a special treat – weekend wines, week 46 2018

Update 18.11.2018(19.11.2018)billn

Certainly not every year, and hardly every second or third year, but every so often you have to do it properly eh? Or how can you have benchmarks?

A couple of empty soldiers from a tasting chez Bouchard Père which I will write-up in my Bouchard visit report – the others from a very above average Saturday evening with old friends.

2007 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet
Wines like this, whilst definitely a premox gamble, define for me the pinnacle of white burgundy – the best 2007s being easily a match for the best of 2014 – my two modern-day reference points.
Good, deep but young yellow-gold colour. Shimmering, bright, wide, ripe citrus fruit with a touch of creme caramel. Sleek, wide, powerful wine – of perfectly fine texture and the simply amazing combination of deep, ripe fruit and a waterfall of mineral edginess. I can drink white of any age with great enjoyment, but here is a wine that defines young. So long, shimmering with energy – just like the nose – still with that caramel from the nose rounding out the finishing flavours. Despite the caramel, great wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Comtes Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Oof that’s deep colour. The nose is sleek, with plenty of volume but the aromas remain compact and never fully open. The palate reflects the nose; sleek, great drive, perfect silken texture. It’s a big wine, amply concentrated, but like the nose, and quite rare for a 2000, hardly ever gets out of second gear. It’s a beautiful glass but hardly offering 40% of the potential that I see in reserve. Clean, concentrated but ungiving.
Rebuy – Maybe

1996 Joseph Drouhin, Musigny
Yes! What a nose! Open, complex, floral and with beautiful fruit – young but offering everything on a plate – brilliant. In the mouth you would be forgiven, despite fine drive and energy, for not spotting this as a 1996, the acidity is perfectly covered. Complex, fresh, giving, open, just about all that you wish for – except – any overt maturity. Despite it’s bravado and a peacock’s tail of a finish, this is still a bit of a baby, but what a baby. Great wine again!
Rebuy – Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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