Tasted in Chablis with Laurent Pinson, 30th January 2015.
5, quai Voltaire
Tel: +33 3 86 42 10 26+33 3 86 42 10 26
The family Pinson have been in Chablis for 3-400 years; always in a mixed agriculture of vines and grain et-cetera. Louis Pinson, Laurent’s grandfather, decided in the 1940s to concentrate on wine. In 2008 daughter Charlène joined the domaine.
The estate now has 14ha of vines run by Christophe, Laurent and his daughter Charlène.
Laurent notes that “We like short pruning, debudding and deleafing to ensure good aeration – so a perfect year might still bring 50-55 hl/ha – but there are very few perfect years!” They work in a lutte/très raisonné way, and need about 8-10 days for harvesting as it is all done by hand.
Ferments are in stainless steel tanks and, for higher appellations, a small part in new oak barrels before putting the wines in older barrels (2 to 8 years old) for an ageing of 8 to 12 months.
Laurent on 2013:
“The 13s have a certain ripeness and density that ensures many will be drunk young, but there’s real Chablis below. We were 25-32 hl/ha so about 50% down on a ‘normal’ vintage.”
Mainly 1er Crus and GC at this domaine, but they start, of-course, with Chablis. I found this to be great range of wines..
6 parcels assembled, mainly in the valley between Montmains and Vaillons, plus just under Mont de Milieu – so about 50:50 right and left bank. 4 hectares here, sealed with DIAM. 100% tank elevage here.
A discreet nose, but also one of depth. Wide ingraining intensity, sweetness of fruit and a fine concentration in the finish. This is very tasty and it lasts very well. Super-drinkable.
2013 Chablis cuvée Mademoiselle
Old barrels used – a single tiny parcel on top the hill some way above the Montée de Tonnerre. A little extra skin contact before pressing. Depending on the vintage 24-36 hours.
The nose is a little more open, but very pretty Chablis, still. Just a little fuller in the entry, then it narrows slightly but offers fine, detail and a few oak notes. This is super…
2013 Chablis 1er Vosgiraut
A deeper nose that’s fresh, herby and quite complex – and totally different to the two villages. Wide, with super minerality, flashes of ripe fruit and lovely acidity – this is excellent. Very long and the flavour grows for a little while before fading. Super.
I’m liking the style very much so far!
Have both this and Montmains and decided to separate the two because their soils are very different.
A wide nose, faint oak underpins it but it is fresh and interesting. Round in the mouth, but with really gorgeous detail and complexity – lovely. A long line of faintly sweet, pure Chablis flavour in the finish. Gorgeous.
2013 Chablis 1er Montmains
About 150 metres from the Fôrets but same height up on the hill.
Ripe fruit and a little tinned peach. But in the mouth, in spite of a little extra richness, this is very mineral. Certainly more contemplative than the Fôrets, but with a little extra saline accent to the flavour – holds very well and is quite fresh in the finish.
Now move to right bank.
2013 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
In Vaupoulot just changing the orientation a little, similar to that of the middle of Montée de Tonnerre
A fresh, forward and rather more mineral nose than those before. Cool fruit, silky, very mineral flavour and texture impression, quite contemplative but of quite some concentration. A big kick of finishing flavour before slowly fading. A very contemplative wine but with lots on offer too….
Biggest parcel of the domaine, 4.5 hectares in two blocks, the big parcel works really well raisonné because there is no neighbourly influence…
A big, fresh and full nose – of detail, herbs and flowers. A wine with a modest richness and quite some width and density, like the Fourchaume – this is differentiated by an added sweetness of fruit and a more present energy from finer acidity. Still a wine of ripe fruit that’s modestly oak accented, but a really super wine too…. Long finishing – the first attack is the sweet fruit but the finishing tone is mineral. Wait for this, it will be super!
2013 Chablis Les Clos
In bottle only for ‘hours’ – from 4 different parcels, but the total is 2.5 hectares. Various vine ages from 8-45 years – “Maybe the average is 25” – 20% new oak with 12 months in barrel, mainly 2-5 year-old wood.
Deep, with an oaky, faintly vanilla base above which escapes white flower notes. Round, full, super-silky, very mineral with flashes of sweet fruit, and also hints of barrel. There is weight here and a very slowly growing, but ever-mounting intensity. The minerality is accented with a saline impression. The finish is very wide indeed and a little like the last wine, the facile sheath of fruit notes fades to reveal a final line of pure mineral. Another wine to wait for, that will be worth the wait.