Wide aromas that are more floral than fruit-driven. Full, with just enough acidity despite the opulence that surrounds it. This was a wow wine for its first couple of years – it is now more subdued, hoping for a far-off day of glory.
As a contrast to the Bienvenues, the Bâtard has deeper but much tighter aromas. In the mouth likewise, it’s hiding it’s complexity. If there is one area where this pulls rank, it is the intensity of the mid-plate, but overall this is showing in a very tight way so gives an ‘easy win’ to the Bienvenues for drinking today.
Golden. Real depth on the nose, but initially it’s a little diffuse – certainly vs the two Domaine Leflaive wines, hints of butterscotch. Where this wine excels is in it’s length, certainly longer than the Leflaive wines, but without their overall class and texture. Still a fantastic wine by ordinary measures.
Medium golden colour. Very high toned and somewhat volatile, estery notes dwarfing a ripe, deeper and interesting core. Initially disappointing in context, but this wine improves leaps and bounds as the volatile edge leaves the scene. Wide, panoramic palate with an extra burst on the mid-palate. Long and very interesting. I don’t think the valatility will aid longevity, but the show’s pretty good today.
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