Tasted in Chablis with Samuel Billaud, 08 June 2017.

Domaine Samuel Billaud
8 Boulevard Tacussel
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 6 37 52 50 32
www.samuel-billaud.com

Samuel Billaud’s domaine was my best discovery in my January 2017 Chablis visits – really a super set of wines. I popped in again to see how those wines are developing.

Currently about 80% of the production is exported, with the UK being the most important market.

Samuel on 2016 in January:
“2016 was complicated due to two climatic incidents; a hard frost, particularly to the east of Chablis that caused considerable damage due to a temperature of about -5°C. The second incident was the hail that hit the north, north-west, then another hail, one month after the frost that basically destroyed a lot of the south, such as Préhy. Of course there was a lot of rain in the weeks that followed which meant it was almost impossible to keep up with the mildew – but then the canicule (heat wave). Really I could call it an ‘année noir’ – a black year. You have to look almost to the 1800s for something so damaging. Pruning is very difficult, because not all baguettes are fertile – so let’s seen. For me it was probably about a half a harvest. But the quality of the grapes is great, there’s a very nice balance waiting.”

The wines…

We took an early look at a couple of 2016s before the 2015s.

First up was 2016 Chablis Grand Terroirs which showed some CO₂, but with a personality of freshness, citrus and lots of interest. This looks to be heading in a great direction. Next was the 2016 Chablis 1er Vaillons of which my description was quite short – a citrus fizz bomb – oof! I was equally verbose when tasting the 2016 Chablis 1er Forêts – ooh, watch out for this one!

So, to the 2015s:

Versus January, I noted just a little less flamboyance of aroma and maybe a little more oak showing in the aromas – that’s the bottling for you – but such a great set of wines, nevertheless…

2015 Chablis Grand Terroirs
Three parcels, two on the left bank. 30-year-old vines opposite Vosgros on Kimmerigian. One below Montée de Tonnerre, all three separately vinified, and normally assembled one month before bottling.
A lovely deep but fresh lemon. Hmm. Layered, but fresh flavour and showing a slowly growing complexity. Saline finishing, hmm, not the most overt energy but very yum indeed…

2015 Chablis 1er Fourneaux
Also all tank elevage.
Pretty complex nose of a nice purity and energy – faintly floral with agrume fruit here. A hint more richness of texture, cementing the flavour to the tongue – just a great wine with a modest intensity but very long…

2015 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
3 heights of vines, all harvested by hand and vinified together as they are small parcels. 20% in barrels of 400 l. 18 months elevage, bottled last month…
Ooh, cool, direct in the mouth, growing intensity, more rigour in the finish, ooh this needs time but its a super wine – drink the easier Fourneaux while you wait for this really super wine…

2015 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
2 parcels: the top of Chapelots, other at the top of the triangle. 20% in barrel same as the last – bottled in November.
Clean, fine citrus on the nose. Super silky, layered, citrus, saline and super – long, special wine for today…

All the grand crus saw 400 litre barrels for 12 months and 6 months on their lees in tank. Bottling is planned for March:

2015 Chablis Bougros
A modest toast aroma – perhaps it is a reduction. Super mineral but with a twist of fat to the texture too – a wine of line, melting flavour, a subtle but super wide finish. Oof!