom phase before an understated red fruit impression. In the mouth the acidity is to the fore, though not too much so. The flavours are middle-weight and interesting but far below expectation. Shame.
Rebuy – No (But other bottles have been much better – in fact I’d pay $25 for an 93 Aloxe-Corton that tasted like this – but not more)

Dinner with a friend who can really cook, so some digging in the cellar was required. If I’m honest I was a little disappointed to be opening one of these, but following the relative disappointment of my 2001 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagnes, I decided I would rather enjoy my last Roulot young than be disappointed in later years (or even now!) with p.ox. It wasn’t quite a 10 out of 10 performance, but it wasn’t too far away:
2000 Roulot, Meursault 1er Perrières
Relatively young in colour, a nose that soared with brioche and eventually creme brulee. Not the tight minerality of 3 or 4 years ago, indeed a little too relaxed in the middle but the finish was super and mirrored the nose. No real regret for opening now as it was still super.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin Les Clos
Medium-plus colour. The nose is both wide and deep with higher-toned powdery elements and occasional flashes of deep cherry. Intense and mouth-watering with a decent finish – in-between is fruit with good depth and submerged tannin. For a humble ‘villages’ wine this impresses and is reasonably sophisticated.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 La Truffière, Romanée Saint-Vivant
Medium-plus colour. Width though limited depth on the nose, but the depth on show has a soft and smooth feel. In the mouth it’s clearly got an executive texture, plenty of well-textured tannin bubbling below the soft, concentrated fruit and an understated acidity that gives no hint to the vintage – neither does the fruit profile. If anything it’s just slightly fresher than the DRC of the same vintage, though without that complexity. I creamy hint lingers very long on the finish. For the vineyard it’s a decent effort and for the vintage it’s a very good result. At the price paid (about €80 three or four years ago) it’s a hit!
Rebuy – Yes

A strong recommendation for buying decent regoinal wines and saving them for ten years – indeed saving your credit-card bill too!
1998 Michel Champion, Bourgogne Côte du Chalonaise
A medium-pale, bright ruby-red. High tones and depth, apple skin, a sweeter base and a red fruit note. Nicely plump, no hard edges despite slightly elevated acidity and the remnants of tannins that were probably quite astringent when younger. This is good with food but edgy without as it has an element of unripeness that was quite engaging. Probably showing at it’s best since release and will likely peak in another year or two.
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Guy Castagnier, Clos de la Roche
Medium, medium-plus colour. Aromatically fresh with good depth and an almost shiny, glossy effect from the dark fruit nose. Super acidity that really extends itself into the finish and pushes the finish longer. Still rather linear, the tannin is more of an after-thought, they still need a few more years once you’ve located them though. Mineral and muscled, a step-up from the (2) Petits Monts and a long way from entering a mature phase. Very good.
Rebuy – Yes