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Christian Moreau – 2013

DSC05822Tasted in Chablis with Fabien Moreau, 8th January 2015. I had a camera ‘card error’ today so all my portraits were lost!

Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils
26 avenue d’Oberwesel
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 86 34
www.domainechristianmoreau.com

Fabien on 2013:
”The yields were depending on the parcel, but the domaine average was 38 hl/ha – though only 25 in Le Clos. It was a difficult season, of-course; 80mm of rain before the harvest and quite warm weather, so perfect conditions for botrytis. This made the grapes very fragile and lose some juice. 2013 was 2.5 days quicker to harvest, but needed to be due to the rot pressure.

“The 2013s are easily accessible wines when compared to 2010 and 2012 but with good balance – some of the smaller wines have a bit of tropical fruit, probably from botrytis but should keep well, if not as long as the 12s…

“In 2014 we looked at the grapes and thought ‘wow’ – but afterwards there was less than we expected due to less juice. Those who harvested before and after the rains had completely different results – the latter with much lower acidity…”

The wines…

One part in bottle, the rest in tank. The last three Grand Crus will be bottled in 3 weeks. None of the tank wines (the last 3 2013s) showed quite the density and focus of those already in bottle, but did show really fine potential, of that I’ve no doubt. A really fine address in 2013.

2013 Chablis
This cuvée corresponds to 1/3rd domaine produce and 2/3rds bought grapes – from long-term contracts. As they have much less villages wine than GC they need more as they sell to 28 countries.
Medium yellow. A fine, direct and transparent nose – lovely. A bit of gas but really excellent intensity and good texture – one of the best villages I’ve tasted on the trip so far. Excellent!

2013 Chablis 1er Vaillons
There are 6 parcels of Vaillons here, and this is an assembly of 5 of them.
A fresh nose, and just a little more floral and intense – perhaps a little oak impression too, but this is very fine. Again some gas, but wait, and the shape comes; round with very good flavour complexity. I really like the finish – very, very good. But in a softer style, like the vintage…

2013 Chablis 1er Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau
Vines that are 80 years old – the ‘sixth’ parcel of Vaillons. There’s not much difference in the elevage between these two, except that some of the barrels are a little younger in this latter wine.
Big, round with a more obvious vanilla-oak component. If the nose is round, the palate is a surprise with its beautiful, lithe, mineral texture and form. Yes there’s oak flavour too, but this curls around your tongue oh-so beautifully – really intense flavour after you swallow – Ouf!
2013 Chablis Vaudesir
Bottled at the beginning of December – DIAM 10 closure.
A deep, deep nose. Some floral notes and deep perfume – only very faintly accented with oak. Another wine that’s more mineral and lithe than I anticipate from the smell. Solid intensity of rock and mineral in the mid-palate and super intensity afterwards too. Very excellent!
2013 Chablis Blanchots
Quite a high parcel, of just 0.1 ha – just 2 barrels worth, so vinified in barrel! Cork sealed.
High-toned and with some quite rip fruit. Very silky but there is still plenty of muscle to flex- just a faint richness and a little agrume fruit too- without obvious reduction. This is excellent.

The following tasted from tank. All were a little diffuse versus the bottled wines – I wouldn’t expect that to be the same later…:

2013 Chablis Valmur
This in tank since mid July.
A deep, faintly reduced, biscuity nose. Round in the mouth, plenty of action here, and again a bit of biscuity flavour. A very modest wine until the mid-palate where there’s super intensity. Modest versus what’s gone before…

2013 Chablis Le Clos
A little tight but delightfully airy and inviting. Some gas but there is plenty of power here, quite some width of flavour too, with just a hint of biscuity reductive flavour again, but a lower level than Valmur. Very fine and detailed finish – lovely.

2013 Chablis Le Clos des Hospices
Lots of depth and again a little biscuity/toasty – also a little diffuse from tank. Bigger in the mouth, rounder and with a more obvious core of ripe fruit – yet gorgeously poised wine. A large boost of flavour before fading in the finish. Just a hint of salt there too. Great potential.

2012 Chablis Valmur
Big, wide aromas of green fruit and a lovely fresh depth. Like a waterfall in the mouth, but a padded waterfall! The flavours leaching from every corner of your mouth, and slowly growing. Superb!

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?