Tasted in Meursault with Nicolas Laine, 06 June 2017.
Domaine de Château du Meursault
Rue du Moulin Foulot
Tel: +33 3 80 26 22 75
When the opportunity arises…
A chance to have a look back at a decent selection of wines from the Château’s 2014 vintage, with their commercial manager, Nicolas.
The reds were showing very well indeed, but some of the whites were a little subdued for the greatness of the vintage – but I’ve seen that at other addresses too. Still, a very safe pair of hand these days…
Late picked from high in the valley, with stainless-steel fermentation.
Wide with a growing floral impression underpinned with faint red fruit, but fruit with a growing presence. Hmm, fresh, delicious, energetic, just a great first impression for 10am! Certainly fresh, certainly plenty of acidity but frankly delicious.
2014 Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
‘Every year the best grapes of the domaine, 2.6 ha on the upper part of the hill with white soil.’
A palpable extra depth of aroma, almost textured with a dark-cherry fruit. More width, more depth and concentration, the tannins have a little more grab but not grain, here with a little attractive finishing bitterness. Fine.
From 5 parcels that amount to an impressive 3.6 hectares – but delivering a mere 12hl/ha in 2014.
A little more salinity to this nose, a freshness and florality too but not the broad fruit of the last. Ooh, fresh, beautifully textured, a little more direct in shape but melting across the palate a wine that opens out. A more physical interaction, less overt fruit. Bravo!
0.6 ha from Rognets and Vergennes – above Ladoix an old quarry – it’s hot here, with not much soil. Planted in 1965.
A little lighter in colour. A hint of earthiness but generally a narrower and tighter nose – but at the same time clean and appealing. Plenty of volume, a little beautifully textured muscle, a little oak in the finishing flavours but this is very seductive for a Corton, long finishing. Fine again.
2014 Bourgogne Clos du Château
8 hectares from in front of the château, split into two for elevage; north and south. Vinified in barrel, exactly the same as the Meursault villages.
Hmm – quite a large-scaled nose here, freshness, a base of faint lemon yellow, above a little herb. Hmm (again) a lovely combination of freshness and weight, lemon flavour in the finish. Good length, very executive bourgogne!
2014 Meursault 1er Perrières
2 parcels that touch but 2-3 days difference in maturity; the old vines are the sooner. The two are always vinified separately, no batonnage.
A nose that starts tight – swirling, there is a pretty depth and an attractive purity but still a modest nose. Ohh – wide, bubbling complexity, a hint saline, beautiful… not an overt wine, but one that just keeps talking. Very much tighter than when first tasted, but still a beauty…
From the top of the vineyard near Perrières.
Also a pinched nose, but with a more overt complexity, some oak but modestly done. Hmm, wow! Energy, delicious flavour, intensity, salinity, length… today really, and easily, the most impressive of these. Bravo!