Tasted in Chichée with Nathalie Oudin, 28th January 2015.
5, rue du Pont
Tel: +33 3 86 42 44 29
This domaine has 8 hectares in production out of a total of almost 10 – all in the commune of Chichée. Nathalie works with her sister Isabelle at this domaine created by their parents. The vines came from their grandparents who sold their produce directly to the négoce.
The family lived in Paris, but decided to move to the country to take in the vines. The first vintage was 2007. Nathalie, who studied in Dijon and worked in Bordeaux and Australia, laughs saying it’s only a small domaine and they only have a small tractor, but they focus 80% of their time in the vines. The domaine isn’t exactly Bio but 95% use that approach, though Nathalie notes that when a vintage is very difficult ‘like 12 or 13’ they will use some synthetic molecules – she says it is not worth the risk to them – but no herbicides and insecticides though. Taking care of the rendement is high on the agenda – “60 hl/ha is allowed but our target is more like 45-50. We work on principle that 95% of the wine’s quality is from the grapes.”
It’s a long elevage here – 1-2 years – only in stainless-steel tanks on the lees – mainly the fine lees. Even in a 2 year elevage they normally move the wine only 2 or 3 times, but need to, because with so long on the lees the wine can be a little reductive. They prefer to bottle themselves, so they can choose the exact date/best moment. And it’s also more exciting says Nathalie!
The domaine has no PC or GC and a little of their production is still sold to the négoce. About 50,000 bottles per year are produced, of which about 50% are exported. In France it’s mainly sold to cavistes and restaurants. They do also sell direct, but only by appointment as they are normally in the vines. But friends of friends and their friends keep buying!
A good to excellent range at this new address (to me…).
In bottle since September.
Pretty aromas, with a faint reduction at the core. A richness to the texture – only 30 hl/ha in total here. But there’s balance and a little sucrosity. Fine fresh flavour, indeed complex flavour in the mid-palate before slowly fading in the finish. Very good!
A cuvee which will spend another 6+ months or so in tank. ‘This plot always produces lovely small grapes so is vinified separately – 3-4 small parcels in this blend. ‘Chichee is famous for delivering a direct style of wine’ notes Nathalie.
Lots of width on the nose. Really super line and intensity – wow! Lovely long finish – what a wine!
2013 Chablis 1er Vaugiraut
A 1er that’s rarely seen, normally other producers bottle a Vosgros. 2 parcels here, one of 30 and the other of 60 years-old vines. More marne here in the soil.
Wide and floral. Lithe yet with a little richness to the texture – salty, and intense. Super wine and very individual nice energy.
2013 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
Just one parcel of old 65 year-old vines producing a small yield that equates to 3,000 bottles. This is an old massale selection planted by Nathalie’s grandfather.
A tighter nose but with a pretty complexity and slowly evolving floral notes – discreet but lovely. Lithe with good concentration, a little sucrosity and a pretty little peak of flavour before a wide, mouth-watering finish. Not a wine that shouts but one that rather comforts in its complexity. Very lovely, and just a little elegant…