Moulin à Vent – 34 wines

28.7.2017billn

A nice tasting of Moulin à Vent producers’ wines in the grounds of the Château Moulin à Vent. It was a hot day so the producers were fighting to keep their wines at a decent temperature, but it was still a good opportunity to meet some new producers…

2015 Domaine Rochegrès, Moulin à Vent
(Albert Bichot) This Moulin à Vent contains not just Rochegrès, there are some younger vines in here too. A mix of fermentations, both here and in Pommard but blended and bottled in Beaune. Approaching 45 hl/ha – ‘so did well’
Plenty of volume and some modest tannin, at least versus the large-scale. Bright and impressive finishing for a basic wine – very tasty – but of course the vintage helps.

2014 Domaine de d’Eole, Moulin à Vent
Manual harvest, whole cluster.
Modestly spiced red fruit aroma. Silky, easy, an elegant texture, long with a little tasty bitter tannin and finishing sweetness. Easy, but very yum!

2015 Domaine de d’Eole, Moulin à Vent Aux Thorins
A little more aromatic depth. More depth of fruit on the palate too – more concentration, more weight of fruit flavour. A good wine, faintly spicy finishing.

2011 Domaine de d’Eole, Moulin à Vent Champs de Coeur
A tighter nose but with a little added floral impression. Nice line, more mineral, more floral, good energy. Lacks a little comfort today, but has plenty going for it – yummy all the same.

2015 Château Bonnet, Moulin à Vent
A nice floral note here. Also in the mouth – this is such a delicious, easy to approach version, of MAV – really tasty wine.
2014 Château Bonnet, Moulin à Vent Vin de Garde
A little fresher and more floral. Hmm, lovely in the mouth – the most delicious wine yet – bravo…
2015 Le Nid, Moulin à Vent Tradition
Deep, meaty aroma with a faint herb – growing flowers. Very silky, good richness, gorgeously textured with a fine complexity.

2014 Le Nid, Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
A nice floral top note, direct, slowly melting flavour, a grab of tannin, long mouth-watering – super wine, but it says wait, the tradition 15 is drinking much easier today – almost too easily…

2014 Le Nid, Moulin à Vent Rochegres
Fine, wide – really a super width, a slowly melting flavour. I find this the best – but not for drinking today – I still prefer the first for that, but the finish here is already delicious!

2012 Château des Jacques, Moulin à Vent Carquelin
There’s a faint oak aromatic here, but a fine floral side to the wine too. Nice richness of texture, growing width – a little more oak here again. Delicious, but I find too oaky.

2011 Château des Jacques, Moulin à Vent Rochegrès
Plenty of sous bois aroma here. In the mouth, fine textured a little floral, some oak in the finish but here there is lots of energy and a little minerality too. A very tasty finish

2006 Château des Jacques, Moulin à Vent La Rôche
Complex, floral, sous bois nose. More overtly delicious than the 2011. A hint of Marsala oxidation, but a nice width of complex almost balsamic flavours. Very interesting, and whilst tastier than the last, certainly not particularly delicious in the context of the tasting overall.

2015 Olivier Merlin, Moulin à Vent
Whole-cluster, not a long maceration, maybe 10 days,
Deep colour. Deep, complex, a well of attractive dark fruit aroma. Nice volume and great texture. Perfumed flavour and with a fine weight of extract. Simply excellent!

2014 Olivier Merlin, Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
After fermentation this stays in barrel for 18 months. 5-12 yo barrels.
Floral, a little pyrazine style aroma. Nice freshness, pyrazine style flavour too but a big width of flavour and complexity. Long, delicious finishing – which for me balances the start.

2013 Olivier Merlin, Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
A little herb but nice depth and a lot of aromatic complexity – a delicious nose! Nice freshness, nice richness and for a 13 this is really ‘together’ and simply delicious!

2015 Chateau des Gimarets, Moulin à Vent Tradition
All whole-cluster.
a nice aromatic volume of fruity dark freshness. Unlike the nose it’s only a modest volume in the mouth, but with a growing intensity. Long and quite good.

