Entries from 2025

The 165th Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction

By billn on November 17, 2025 #events#the market

Seule - the tiles of the HospicesSale date: 16 November 2025. The following is my summary of the various press releases – as I chose to avoid the crowds !!

On Sunday, 16 November 2025, once again under the hammer of Sotheby’s, the Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction achieved the ‘third highest total in its history.’ No mean feat for a modest volume vintage, the average price per barrel continuing it’s steady rise with a 4.6% increase. The final hammer total was €18.75 million, an aggregate (with commissions) of €20.2 million. For this event, at least, the market for fine Burgundy remains vibrant.

A New Grand Cru and Multiple New Records

Following the Hospice’s full conversion to organic certification in 2024, this year’s sale was marked by the introduction of a 52nd cuvée. Thanks to a donation from the Faiveley family, the auction offered a Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cuvée François Faiveley. The two barrels of this new addition sold for €165,000 and €170,000, respectively.

The white wines provided further fireworks. Two barrels of Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cuvée Dames de Flandres, sold for €400,000 each, establishing a record price for a barrel of this Grand Cru for the second consecutive year.

Albert Bichot: The Perennial Leading Buyer at the Auction
Continuing a tradition of purchases dating back to 1876, Maison Albert Bichot was once again the auction’s leading buyer. The Beaune-based négociant acquired 85.5 lots for a total of €4,516,500. This represented 16% of the total volume and 25% of the total value of the sale, including 22 Grand Cru barrels. Notably, Bichot secured one of the record-breaking barrels of Bâtard-Montrachet. Albéric Bichot praised the quality of the vintage, noting: “The 2025 vintage wines stand out for their balance and energy. They perfectly reflect the rigour and passion applied in the vineyards and cellar alike.

Hospices Perspective

Guillaume Koch, Director of the Hospices Civils de Beaune, expressed his satisfaction with the result: “We are delighted to have just achieved the third-largest sale in our history. Once again, the white wines held some wonderful surprises.

Proceeds from the auction (excluding the Presidents’ Barrel) will fund major investment initiatives, including the construction of a new hospital building in Beaune and the rebuilding of the hospital in Seurre.

Summary of Key Facts and Figures, 2025
  • Aggregate Total: €20,223,043
  • Hammer Total: €18,754,670
  • The Presidents’ Barrel: Sold for €400,000 (Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens & a 1er Cru record)
  • Average price per barrel: €33,930 (up 4.6% on 2024)
  • Average price (Reds): €27,480
  • Average price (Whites): €58,580
  • Average price (Grand Crus): €86,290
  • Average price (Premier Crus): €23,180
  • Total Number of Barrels Auctioned: 428 red, 111 white (including 2 half-barrels), 11 eaux-de-vie
  • Records:
    Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (€400,000);
    Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (€155,000);
    Beaune Blanc Premier Cru Clos des Mouches (€60,000)

friday’s extra taste…

By billn on November 15, 2025 #asides#degustation

AOC Chambolle-Musigny

2014 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
What an open nose, slightly jammy but with a swathe of floral interest too. Filling the mouth, very fluid, melting; currently in a mineral phase, but how complex it is, just a couple of mm of textural cushioning and a tiny austerity that I could easily overcome already. I’m guessing that this was better 5 years but it will be even better again in 5 more – what an excellent, delicious wine, one with a simply panoramic, floral-infused finish. Yes !!
Rebuy – Yes

today’s tasting addendum…

By billn on November 13, 2025 #degustation

2014 Dr Georges2014 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes
A meaty, fresh and still perfumed nose, in fact a perfume that grows in the glass. Wide, energetic, a density that compares to the 2024s that we are tasting, but with just a small suggestion of extra angles to the shape. A more herbed accent to the finkshing flavours – but delicious flavours. A treat…
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A finer grain to this complexity of aroma. Much more direct with a wiry, lithe frame and an intensity of fruit in the middle, which is young but completely accessible. Extra broad finishing – such a large finish, with a suggestion of salinity that adds to the herbed complexity. More than a treat – a baby great wine !!
Rebuy – Yes

2025 Beaujolais Nouveau – good and consistent – easily the best since 2022 !!

By billn on November 11, 2025 #annual laurels#beaujolais

Beaujolais Nouveau 2025 Arrives ...Thursday the 20th of November 2025 will be Beaujolais Nouveau day – so how about a few stats to get us going?

