I was potentially setting up a bit of a whinge – the 1986 Mosel was opened first and the colour of the wine was medium lemon-yellow. As the worm of the corkscrew slid into the cork of the Chablis, the last of a tasty half-case, I was already mentally writing this note: ‘7 year-old oxidised Chablis versus baby-faced 22 year-old riesling’. Fortunately like every other bottle from this case – good quality at a decent price.

2001 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Les Vaillons
Medium golden colour. The nose has some high tones of green-skinned fruit that balances a honied base enough to retain a fresh impression. Width and a little sweet fat – the acidity is fresh though from time to time nearly spiky. The flavours are mineral, a little baked bread and a final salty tang. The finish is quite long and totally savoury.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Françoise et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers Dents du Chien
A young, relatively pale lemon-yellow. Slow to open, but eventually quite round aromas that are perhaps a little alcoholic at the top-end, with ripe fruit and a hint of almond. The impression in the mouth is of a wine that’s become rather four-square, dense, and not all that giving. It’s clearly fresh enough and has a good core of concentration. The length is still decent in a savoury way. I don’t normally hold with whites closing down, but this is certainly quite dumbed-down versus its release.
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 François Gay, Ladoix
A deep but young colour. The nose starts with plenty of dark oak that’s matched to equally dark cherry aromas – the more the glass drains, the aromas become redder and redder, and also prettier. Good volume in the mouth and an open red-black confiture flavour that’s also edged with subtle dark oak, still a hint of tannin and super acidity. Long and flavourful with subtle licorice root flavour. Still young and still a wine that remains one of my best buys from the vintage – lots of time ahead, but was clearly at its best about 1 hour after opening.
Rebuy – Yes

Last tasted three years ago – the tannin is now on a lower order, but it seems pretty consistent.

2001 Frédéric Esmonin, Mazy-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts like coal with a thin red-fruit coating – in the glass the fruit becomes ever stronger and the coal, fainter – really, really pretty. There’s not the punch and concentration of the ’99, but the flavour and density are really super. Good balance and a velvet texture, the acidity sucks you into a good, mouth-watering finish. Intense, slightly earthy, red-fruited velvet – super.
Rebuy – Yes

This wine seems very consistent with the 1999 vintage. Some intensity and complexity – but versus the ‘Mazy’ and ‘Griottes’ a lighter wine.

2001 Frédéric Esmonin, Ruchottes-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus relatively young colour. The nose starts wide but diffuse, slowly focusing to give a really impressive red cherry note. To start with the major impression in the mouth was the tart fruit/acid balance, this was moderated by food and seemed okay later – perhaps that was just me – the acidity remains ‘intense’ though is buffered by quality red fruit. Very little tannin and a finish that lingers as long as the mouth-watering acidity supports it – which is quite a while. Intense without obvious density, primary in both aroma and flavour – but engaging enough. Very young, it’s rather good, though it’s not ‘great’. Reminds me of many a ’96 though with more primary fruit of-course.
Rebuy – Maybe

I was actually ‘torn’ whether to make this a rebuy ‘yes’ or ‘maybe’. That was because it’s not a top-performing Ruchottes, in fact it’s borderline 1er cru / grand cru in quality. But the release price is that of 1er cru, so there remains value.

Far from ugly…
1998 Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne
The first pour – ooh quite light colour – but the more you pour, it rather disconcertingly seems to darken at an alarming rate. The end colour is similar to the 98 Boillot. The nose starts with an unusual ‘warm wool’ aroma, perhaps a little oaky too – but not a hint of oxidation. The wool fades to leave width wafts of ripe fruit – and not that much maturity – but the last drops almost have that volatile edge of a redcurranty red-wine. In the mouth, it has intensity, but keep it on your tongue and it bursts with interest and complexity. Very good length. From just a little ‘so what?’ when opened (too cold), to a super mouthful as it warms – Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

This singleton has been kicking around the cellar for quite some time. Given the yes/no discussion about whether Fevre may or may not have some random oxidation problems, I thought I may as well open it up – it was a little too soon maybe; I wonder how many bottles are lost to such p.ox angst…
1998 Willam Fevre, Chablis Les Clos
Medium-plus yellow – not quite a golden colour. The nose has a little matchstick and oak, it’s quite dense, the fruit is ripe though not tropical. Decently soft, slightly waxy texture with an impression of flavour from the matchstick aromas. I would say that the only obvious mineral aspect is the finish, but it’s very long and creamy. Dense with good enough acidity. This is actually rather good – though bought for peanuts 8-or-so years ago – yet I have the impression it would have been even better in a few more years.
Rebuy – Yes