2013 Chateau des Gimarets, Moulin à Vent Esprit de ma Terre
The cuvée name hidden away on neck label. All destemmed.
Hmm, that’s beautifully perfumed – a little fruit and a lot of flowers. Much more volume, energy and interest – the structure is a little hard and says wait more – but this will be lovely. Super.

2012 Chateau des Gimarets, Moulin à Vent Futs de Chene
Higher toned, not so obviously oaked but there’s a hint of barrel. Lovely energy here and freshness, richness – super complexity, but a wine to wait for – it’s tasty though – and you know I didn’t want to like it, given the name…

2016 Richard Rottiers, Moulin à Vent Foudres
From bought grapes after his vineyards were devastated by hail.
Hmm, this tastes really good, delicious fruit good volume and density. Delicious wine – what a save for Richard!
2016 Richard Rottiers, Moulin à Vent
Domaine fruit – what there was of it…
Hmm, complex, a hint of herb and fruit. Less easy than the ‘foudres’ cuvée but a hint more interesting. Mmm, richer texture, delicious texture. Deep and very young, long to wait for but really super.
2015 Louis Boillot, Moulin à Vent Vieilles-Vignes
Fresh, faintly spiced ripe fruit nose. Big, delicious wine with, hmm, richness of fruit, good energy. Big, very tasty stuff!
2015 Louis Boillot, Moulin à Vent Rouachoux
A suggestion of oak, but mainly higher toned floral notes – a really attractive nose. More of everything after the VV, including tannin, but super impressive wine!

2015 Louis Boillot, Moulin à Vent Brucellions
A tighter nose with faint flowers. Hmm, more muscle less volume, more intensity too. Super floral flavour – simply lovely.

2015 Domaine du Granit, Moulin à Vent Tradition
Cool maceration, a little destemming. 10% old wood the rest ss and concrete. A 12 hectare domaine but mainly their vines are in MAV
A little herby width. Nice energy and volume.

2014 Domaine du Granit, Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
Fresher, much redder fruit. A little less sweetness but with a nice line and good intensity. This will be good, but wait!

2011 Domaine du Granit, Moulin à Vent Cuvée Lucile-Maud
High spicy tones, narrower below. Lush, wide, delicious in the mouth with a mix of sucrosity and energy. Tasty wine!

2014 Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin à Vent Rouachaux
Here the nose offers up a little oak but a pretty and saline complexity too. Fresh, lithe, nice growing intensity. Hmm this is a lovely wine with a super line. Yum!

2014 Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin à Vent Vieilles-Vignes
Also here’s a faint oaky impression – that could be a little reduction. The wine is brighter, with fine intensity. Width and complexity – a tannin that is very modest but a hint blocky and says wait another 12 months (+) – a lovely finish…

2014 Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin à Vent Les Perelles
A tighter nose, deep and dark fruit at the depth. Fresh, wide, a little mineral, muscular flavour that’s very young indeed. It will be utterly delicious but you should wait – or carafe a few hours if very impatient 🙂
2015 Château Moulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent Thorins
Plenty of aromatic depth but a tighter width. Lovely dimension of flavour, some tannin. Young but absolutely delicious…

2014 Château Moulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent
Also a little tight, here with a little oaky reduction too. Wide, layered, oaky finishing complexity. More oak in the finish than I would like, but you can’t deny how delicious the wine is showing, in this style.

2014 Château Moulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent Croix de Verillats
A hint of the floral here but still the same oaky-style reduction as the others – though on a little lower level. Hmm, this has a little more relaxed depth of flavour, less over oak and generally more togetherness. I like this a lot!

2014 Château Moulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent Champs de Coeur
Here is a modest, perhaps tight nose. Lots of energy here, a little minerality too – some herb in complexity. This needs the most time of all these wines to wait for, but all is in place I think.

2014 Château Moulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
The family saline, faintly oaky-style reduction. Behind, a certain sweetness. Hmm, mineral, direct, impressive stuff this – achingly young – you really have to wait, but this is a wine with great potential. I would check the next in 5 years! But bravo!

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