15.5 million bottles of Nouveaux were produced in 2023 versus 16.5 million in 2022 – but in 2024, we saw another drop to 14.3 million. That said, 2024 was a much lower-volume harvest – and 2025 wasn’t much higher. Unfortunately, for comparison’s sake, the 2025 sales volume won’t be known for quite some time…

The main theme for the 2024 vintage were the losses due to mildew. There was a little of that in 2025 too – but in the end, it was the poor weather at flowering time that reduced volume expectations as it resulted in much coulure and millerandes. Volume expectations were further reduced by spells of hot (heatwave) weather, which shrunk the volume of juice in the berries. Like in the other regions of Burgundy, there was rain to contend with at harvest time, but as one grower explained to me, “Yes, but the rain was sufficiently late that the grapes didn’t take up much of it – so it hardly budged the potential harvest volumes.

Most of Nouveau comes from the southerly part of Beaujolais – in the Beaujolais and Beaujolais villages areas. More (Nouveau) wine is generally made here than in the crus – but volumes (and trying to compare them) are, of course, a moving target, varying from producer to producer.

In 2024, France took 62% of the bottles, but the classic Nouveau markets of Japan, the US and the UK, together, still bought 3.2 million bottles (versus 4 million bottles in 2022) out of the total of 5.3 million that were exported. Oh, and 4% of that remains white or rosé today!

And how is this Nouveau vintage?

I’ll make my comments on 2025 Nouveau, aided by some comparison to 2024:

Historically – and I’ve been making this tasting since the 2017 vintage – I’ve seen much more consistent quality in smaller volume vintages than I have in ‘normal’ or ‘generous’ vintages. It seems that many domaines like to play with yield elasticity in the more generous vintages – when it’s quite easy to find lighter, usually less interesting wines.

The quality wasn’t consistent in 2024, and was only rarely great. 2025 is another smaller-volume vintage, but this time the growers have delivered much better consistency – the best that I’ve seen since the 2022 vintage. The 2025 grapes had naturally higher ripeness than in 2024, enabled by earlier harvesting that allowed growers to delay harvesting, should they wish – many domaines recounting that they found it difficult to find the optimum harvest dates. This higher ripeness seems to have worked in our favour with more consistency, and it’s clearly evident in even higher levels in this year’s Beaujolais Villages.

From the 116 wines from 2025 that I tasted, I found many more acceptably delicious, even excellent wines than was the case in 2024 – I even found some great ones!

Very good to excellent wines mean that they are wines where I would be happy to drink at least a glass, or even multiple glasses. This year, it was obvious that there was more consistent quality to be found in the Beaujolais Villages than the Beaujolais, though, like every year, at the expense of drinkability.

Let me explain:

This year, Beaujolais Villages wines show more maturity and their finishing sweetness of fruit is next level – but also the level of tannin in many…. Most of them will start drinking well in the Springtime of 2026 – but on the 20th of November? Les Beaujolais Nouveaux day? – less so.

Did I ever say that I struggle with the concept of Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux? At least in terms of drinking them on the third Thursday of November – of course I did 🙂

Good hunting!

All of the wines were tasted and selected blind. It was only after the tasting that I got a copy of the spreadsheet with the names to match to the numbered bottles:

Great wines for their labels
Antoine Viland Nouveau
Julien Aucagne Villages Nouveau
Jérôme Lacondemine, Cœur de Vigneron Villages Nouveau

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Nouveau
Only one more excellent wine than in 2024 in this section – but fully 61% (36 of 59 samples) of the wines I rated as being of very acceptable quality – that’s way higher than in 2024:
Quentin et Gaëtan Morel, Boder’Wine
Château de L’Eclair
Louis Tête, Le Pot
Les Vins J.M Aujoux, Le Bistrot d’Aujoux
Les Vins J.M Aujoux, Le Cochon Chic
P.Ferraud & Fils, Le Couple
Georges Duboeuf

