Tasted in Préhy with Laurent Ternyck, 29th January 3015.
Domaine de Mauperthuis
3, Grande rue de Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 42 70
All the previous wines from this domaine(s) that I’d tasted, I liked, so it was time to finally track them down!
The signage is for Marronnières, I didn’t see a Mauperthuis sign – but maybe it was there! You notice some small buildings and a large ‘grange’ that has seen better days, but really this domaine is a maze of larger and smaller spaces with many tanks and some barrels. There is a lot of working space here – necessary because the two domaines total 40 hectares.
Laurent works with his wife, Marie-Noëlle, producing 280,000 bottles per year, of which about 80% are exported. Laurent talks super-fast, but I’m sure I caught enough for interest. The pair had worked in the Auxerrois since 1992, eventually buying their second estate, the 21 hectare Domaine des Marronniers in Préhy. Their original Domaine de Mauperthuis adds 19 hectares of vines, and 150 000 bottles per year, producing mainly Bourgogne appellations, plus Irancy, Saint-Bris and Côte d’Auxerre.
In the cuverie they try not to press the grapes too hard, and then run the juice to a tank by gravity – though afterwards it must be pumped into the stainless steel tanks for elevage – not too much lees is used here. The Bourgognes are picked by machine, the Irancy by hand with destemming, cold maceration and remontage but no pigeage.
Laurent on 2013:
“2013 vintage was tough here. But we still produced, from 45 hl/ha, good tasty wines – but not for long keeping like 2010 or 2012. Our vines on the plateau hold more acidity than the hillsides so often need later harvesting – but it’s good for holding onto the minerality.”
I find this/theses domaine(s) a bit of a conundrum – much here is ramshackle but in the process of being updated, some of the cuverie spaces have some odours – of a or b – but the wines are excellent, transcending all my expectations after touring the facility.
This is really one of those addresses whose first wines start out excellent and there seems no dip in the quality.
From behind the Beines hill in the direction of Auxerre. A mix of Portlandean and Kimmerigian here – ‘the same terroir as montmains’ says Laurent.
A deep, ripe and faintly truffled nose – as the name. Quite large, fine and round, silky and with a growing concentration. Fine balance – unexpectedly super!
2013 Mauperthuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay La Grande Reserve
The same parcel as above, but ‘made in the Côte d’Or style’ in barrel, average barrel age being 4 years old. This is a selection of particular vines that Laurent thinks will take the wood better.
Plenty of oak aroma, in the creamy, faintly vanilla style. Very good freshness and intensity, in fact really super intensity that’s aided by a bit of gas. Super. Surprisingly, I find this more direct and less padded than the version without oak.
From the plateau around Préhy. Longer fermentation with local yeasts, in fact the malos usually finish before alcoholic fermentation.
Higher-toned with fresh pear notes. Good energy and concentration – less plush than the Bourgogne but with more energy. Very lovely! Fine finishing intensity too.
2013 Marroniers, Chablis 1er Montmains
Actually in Butteaux and declared as such in 2014. Bottled about 2 weeks ago.
A fine and fresh aromatic. Some complexity too. Here is an insinuating intensity of fine energy and edged with saline notes. – another winner which fades ever so slowly – not fat here, just pure chablis.
2013 Mauperthuis Saint Bris
Elevage only in tank and no malo in 13 – only local yeast.
Clearly sauvignon but with quite some interesting detail and focus. Maybe a little exotic fruit below. Very mineral, growing intensity only then comes some varietal sb flavour but also a little Chablis style lick of salt. Quite long finishing. Im no SB fanboy, but I could almost drink this!
2010 Bourgogne Blanc
Really this is Irancy from below Paradis by Mazelots. 0.17 hectares, hand harvested after the Chablis – but there is no Irancy Blanc AOC.
A very fine nose that may have suggestions of coconut, but also a width and depth of texture – lovely. Round, plenty of weight, it could do with a lick more of acidity, but there’s a Chablis-esque tang of salinity. Long too, very good.