Full, round and very complex aromas – never a classic wine of Chassagne to me – but super it its own way. Lush and rich yet with excellent acidity and energy. Surely some creamy barrel aspects but the layers of flavour are so compelling. Is there anything missing? Perhaps just a hint of Caillerets minerality; with that, it could have been the best 2008 I tasted at home this year.
Gagnard Jean-Noël
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Santenay Clos des Tavannes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a cool yet welcoming range of fruit aromas, perhaps topped with faint violets. Very good flavour that seems quite wide and, with it, a very good persistence. The balance here is just about perfect (for me), tannins only showing themselves if you chew. Lovely wine. As a direct comparison, and as drinkable as this wine is, it falls short of the intensity of the Montrevenots earlier in the week, by comparison seeming more dilute – that doesn’t mean that I like it any less – the aromas improve all the time and are quite a match for the Beaune.
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchot Dessus
Medium lemon yellow. The nose is clean and gives-up a line of bright, ripe yellow fruit; like the Caillerets accented with faint creamy vanilla – though perhaps with less to hold the attention and saying little to me of Chassagne. Slightly fat texture but with very good acidity bubbling below – it’s certainly richer than the Caillerets but not in a negative sense. I find this tighter than my recollection though there’s a concentrated block of good flavour and intensity in the mid-palate – the flavour lasts long too. Very nice wine indeed but, today at least, it can’t match that precocious Caillerets (of which I think I need more!).
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchot Dessus
The nose has width and concentration though the family nose of the other wines is replaced by a much warmer, creamier, less spicy personality. A little fat texture, very good acidity and lovely, lovely, wide flavours that linger very well. A beautiful wine that you would place as a Chassagne without sight of the label.
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Bâtard-Montrachet
This came in at 14° natural – Caroline said they had to react very fast as the sugars really started to take-off. The aromas are much fuller, a little warm fruit, yet it is clearly tight at the core. Good acidity, concentration amd impact – yet it’s still light on its feet. This starts wide and slowly fades – no mid-palate burst, but it is very long finishing.