Weeks 34-36, 2018. Actually a few wines may have slipped through, but such is life. I’ve also (so far) gone through a Baker’s Dozen of 1998s with more to come, but they will be written up, with a profile of the vintage, in my September report – due out before the end of October.
Whizzing through these; The last days have seen two cremants from Louis Bouillot – the blanc the blanc and the blanc de noirs – both are delicious and advantageously priced vs Champagnes – I’m generally the blanc de blanc type, and I had no change in preference here! This weekend saw two Chablis from Julien Brocard – these are his (Demeter) biodynamic wines, with elevage in concrete ‘eggs.’ The 2015 1er Côte de Lechet, DIAM5 sealed, was more aromatically tropical than the 2017 ‘Boissonneuse’ villages which has already moved onto the DIAM10 closure. The 2015 with more depth, weight and silk to the flavours, the 2017 with a modest extra freshness. The 2015 is better, but not a massive margin – these Brocards are not cheap but it’s a fabulous boutique range with beautiful packaging.
Of-course from another class was the 2012 Jean Chartron, Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers – and so it should have been, a relatively restrained nose but what length and presence – simply a wow wine – a privilege… The magnum of 1981 Clavelier Corton-(Clos)Rognets was fresh, robust and very clean – I suppose it had been filtered, but that ensured we could enjoy it over two nights – it had become musty by the third. The 1999 Remoriquet was excellent, earthy, ‘graphitey’ and complex – super – and a relief as the previous bottle was not up to par. 3 or 4 more remain in the cellar. My second 2016 Diconne Auxey-Duresses VV was just as good as the first a month or two back – delicious, classy white burgundy and a bargain too.