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Nineteen from 51 wines tasted in this section I thought excellent – 2 were great. That’s in comparison to just 10 in 2024. Likewise, I classed a much higher percentage of 2025s as having very acceptable quality: 38 from 51 or 74% !!
Famille Mélinon
Domaine de Colette, Natur’elle
Maison Piron
Passot Rémy et Fils
Maison Trénel
Domaine de la Plaigne
Domaine du Sallerin, En attendant le Printemps
Aurélie Dunérin
Domaine de Croifolie
Cave du Château des Loges, Le Monde en Fête
Richard Rottiers
Château de Lavernette, Le Jeune
Château de la Terrière
Domaine de la Milleranche
Château de Poncié
Frédéric Perrier
André Colonge & Fils, Gatsby Gamay

The savoury/beer flavours and/or aromas – which I associate with lower sulfur wines that have been open a few hours – or wines in fridge that have been open more than 24 hours – were very common in the flavours of 2024s, but they are much rarer in 2025. I know that some people like beer.

Click on ‘Read More…’ below to see the full notes for the 116 wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted on Wednesday 05th November 2025:
Beaujolais
  Read more..

…an addendum to 04 november…

By billn on November 09, 2025 #degustation

François Mikulski 2025At the end of our tasting of 2024s last week, François served up this beauty. I thought it worthy of a mention.

No wonder François was looking pleased with himself 😉

2019 François Mikulski, Meursault Meix Chavaux
Ooh – what a growth of complex, developed aroma already – such a great nose for a villages. You’d have to wait another 5 or 6 years for this if it was sealed with DIAM – life is about the balance of probabilities, so (personally) I’d rather have 100% confidence in my stored wines and wait an extra few years for the age-related complexity to arrive – your choice may differ. Super scale, and of course, extra generosity to the flavour in this vintage, but what flavour… That’s a great villages…

1998 Chanson, Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on November 03, 2025 #degustation

Chanson 1998 Corton-Charlemagne

Only one weekend wine at home, but still an interesting one:

1998 Chanson, Corton-Charlemagne
A deep golden colour – and from the first sniff, there are clearly no oxidation issues here. The nose is of a rich golden citrus with an undertow of cream and honey – plenty of maturity to these aromas but still not ‘fully mature.’ Wide, lovely texture, the starting flavours majoring on mobility and ripe citrus, and they hold decently well. Wide finishing too, also with the citrus richness here. This is in super shape for the vintage, and I think I’d enjoy it even more with a few more years in a decent cellar. Despite a very Charlemagne structure, my descriptors keep involving the words ‘rich or richness’ but for the vintage, this is very, very good!!
Rebuy – Maybe

Lunchtime Coche…

By billn on November 02, 2025 #degustation

Lunchtime CocheIt is useless to talk about value, or indeed price in general, for the wines of this domaine. But there are lunchtime places in Côte d’Or where these wines are ‘accessible’ for well below retail price.

In this vein, over the last 5 years, I’ve managed to taste the 2017 to (now) 2022, so for your interest:

2022 Coche-Dury, Meursault
A pretty nose of good volume – without the signature reduction of the domaine. A wine with scale and a frame of faintly chalky tannin then a superbly fading diminuendo of flavour. So delicate. Many 2022 whites are tight right now, but I still anticipated more power, rather this is, above all, a simply beautiful Meursault…
Rebuy – Yes (Ignoring the price!!)

The addendum for 30 october…

By billn on October 30, 2025 #degustation

Rougeot Pommard Clos des RosesBecause when you’ve already tasted 26 wines – why not try one from a different vintage?

2022 Rougeot Père et Fils, Pommard Clos des Roses
A width of energetic, already slightly developed nose – super inviting. A wine that melts over the palate, juicy, mineral, melting and even a touch creamy. What a wonderfully delicious wine – bravo…
Rebuy – Yes

overheard in a hotel lobby, yesterday morning…

By billn on October 28, 2025 #degustation

AOC Romanée-Conti

Two UK gentlemen addressing the concierge of a Beaune hotel:

We have a tasting visit booked for tomorrow morning at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. We wonder if you could call them on our behalf to cancel the tasting. Please tell them that we are sorry but that we have to drive to Saint-Émilion…

Of course, the concierge had to then deal with all the other waiting people who told him not to cancel the tasting and that they would go in their place 🙂

Burgundy Report

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